The Homer Tunnel Slabs are 200m vertically above the tunnel portal on the Hollyford side. The crag is fast drying and sports two 200m routes, equipped with bolts and chain belays. The routes run between the prominent water streaks and if combined can give 11 pitches of excellent climbing.
The slabs can be prone to rock fall from broken ground higher on the ridge. Wear a helmet and don’t climb if you can see threatening snow patches above you in springtime.
Both routes are primarily bolt protected but nearly every pitch requires at least some natural protection. Carry wires and cams to #3. Anchors are rigged for abseiling (requires two 50m ropes).
Climb scree and grass slopes to the right of the tunnel (looking up) until you reach rock slabs. Traverse left on tussock and slab ledges, gaining height up grassy gullies only when you are almost directly below and slightly left of the routes. Step back right to ledge and bolts.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 2Rock Busking, 21 | 21 | 200m | 6  |
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Sustained friction and thin face climbing. DBB on Kobi’s Ledge.
Move 15m down and right along Kobi’s Ledge to the starting belay for pitch two. Sustained friction climbing with spaced bolts, moving right past the 4th bolt. Treat the piton with caution.
Up on natural gear, through small left facing corner to finish past two pitons (caution) and one bolt.
Interesting friction and face climbing to the top DBB. |
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| 1 | 1Morning Glory, 19 | 19 | 50m | 5 |
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A less intense start to a day on the Homer Tunnel Slabs. Be careful at the third clip. |
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| The Curvy Thing, 20 | 20 | 50m | 5 |
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Alternative second pitch to Rock Busking. From Kobi’s Ledge trend left then curve back right to the belay. All bolts. |
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| 3 | 3Stage Fright, 20 | 20 | 160m | 6 |
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Climb to Kobi’s Ledge and scramble 30m down and right. A steeper line with more varied climbing on slabs, flakes and cracks.
If the water groove is dry, up this on natural gear (15) to DBB on left. If the groove is wet move left at piton (caution) and up past two bolts.
Move right and up, across water streak, to gain ledge and first bolt. Then head straight up. Excellent climbing.
Move left at first bolt and up through layback corner.
Have a #1.5 cam ready. |
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