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Grade 15 on good solid granite (superior to Far Lands on nearby Pt 1646), 140 vertical meters. Access up the ridge E of lake 1023 from the top of the waterfall route (Moirs), or with more difficulty (thick steep bush), directly from lake outlet NW of pt 881. Start climb through lower cliffband via a subtle rib, just right of prominent white pillar & R facing corner. Cross terrace and continue up near right-hand edge/crest of spire. Shortly, a crack steepens into a dike; at this point traverse right, around rib to easier weaknesses. Through steepest section, weave up R side of crest, then back L to nice corner cracks, before scramble to top. Descend easily (visible from approach) via notch to N (toward true summit) and then traversing NW.
Ruari Macfarlane, March 2020