Crag Info: Genuine rap-in, climb-out seacliff climbing, in a wild setting. Bring your handline, bring your binoculars; deep water and vast vistas mean you may take home a feed of cod, or memories of Hoiho (Yellow-Eyed penguins, Endangered) and Sea Lions) cruising below, or whales (Humpback, Southern Right, Orca) spouting offshore, particularly during the cooler months. And they can be cool indeed - the cliffs receive no winter sun, and catch SW through ENE breeze and swell. On that note, check the Chalmers marine forecast on Metservice; the bottom belays get very exciting when the swell approaches 3m, and should probably be avoided above this, especially towards high tide.
The airy access, variable rock quality (some holds may fail, particularly in the first few years), and committing rap-in approach means that even the fully bolted routes here should not be taken lightly. This is adventure climbing, and despite the lower grades, requires solid skills. It best suits confident trad leaders. Self-rescue capabilities and PLBs are a sound idea (minimal to no cell service). The steep, incredibly juggy basalt and thrilling setting will provide a memorable days climbing, for those prepared for Dunedins most adventurous rock venue yet.
Access is Closed August through October for lambing.
Follow Highcliff Rd out of Dunedin, past Larnachs Castle, then 15km from Dunedin turn right into Sandymont Rd which is followed to the carpark at its end.
Follow a signposted track through macrocarpas, past a woolshed, and down to the Allans Beach viewing platform (sea lions and seals may be heard or spotted in the cove below). Follow the prehistoric drystone wall seawards to the end of the headland, then drop steeply seaward down the long, obvious tussock spur, closely passing true left of The Chasm. From the end of the spur, the routes are below you (Deep South tops out on the left of twin promontories below). Locate a shallow gully and bolt anchor on the true right. Walk or rap down here, then head left to stash gear on a sheep trail below a 5m high wall The top of Deep south may be approached by an exposed walk, or by rapping from a DBA. To approach the other routes, walk another 10m East along the sheep trail to a DBA on a dark chunk of slab. Rap 30m (knots!) over grass and slabs to a DBA on the lip.
See topo for rap routes. Raps approach 30m: knot the ends of your rope, and use a backup prussick. Consider rigging a second rope as a fixed rap line to the bottom, keeping your lead rope dry (no pulls). However, this will decrease commitment. Alternately, on the bottom rap, 'saddlebag' your rope ends on your harness, or stack them in a pack for the rap, to avoid a wet, salty rope.
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