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The Right-hand Wall

Type
Part of

tba

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
2 2Fire, 27 27 0m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 27
  • 7

Climbs the middle of the triangular upper wall above the big corner between the walls. Hard, technical moves right off the sloping ramp, so make sure your belayer is in a position to give a soft catch. First climbed at grade 25, a crucial hold has since fallen off. The route is now quite a bit harder and with big fall potential. Could do with rebolting. Equipper: Tom Hoyle.


 Smoke, 27 27
0

  • P1
  • 27

Right of Fire


4 4Euphrates, 29 29 20m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 29
  • 20m
  • 7

An accessible entry point to climbing on the right-hand wall, relatively speaking. Brilliant technical climbing on relatively good holds leads to a crux right where it hurts. Belay from the ramp as for The Obvious Weakness. Equipper: Bruce Dowrick.


5 5Pegasus 18m 7
3

  • P1
  • 18m
  • 7

Open project above Euphrates through the blank looking wall.


 The Random Element, 27 27 15m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 27
  • 15m
  • 6

 The Whore of Babylon, 26 26 16m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 26
  • 16m
  • 6

Start at the base of the big orange streak and head diagonally left to a big jug; committing moves to the break then up to a crux finish. Great friction moves!


 Nebuchadnezzar, 35 35 25m 8
3

  • P1
  • 35
  • 25m
  • 8

 Red Dawn, 35 35 25m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 35
  • 25m
  • 8

Belay at Rata tree. Straight up from tree; easy start then full-bore the whole way.


 Rage, 30 30 18m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 30
  • 18m
  • 6

. From Fuel belay clip bolt out left then lower to good holds to start. A high step and then some. From rest at break go right to bolt then left through one more hard section


 Sinanthropus, 28 28 18m 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 28
  • 18m
  • 4

Move straight up from belay. Think carefully belaying as there is big whipper potential.


 Fuel, 29 29 40m 9
3

  • P1
  • 29
  • 24m
  • 9

Move up and right from Rata tree. Pull through a series of left-hand underclings and sidepulls!


  • P2
  • 26
  • 16m
  • 3
  • Trad

Interesting moves after first bolt, leading up and left. Some natural gear (1-3 friends) can be placed between the second and third bolts.


 Project 20m 7
0

  • P1
  • 20m
  • 7

Go right off Fuel belay and weave your way up the wall to a desperate finish. Mayan


 Hammurabi, 32 32 24m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 32
  • 24m
  • 6

Starting from just right of Fuel, then finishing with the last bolt of Katalepsis.


 Katalepsis, 32 32 20m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 32
  • 20m
  • 7

Belay out right by small tree (1½, 3 friend). Seven hard under-clings in a row!


 Requiem, 30 30 26m 6
3

  • P1
  • 30
  • 26m
  • 6

Hard moves off the deck lead up and eventually the line tends left following some occasional holds to the Fuel belay.


 9b Mudda F#$&@r, 37 37 25m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 37
  • 25m
  • 6

Start up Requiem and go straight up to the anchor. The hardest project that I know of that will go. In 2005 when I bolted it there where 6 moves I could not do but I could hold each position, move my feet and slap near the hold.


Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
d7d840fd-bee9-48c6-b9f7-57cf8846b24c