The Left-hand Wall

Type

Part of

To the right of the base of Leftism is a dry cave complete with seating (the Boardroom) and a ledge leading right (the Boardwalk) from where the routes right of the Groper are accessed.
It is Possible to traverse from the third pitch of Leftism all the way to the Fire setion of the wall along "The Path" (grade 10) at 3/4 hieght, givig access to the other routes and descent options.

Aspect

West

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Leftism, 23	23	70m	5	2.01
P1 18 20m 1 Trad In fine weather the afternoon breeze blows the waterfall across the first two pitches so it’s best to get onto this early. Take a rack. Begins at an overhanging corner beneath steep rock in the bush right of the waterfall. Up this to bushy left-trending ramp past bolt then up clean wall on gear and a bolt to ledge under roof. P2 22 25m 1 Trad Left to bolt, up crack (wires) then onto face past three bolts and into obvious crack (gear) to natural pro belay in corner behind Totara tree. P3 15 10m Trad Continue up crack. P4 23 15m 5 Trad Move left up slab then up corner past five bolts. To descend from top rap down and right to DBB 20m (top of Tufa Dub) then 55m to the ground.
	Surface Tension		30m	10	0
P1 30m 10 Begin at the belay of the 2nd pitch of Leftism; directly up past ten bolts to belay. To escape, climb across the slab to the rap at the top of Leftism (one bolt and easy).
	Babbleon, 25	25		6	2.01
P1 23 6 Trad Start halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay ring on ledge. Move left 3m to bolt then up past six bolts to small roof and onto belay. P2 25 Trad Continue up steep country to belay.
4	4Tufa Dub, 24	24	50m	8	3
P1 23 25m 7 Possibly the best route on the cliff, but you’ll have to climb it to find out. Straight up from the belay, following the line of bolts. Pumpy. Straight up from the belay, following the line of bolts. Pumpy. P2 24 25m 8 More of the same fantastic climbing, including the famous tufa.
	Epifright, 26	26	71m		0
P1 21 16m Trad Start up Tufa Dub for three bolts then move right along break, cams and wires, before heading up to belay. P2 23 15m Trad Climb the tree to the very top, placing cams and wires. Swing onto the rock and climb roof crack! P3 20 15m Trad weave up face to belay on natural gear. P4 26 25m Trad Fantastic face climbing all the way to the top of the crag.
	The Groper, 24	24	40m		1.02
P1 17 12m Start at the first bolt along the ledge. Move up on good holds to a small overlap. Tend left before stepping onto the Ledge-end. P2 24 28m Traverse left up into the white corner, tackling the steep bulges as they move left. A no-hands rest awaits at half height before a devious top-out. Belay out right.
8	8PSI, 26	26	73m	6	3
P1 21 12m 6 Move right from belay chain on solid holds to flake and overlap. Head right then straighten up on some slopers and hit the end of the ledge. P2 25 26m Climb directly up the overhanging groove. P3 23 15m Move left and up on massive holds through the roof then straight through the headwall. P4 26 20m Straight up to the crimpy headwall.
10	10Project Aqua, 24	24	60m	7	3
P1 24 20m 7 Start at the small right-facing corner/alcove 20 metres to the right of the cave, under the rimu. Up and right to a bolt then follow four more to the ledge. P2 24 20m 6 Tricky, then pumpy. P3 24 20m 5 More of the same, not that you'll mind. Rap off.
	Nature’s Melody, 23	23		7	0
P1 21 2 Starts about ten metres left of Birdsong. Starts on a ledge with a large hanging block above. A couple of cams protect moves up to the first bolt. Climb past the second bolt then traverse out left to the double bolt belay. P2 23 7 Straight up groove then pull through the overhang to belay.
	The Right Groove, 24	24		7	0
P1 24 7 A variation to the second pitch of Nature’s Melody. After clipping the third bolt of NM follow the right-tending groove on fat slopers to belay.
	Birdsong, 26	26	55m	3	2.01
P1 19 20m Trad Take some extra wires for the first pitch. Starting beneath the prominent rata tree, climb initial bulge onto slab then up corner system left of the buttress. P2 23 15m 3 . From belay climb past 3 bolts, then over bulge; quick moves will see you to the top. P3 26 20m Climb rightwards, following your nose (and the bolts). A 55m rap will get you to the ground.
	Twotogo, 25	25	58m	5	2.01
P1 22 22m 5 Trad Take some extra wires for the first pitch. . Starting from slab right of Birdsong, move up face past 4 bolts to the top end of the large left-tending crack; clip the bolt over the bulge before cranking to the belay. P2 25 20m Continue straight up to below the roof and then move left and up steep corner on good holds. P3 23 16m 2 A devious move right after the second bolt then up through the corner.
	Dream Liberator, 24	24	44m	2	2.01
P1 16 16m 1 Trad Starting on the slabs below the main corner system tend up and left to single bolt and belay P2 22 16m 2 Trad Move up past two bolts to overlap. Pull through overlap then tend left into small alcove below roof section. P3 24 12m Powerful moves on good holds through overhanging corner lead to steep face climbing and belay out to the right.
	Fading Grail, 25	25	47m		0
P1 16 15m . Starting on slabs below the main corner P2 25 32m Head straight up the steepening wall before a short slabby move leads to a dyno finish.
	Monsoon, 19	19		3	2.01
P1 19 3 Starting on slab below the main corner climb a slab past three bolts to small overlap. Cut loose through the overlaps then directly up to the top.
22	22The Obvious Weakness, 26	26	36m	8	3
P1 17 18m 8 Directly off the ledge, just right of the corner. P2 26 18m 7 Right-tending diagonal corner and roof; big holds and pumpy. A 35m rap to the ground.
	The Fire Escape, 21	21	25m		1.02
P1 21 25m From belay at the top of The Obvious Weakness scramble left to continuation of corner above; bolted.

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

22e8eef6-5e05-44f1-8625-d6f38d428362