Chillout Ledge

(10 routes)

The Chillout Ledge is a junction point for many routes and a comfy place to hang out. It’s a 40m rap to the ground. The climbs up the steep wall above are well-protected sport and mixed routes, and all have lower-off chains. There is a rescue rope on the ledge for pulling the climber back in. To avoid dropping your mate, consider tying the loose end of the lead rope to the belayer or the chain.
Routes 19 to 24 can be reached from the Chillout Ledge by the Chillout Ledge Traverse #2.

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

The most direct access to the Chillout Ledge is from the Rung Ladder.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
14 Akathisia 20,28 24m
0
10bolts
Bolted with tender loving care by Paul Rogers. It is possible to climb the route as one long pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12012m5No
 

A no-hands rest at the end.

22812m5No
 

Straight up from the belay to the anchors up and left of Buster Gonad.

Mayan Gobat-Smith, January 2006
15 Buster Gonad 26 26m
3
9bolts wire representing trad
A wild ride from start to finish. Take bolts and cams from #1 to 3.5. Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. A real cornucopia with pockets, underclings, lay-backing and crimps!
Paul Rogers, Steve Walker, April 1993
16 Insane Automatism 28 23m
0
10bolts
From the ledge, traverse right 2m then climb the corner and arête. This line joins Buster Gonad for one bolt then climbs straight up through the cruxy dyke feature.
Derek Thatcher, 2005
17 Bus t’Milford 27 18m
3
8bolts
This route takes the line of pockets out right. Crimpy moves past the first bolt lead to a steep ramp and pocketed headwall. A popular test piece.
Chris Plant, February 1994
18 Bust a Drive-by 31 26m
3
13bolts wire representing trad
Climb Bus t’Milford, get a good rest, then do a steep and tricky boulder problem. The climax is a drive-by dyno for the very lip of the crag.
Derek Thatcher, 2006
20 Bus t’Milford Direct Start 28 26m
2.01
15bolts
Start from the ledge to the right of the belay at the top of the second pitch of Contact Neurosis. From the belay head straight up, then left. Join Bus t’Milford at the dyke feature.
Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2007
22 Liquid Sky 31
1.02
From the Contact Neurosis belay, climb the beautiful streak via three crimpy bouldery sequences that lead to a dynamic finish in an outrageous position.
Joshua Jacobsen-Grocott, 2013
19 Contact Neurosis 16,18,29 52m
3
23bolts
From ground level scamper up the slab and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight metres before moving right to reach a sloping ledge. This and the next pitch can be climbed as a single pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11620m9No
 

From ground level scamper up the slab and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight metres before moving right to reach a sloping ledge. This and the next pitch can be climbed as a single pitch.

21814m4No
 

Step right, then delightful face climbing to a belay under the big roof.

32918m10No
 

Moves from the ledge lead to a fingery section then generous jugs. Either bust out long moves like a gibbon, or sort out a technical solution on intermediates. Ends with a funky top-out over the lip.

P1 & 2: Paul Rogers, Toni Bryant, 1994; P3 Andy Cockburn, 2003
26 Chill-Out Ledge Traverse #2 8 12m
0
wire representing trad
Reach the Chillout Ledge from the top of the second pitch of Contact Neurosis by traversing left and down a metre or so, then up a short crack to the ledge.
21 Psychonaut 32
2.01
6bolts
Steep roof to the right of Contact Neurosis with two hard boulder problems. The first one features a throw off a pinky mono undercling!
Derek Thatcher, 2011
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
39c24ffb-a7b7-4a78-900d-beb3a154b3de