About 60m from the left end. To reach Au Natural, Vertically challenged & One Way Ticket, head seven metres up High Ideals and Crazy Dreams, then traverse sharply left to two separate belay anchors. The Vertically Challenged anchor is higher and further left. These are great wet weather options.
The far right end of the crag (right of Piropiro) is accessed from a short track at the left end of the hedge under the waterfall.
Type:
Wall
Access:
This is accessed via Track Two, or by following the base of the crag for 60m from the left end. A large area of water-worn boulders opens on your right, this is a good place to scope the of climbs.
The climbs are reached by heading straight into the bush at the head of the creek-bed, to a brown slab.
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Edit link | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Au Natural | 22 | 18m |
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Small wires and CD’s to#2. The shallow corner and prow left of VC. This route requires good and quick runner placement. Use the belay on VC.
Hugh Barnard, Paul Rogers, 1993.
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| 24 | Vertically challenged | 25 | 18m |
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8 |
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Straight up the wall moving right at the second bolt. Back left at the third, using a longer clip to protect moves over the roof. Up on good holds to the crux, ring bolt, then the headwall to finish
Kevin Nickolas, Paul Rogers, Jan 1995.
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| 25 | One Way Ticket | 24 | 25m |
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9 |
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one #1 CD. Start as for the previous climb, then move left to belay ledge; single bolt. Fantastic face climbing leads to the roof; a small CD in a horizontal break protects the initial steep moves below the roof. Crank the roof and dyke above to finish as for the previous climb.
Paul Rogers, Steve Walker, 1993.
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| 26 | High Ideals and Crazy Dreams | 19 ,22 | 34m |
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2 |
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This was the first climb completed at the crag and a must do. Two bolts, wires and CD’s to #3.
Climb the left-facing corner and then rock-over on good holds to the right. Stack some good gear into the horizontal break. Steep moves up and left lead to a lay-away, follow this trending right to a small belay ledge at the bottom right of an obvious flake.
Paul Rogers, Steve Walker, 1993.
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| Piropiro | 26 | 27m |
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Starts off the left end of the ledge behind the hedgerow.
Sally Carter, Aaron Ford, Apr 2004
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| 28 | Day Tripper | 24 | 25m |
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5 |
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five bolts and a rack of wires, CD’s to #2. A right-facing pink and white streaked corner offers steep technical climbing on perfect stone. Start at the jutting block Climb the slab past two bolts on good in-cuts then move left and up the slab to the corner. Climb the corner above to a good rest then up the steep wall to exit right.
Paul Rogers, Steve Walker, 1993.
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| 29 | Doobious Tendencies | 27 | 25m |
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7 |
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Weave through the scoop and over onto the ladder-like slab which will escalate you to the challenging top face. Weasel your way through the edges to a climatic finish.
Ivan Vostinar, 2004.
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| 30 | Stoned Immaculate | 23 | 25m |
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9 |
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This is the first climb on the right. Up the steep wall past three bolts. A tricky rock-over move then leads you up and right in to a left-facing corner. Steep cranky moves to finish up a slab.
Hugh Barnard, Paul Rogers, 1993.
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| 31 | On The Perimeter | 23m |
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4 |
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four bolts and cams. Take some long runners and small fingers.
Sally Carter, Aaron Ford, Apr 2004.
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Attribution:
Craig Jefferies
