Right Side | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Approach

From the head of the creek-bed, head straight into the bush to reach a brown slab. This is the base of High Ideals and Crazy Dreams.
To reach routes 9 to 12, head seven metres up High Ideals and Crazy Dreams, then traverse sharply left to two separate belay anchors. The Vertically Challenged anchor is higher and further left. These are great wet weather options.
Routes 15 to 19 are climbed from the Waterfall Ledge at far right end of the crag, which is accessed from a short track at the left end of the hedge under the waterfall.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
9	9Au Naturel, 22	22	18m		1.02
P1 22 18m Trad The shallow corner and prow left of Vertically Challenged. Take small wires and cams to #2. This route requires good and quick runner placement. Use the belay on Vertically Challenged.
10	10Vertically Challenged, 25	25	18m	8	2.01
P1 25 18m 8 Straight up the wall moving right at the second bolt. Back left at the third, using a longer clip to protect moves over the roof. Up on good holds to the crux, ring bolt, then the headwall to finish.
11	11Fridge Lifter, 27	27	30m	9	1.02
P1 27 30m 9 Don’t put your back out.
12	12One Way Ticket, 24	24	25m	9	3
P1 24 25m 9 Trad Start as for the previous climb, then move left to the belay ledge where you will find a single bolt. Fantastic face climbing leads to the roof. Place a #1 cam in the horizontal break to protect the initial steep moves below the roof proper. Turn the roof and climb the dyke above to finish as for the previous route.
13	13High Ideals and Crazy Dreams, 22	22	34m	2	3
This was the first climb completed at the crag, and it’s well worth doing. Take wires and cams to #3. P1 19 15m Trad Climb the left-facing corner and then rock over on good holds to the right. Stack some good gear into the horizontal break. Steep moves up and left lead to a lay-away, follow this trending right to a small belay ledge at the bottom right of an obvious flake. P2 22 19m 2 Trad Move left and crank the flake. Laybacks left lead to a dyke, which is climbed past two bolts to a belay bay. A 30-metre abseil will put you back on the ground.
14	14Roaming Warrior, 25	25	20m	7	0
P1 25 20m 7 Relatively easy climbing to the crux, then do a hard boulder problem involving minimal feet and big moves.
15	15Piropiro, 26	26	27m	9	2.01
P1 26 27m 9 Starts off the left end of the ledge behind the 9 hedgerow.
16	16Day Tripper, 24	24	25m	5	3
P1 24 25m 5 Trad A right-facing pink and white streaked corner offers steep technical climbing on perfect stone. Start at the jutting block. Climb the slab past two bolts on good incuts then move left and up the slab to the corner. Climb the corner above to a good rest then up the steep wall to exit right.
17	17Doobious Tendencies, 27	27	25m	7	1.02
P1 27 25m 7 Weave through the scoop and over onto the ladder-like slab which will escalate you to the challenging top face. Weasel your way through the edges to a climatic finish. Take 3–4 long quickdraws, as well as the usual short ones.
18	18Stoned Immaculate, 23	23	25m	9	1.02
P1 23 25m 9 This is the first climb on the right. Up the steep wall past three bolts. A tricky rock-over move then leads you up and right into a left-facing corner. Steep cranky moves to finish up a slab.
19	19On the Perimeter, 23	23	23m	4	0
P1 23 23m 4 Trad Take some long runners and small fingers.

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies, Kate Sinclair, Ivan Vostinar, Tom Riley

UUID

37246e34-ec2c-4fc7-b4cc-eb4cef03e368