Lefthand Wall

(18 routes)

A tree is stacked up against the cliff and has a fixed rope that leads to a sheltered bay. The tree has suffered over the years so three bolts have been added to the start to provide safe access to the climbs above. It is possible to traverse right from the Rata Tree to the start of pitch two of Dread Zone when pitch one is wet.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

Follow track one from the creek bed to a small clearing. Traverse left and up along the base of the wall, climbing up through steep vegetation to a small ledge and Rata tree then traverse left along quartz vein to a small ledge.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Many a Slip Twix Cup and Lip 18
0
wire representing trad
Up to small roof, traverse left and around corner, underclinging diagonally left-wards to a small ledge. Exit left to a kamahi tree which can be used to lower off.
Dave Blair, Steve Carr, Dec 1997.
2 Pro Rata 22 ,19 36m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Two bolts, wires and CD’s. At the old Rata tree, move up and right. Thin moves past a bolt lead to a small roof. The wall on the right is climbed to a bay with a natural pro belay. There is a huge flake on the left, probably best left alone.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12218m2Yes
 Two bolts, wires and CD’s. At the old Rata tree, move up and right. Thin moves past a bolt lead to a small roof. The wall on the right is climbed to a bay with a natural pro belay. There is a huge flake on the left, probably best left alone.
21918mYes
 With the big flake on the left, climb straight up into a left facing corner on great gear till moves out left lead up to a horizontal break. At the break move left to belay. 50m rap.
Steve Henry, Dave Roberts, Feb 1994.
3 The Drunkin Skunkin Leprechaun 19
0
5bolts wire representing trad 1
Originally climbed on gear, and quite run-out in places.Has been retro bolted to make it safer but still needs a pro. It may not say this in the Darrans Guide reprint
Sally Carter, Aaron Ford, Dec 2004.
4 Dread Zone 18 ,21 ,24 60m
3
wire representing trad
Starts ten metres left of the access tree. Climb up through blocks below a small roof then rock-over left to the slab. Veer up and left to a single bolt belay below ‘the guillotine,’ a V-shaped wedge of rock.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11815mYes
 Starts ten metres left of the access tree. Climb up through blocks below a small roof then rock-over left to the slab. Veer up and left to a single bolt belay below ‘the guillotine,’ a V-shaped wedge of rock.
22130mYes
 . Under-cling left to a big flake, a big sling is handy here. Up a slab ‘til a grunty rock-over right leads to a delicate traverse. Move right then take on the overlap and finger crack above
32415mYes
 . Move left and up stepping into large left-diagonal corner. Bolts protect hard moves on the right-hand arête. Move right then up to finish on the slab of Jack the Biscuit.
Paul Rogers, Polly Stupples, Nov 1994.
Chill-out ledge traverse 15
0
wire representing trad
A short traverse down and right to the Chill-Out Ledge from the top of the second pitch of Dread Zone.. Careful to place enough gear so as the seconder has an easy time of it.
5 Mr. Wolf 18 ,22
2.01
wire representing trad
A stunning undercling feature leading directly to the left side of the Chill-Out ledge. Bolts wires and small CD’s. Climb up through blocks below a small roof then rock-over left to the slab (same start as Dread Zone). Trend up to single bolt belay. With long slings you can belay from a small ledge below the anchor.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mYes
 A stunning undercling feature leading directly to the left side of the Chill-Out ledge. Bolts wires and small CD’s. Climb up through blocks below a small roof then rock-over left to the slab (same start as Dread Zone). Trend up to single bolt belay. With long slings you can belay from a small ledge below the anchor.
2220mYes
 Follow a thin left-tending undercling then up wall on good holds, natural pro. Steeper moves up past a two bolts lead to slopey ground then right to belay at the Chill-Out Ledge
Murray Ball, Paul Rogers, Feb 2003.
6 Jack the Biscuit 17 ,18 ,20 ,24 82m
2.01
8bolts wire representing trad
Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. . Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11730m3Yes
 Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. . Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.
21815m2Yes
 The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.
32025m3Yes
 From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.
42412mYes
 . The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left. Rob Wigley
Paul Rogers, Hugh Barnard, Oct 1993.
7 Granite gringo 22 15m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
A variation to the second pitch of Jack the Biscuit. From the belay at the top of the first pitch of JTB climb the ladder of ledges towards a sickle crack. Some very sneaky slab moves and crimps take you through to a juggy top out on medium wires
Kate Sinclair, 2004.
12 Contact Neurosis 16 ,18 ,28 54m
3
15bolts wire representing trad
Bolts, wires, CD’s to #2.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight meters ‘til moves out right take you up to a sloping ledge. Natural pro belay. It is possible to continue through doing the second pitch in one.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11620mYes
 Bolts, wires, CD’s to #2.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight meters ‘til moves out right take you up to a sloping ledge. Natural pro belay. It is possible to continue through doing the second pitch in one.
21816m5Yes
 Step right then straight up on gear then past two bolts to belay under the big roof.
32818m10No
 Moves from the ledge lead to a fingery section then generous jugs. Either bust out long moves ape style, or sort out a technical solution on intermediates. Funky top-out over the lip.
Paul Rogers, Jan 2003.
13 Another One 19
0
5bolts wire representing trad
An alternative to the first pitch of Contact Neurisis, finishing at the same belay. Climb the left-facing corner but instead of moving right head straight through the small overlaps past 5 bolts
Chill-out ledge traverse 12m
0
wire representing trad
From the 2nd pitch of Contact Neurosis. Traverse left and down 1m, then up a short crack to the ledge.
Psychonaut 32
0
The left-hand of the two routes that go through the steep cave right of the direct start to Bus t'Milford. Finishes somewhere near the Contact Nuerosis 3rd pitch anchor anchor.
Derek Thatcher, 2011
14 Zola 19 35m
0
7bolts wire representing trad
Starting right of the tree climb to flake clipping bolt, natural pro, (#0.3camolot), then continue up weakness to belay. Base of route can be wet so best climbed during a long fine period...
Troy Mattingley, Dec 2005
15 Power Trip 23 ,25 30m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Power Trip starts 10m right of the belay of Zola. Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3 A real journey of discovery, needing a bit of ‘power’ to move through the steep section. Off the right-hand end of the ledge move up to good underclings then thin moves up and right lead to a pink and white streaked roof system,crux, then continue up past a bolt to a belay under the roof. Above and right a line of bolts lead to a Project.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12318mYes
 Power Trip starts 10m right of the belay of Zola. Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3 A real journey of discovery, needing a bit of ‘power’ to move through the steep section. Off the right-hand end of the ledge move up to good underclings then thin moves up and right lead to a pink and white streaked roof system,crux, then continue up past a bolt to a belay under the roof. Above and right a line of bolts lead to a Project.
22512m2No
 Traverse out right into big exposure then crank wildly up past two bolts to belay in a corner on the left. Spectacular climbing! From here it is a 50m rappel to get off.
Luke Bardsley, Paul Rogers, Apr 1993.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Wall Above the Chill-Out Ledge (4 routes)
UUID: 
28e136e8-59c7-47b1-ae0e-26c1e2ebe3f2