The Left-hand Wall

In fine weather the afternoon breeze blows the waterfall across the first two pitches so it’s best to get onto this early. Take a rack.
Begins at an overhanging corner beneath steep rock in the bush right of the waterfall. Up this to bushy left-trending ramp past bolt then up clean wall on gear and a bolt to ledge under roof.

Left to bolt, up crack (wires) then onto face past three bolts and into obvious crack (gear) to natural pro belay in corner behind Totara tree.

Continue up crack.

Move left up slab then up corner past five bolts.
To descend from top rap down and right to DBB 20m (top of Tufa Dub) then 55m to the ground.

Start halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay ring on ledge.
Move left 3m to bolt then up past six bolts to small roof and onto belay.

Continue up steep country to belay.

Possibly the best route on the cliff.
Start halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay ring on ledge.

Straight up from the belay, following the line of bolts. Pumpy.

More of the same fantastic climbing.
From the top there is an easy scramble left past a bolt to the top of the 3rd pitch of Leftism.

Start up Tufa Dub for three bolts then move right along break, cams and wires, before heading up to belay.

Climb the tree to the very top, placing cams and wires. Swing onto the rock and climb roof crack!

weave up face to belay on natural gear.

Fantastic face climbing all the way to the top of the crag.

Start at the first bolt along the ledge. Move up on good holds to a small overlap. Tend left before stepping onto the Ledge-end.

Traverse left up into the white corner, tackling the steep bulges as they move left. A no-hands rest awaits at half height before a devious top-out. Belay out right.

Move right from belay bolt on solid holds to flake and overlap. Tend right before straightening on slopers to the Ledge-end.

Climb directly up the overhanging groove.

. Move left and up on massive holds through the roof then straight through the headwall.

The next route right of Lodge Loafers; start at the small right-facing corner/alcove 20m right of the cave under the Rimu tree.
Up and right to a bolt then follow four more to the ledge.

Tricky, then pumpy.

More of the same; rap off.

Starts about ten metres left of Birdsong.
Starts on a ledge with a large hanging block above. A couple of cams protect moves up to the first bolt. Climb past the second bolt then traverse out left to the double bolt belay.

Straight up groove then pull through the overhang to belay.

Take some extra wires for the first pitch.
Starting beneath the prominent rata tree, climb initial bulge onto slab then up corner system left of the buttress.

. From belay climb past 3 bolts, then over bulge; quick moves will see you to the top.

Climb rightwards, following your nose (and the bolts).
A 55m rap will get you to the ground.

Take some extra wires for the first pitch.
. Starting from slab right of Birdsong, move up face past 4 bolts to the top end of the large left-tending crack; clip the bolt over the bulge before cranking to the belay.

Continue straight up to below the roof and then move left and up steep corner on good holds.

A devious move right after the second bolt then up through the corner.

Starting on the slabs below the main corner system tend up and left to single bolt and belay

Move up past two bolts to overlap. Pull through overlap then tend left into small alcove below roof section.

Powerful moves on good holds through overhanging corner lead to steep face climbing and belay out to the right.

. Starting on slabs below the main corner

Head straight up the steepening wall before a short slabby move leads to a dyno finish.

. Directly off the ledge, just right of the corner.

Right-tending diagonal corner and roof; big holds and pumpy.
A 35m rap to the ground..