The Cleddau valley lies between the Darran and Wick Mountains and within it lie the final kilometres of the Milford Highway, winding its way toward Milford Sound. The Cleddau and its large tributaries, the Tutoko, Donne and Gulliver Rivers, contain a number of long alpine routes and some well-developed crags that remain dry in all but the heaviest of Fiordland storms.
The highway emerges from Homer Tunnel into the South Branch.
The West Branch, gives access to Ada, Access and Odyssey Peaks.
Further downstream is the Chasm, a deep narrow ravine water-worn into the rocks. Sheerdown is accessed from here. Downstream from the Chasm’s walkways and information signs a small unmarked track leads to a beautiful swimming hole for those willing to brave the cold water.
Several kilometres on down the highway are twin one-lane bridges. The first marks the start of the Grave-Talbot Route which follows the Gulliver River for a few kilometres before climbing up into the Esperance valley. The second bridge crosses the Donne River.
The Tutoko valley holds a wealth of climbs and provides access to the giants of Grave, Tutoko and Madeline.
|Reference||Title||Grade||Length||Quality||Bolts||Gone||Natural pro||Edit link|
|7 Nation Army||20||
13 Pitches. The route follows the striking shoot or ‘white stripe’ of a slip, visible from Chasm Crag carpark, to the right of the Charismatic Wall off of Pk 1665. They only placed two bolts on lead to protect the second pitch, where there was insufficient natural protection, and about five more bolts on the descent for rappelling. 7 Nation Army starts up vegetated slabs with no natural protection, but as Charlie and Mike climbed higher, the rock quality improved to a sharper white quartzite with good edges.
Charlie Long and Mike Buchanan, Mar 2014
|Crag||Chasm Crag (35 routes)|
|Crag||Babylon (42 routes)|
|Crag||Little Babylon (38 routes)|
|Crag||Ferry Terminal Slab (1 route)|
|Mountain||Pk 1655 (1 route)|
|Mountain||Access Pk (2 routes)|
|Mountain||Mt Ada (1 route)|
|Mountain||Odyssey Pk (2 routes)|
|Mountain||Sheerdown Pk (4 routes)|
|Valley||Gulliver River (1 route)|
|Valley||Donne River (0 routes)|
|Valley||Tutoko River (0 routes)|