Homer Saddle Crag

(10 routes)

Located on the left-hand side of the track just before the Homer Saddle, this crag contains a mixture of bolted and natural routes around 10-20m metres long. The top of the crag gives a panoramic view of the Upper Hollyford and Cleddau Valleys.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1300m
Aspect: 
North East
Lat/Lon: 
-44.759550000000, 167.980215000000
NZMS260: 
D40 128 933
Topo50: 
CB08 027 315
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
2 Tunnel Vision 20 30m
0
wire representing trad
The shady side of this block. Facing the lowest block climb the arête to a diagonal break. Follow this to a vertical crack then up left arête to top.
Steve Carr, Rob Wigley, Feb 1999.
3 Tele-freak 20 30m
0
wire representing trad
Up centre of block then through overhang to spike at top.
Steve Carr, Rob Wigley, Feb 1999.
4 Just Mist 26
0
wire representing trad
The overhanging right-hand arête on the lower block: steep face climbing followed by a desperate hand crack.
Chris Plant, 1994.
5 I Like Horses 18 ,
0
wire representing trad
Climbs the face and arête of the lowest block as you approach the saddle. Start at the metal stake, climb a short crack on the left, move right and climb up to the arête. Continue to a belay on the ‘horse’.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mYes
 Climbs the face and arête of the lowest block as you approach the saddle. Start at the metal stake, climb a short crack on the left, move right and climb up to the arête. Continue to a belay on the ‘horse’.
20mYes
  Climb the crack system and right to finish up the arête. Not a route for short people with weak hearts.
Dave Vass, Andi the Swiss, Dec 1989.
6 I am a Sensitive Artist 23
0
wire representing trad
On the highest block on the left just as you reach Homer Saddle.
Dave Vass, Mar 1991.
7 Henry 21
1.02
wire representing trad
On the highest block on the left just as you reach Homer Saddle.
Dave Vass, Dec 1989.
8 Dogknotting in Quezaltenago 24
0
wire representing trad
Two short pitches of 22 and 24.
Dave Vass, Mar 1991.
9 Wide Cracks 19
1.02
wire representing trad
16 and 19 The two central cracks that split the wall. Interesting climbing with good protection.
Graeme Dingle.
10 Black Steel in a World of Chaos 26
0
Colin Pohl, Feb 1991.
11 The Odyssey 25
2.01
A steep wall.
Dave Vass, Mar 1990.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies