Chillout Ledge

(8 routes)

The Chillout Ledge is a junction point for many routes and a comfy place to hang out. It’s a 40m rap to the ground. The routes above the ledge are steep well-protected sport climbs. You may need to throw the climber a line when they are lowering off the upper pitches, to pull them back in, and it may be better to downclimb to retrieve gear.

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

The most direct access to the Chillout Ledge is from the Rung Ladder.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
8 Akathisia 20 ,28 24m
0
5bolts
Five bolts and a no hands rest at the end.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12012m5No
 

Five bolts and a no hands rest at the end.

22812mNo
 

Straight up from belay to the anchors up and left of Buster Gonad.
The route was lovingly bolted by Paul Rogers. It is possible to climb the route as one long pitch.

Mayan Gobat-Smith, Jan 2006.
9 Buster Gonad 26 24m
3
9bolts wire representing trad
A wild ride from start to finish 26m. bolts and CD’s from #1 to 3.5. Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps!
Paul Rogers, Steve Walker, April 1993.
10 Insane Automatism 28 23m
0
From the ledge, traverse right 2m then climb the corner and arête. This line joins Buster Gonad for 1 bolt then climbs straight up through the cruxy dyke feature.
Derek Thatcher, 2005.
11 Bus t’Milford 26 18m
3
8bolts
This route takes the line of pockets out right. Crimpy moves past the first bolt lead to a steep ramp and pocketed headwall. A popular test piece.
Chris Plant, February 1994
Bust a Drive-by 31
3
Climb Bus t’Milford, get a good rest, then do a steep and tricky boulder problem. The climax is a drive-by dyno for the very lip of the crag.
Derek Thatcher, 2006
Bus t’Milford Direct Start 28
2.01
15bolts
Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2007
Liquid Sky 31
1.02
Joshua Jacobsen-Grocott, 2013
13 Contact Neurosis 17,17,29 58m
2.01
23bolts
From ground level scamper up the slab and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight metres before moving right to reach a sloping ledge. This and the next pitch can be climbed as a single pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11725m9No
 

From ground level scamper up the slab and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight metres before moving right to reach a sloping ledge. This and the next pitch can be climbed as a single pitch.

21715m4No
 

Delightful face climbing that steepens and moves left.

32918m10No
 

Moves from the ledge lead to a fingery section then generous jugs. Either bust out long moves ape style, or sort out a technical solution on intermediates. Funky top-out over the lip.

P1 & 2: Paul Rogers, Toni Bryant, 1994; P3 Andy Cockburn, 2003
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
39c24ffb-a7b7-4a78-900d-beb3a154b3de