Little Babylon

(38 routes)

pdf guide can be purchased and downloaded from http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/cleddau-valley-cragging

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Ulysses 24
0
Left of Upskirt Dreams.
Owen Davies Feb 2013
Upskirt Dreams 26
0
Far left of crag. Traverse in from left and climb behind the waterfall.
Zdenek Racuk
Little Lucifer 25 ,23 20m
0
Short and crimpy.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12510mNo
 Short and crimpy.
22310mNo
 One hard move.
Troy Mattingley, Thomas Adamson, Jon Sedon, 2007
Solitude 25 25m
3
Climb the long face to the cave.
Brooke Sandahl
Multitude 21 9m
1.02
4bolts
Nice sequencey climbing with hard last move to jug.
Erin Stewart 2014
Bish Bosh Bash 23 ,27 22m
1.02
Cruxy.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12312mNo
 Cruxy.
22710mNo
 Extension.
Al Ritchie 2007.
Rua Tahi 23 ,25 24m
1.02
Everybody's warmup.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12312mNo
 Everybody's warmup.
22512mNo
 Extension. Wander up ledges to hard bulge.
Jon Sedon, Max Farr 2007
Traverse of the Titans 27 30m
2.01
Climb first pitch of Rua Tahi and the head off rightwards up the hanging slab to the top of Tantalus.
Derek Thatcher 2013
F$#k I'm Awesome 28 30m
2.01
The hard version of Traverse of the Gods. After first pitch of RT climb hard boulder at top of Thor's Hammer.
Derek Thatcher, 2013.
Ivan's Project 35
0
Thor's Hammer 34 18m
0
9bolts
Same start as Xerxes, after crux do hard boulder problem.
Project
Xerxes 30 20m
3
10bolts
Climb the diagonal line. Power endurance.
Derek Thatcher, 2008.
No Country For Old Men 29
0
9bolts
Bruce Dowrick
Hey Zeus 29 18m
1.02
Start up No Country and cross into top of Thor's Hammer.
Jon Sedon, 2008
Hercules 29 18m
3
9bolts
Powerful climbing on big holds.
Matt Evrard
Tigerblood 33 30m
3
17bolts
Climb Hercules and rest then up headwall through bulges to the left of Xena.
Derek Thatcher, 2013
Xena 33 30m
3
16bolts
Climb Hercules then straight up through the big roof. Equipped by Derek Thatcher.
Chris Muench, 2008
Tantalus 29 30m
3
A long journey.
Thomas Adamson, 2008
Aaron and Sally's Route 35 30m
2.01
One of the first lines bolted. Start up ITP to very hard boulder and dyno, then do crux of Xena.
Project
International Turkey Patrol 24 18m
1.02
Up then traverse left.
Tom Hoyle, 2007.
Fly My Pretties 26 18m
0
Start up ITP and link into Jugular.
Kester Brown, 2008.
Jugular 25 18m
1.02
Up the Jugs to single ring. Better to finish at Moses anchor.
Thomas Adamson, 2007.
Moses 27 ,30 26m
2.01
2bolts
Climb up to little hollow and then left out undercling band.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12720mNo
 Climb up to little hollow and then left out undercling band.
2306m2No
 Extension to the trapeze.
Jon Sedon, 2007
Prowess 29
0
Moses and link in Giving Tree.
Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2008
The Giving Tree 31 25m
0
Climb up to left side of prow via a good rest.
Thomas Adamson, 2007.
Colossus 33
0
Derek Thatcher
Cyrus the Great 30 23m
3
Thomas Adamson, 2007.
Cyrus The Virus 32 27m
2.01
Extension to Cyrus. Alright rest at Cyrus anchor then fingery V10.
Derek Thatcher, 2009.
Blood Meridian 32 25m
2.01
Climb through the red streak.
Derek Thatcher, 2009.
Sick Bitch 29
0
Bruce Dowrick, 2007.
Crystal Method 27
2.01
Bruce Dowrick, 2007.
Hellboy 28
2.01
Jon Sedon, 2007.
Aphrodite 28
0
Climb multiple bulge features just right of Hellboy.
Zac Orme
Algorithm 26
1.02
Bruce Dowrick, 2012.
Mica 26
0
Jon Sedon, 2012.

Places

Type Title Edit link
Wall Top Cave (3 routes)

Comments

if only there was a colour coded route topo to gaze and wonder upon climbing all the amazing routes this crag has to offer....