Left Side | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Aspect

West

Access

From the end of the Track One, go left for 20 metres along the base of the wall through steep vegetation to gain a small ledge with a rata. To reach Pro Rata follow the base of the cliff leftwards and up.
Access One is used for routes numbered 1 to 9. Access Two is used for the first pitch of Jack the Biscuit, and for getting to the Chill Out Ledge.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Many a Slip Twix Cup and Lip, 18	18			0
P1 18 Trad Up to small roof, traverse left and around corner, underclinging diagonally left-wards to a small ledge. Exit left to a kamahi tree which can be used to lower off.
2	2Pro Rata, 22	22	36m	2	1.02
P1 22 18m 2 Trad Thin moves past a bolt lead to a small roof. The wall on the right is climbed to a bay with a natural pro belay. There is a huge flake on the left, probably best left alone. P2 19 18m Trad With the big flake on the left, climb straight up into a left facing corner on great gear till moves out left lead up to a horizontal break. At the break move left to belay. 50m rap.
4	4Dirty Deeds, 19	19			1.02
P1 19 Trad On the left of Access 1 is a distinct crack. This is a unique climb, with a frustrating bulge at the start. Move with elegance, and take small-to-medium cams.
3	3The Drunken Skunkin’ Leprechaun, 18	18	28m	9	1.02
P1 18 28m 9 Trad Starts 3 metres to the left of the previous route’s anchor. A cracker outing up an ever-steepening wall, giving a good pump and great views. It’s a bit loose in the second half, otherwise it would get two stars.
5	5Dread Zone, 24	24	60m	9	3
P1 18 15m 3 Trad From the forest floor, reach up through the blocks and rock-over onto the slab. Climb up through blocks below the guillotine, a v-shaped wedge of rock. P2 21 30m 9 Trad Follow underclings out left and move left up the slab. A grunty rock-over takes you to another section of slab and after the next reachy crux, climb the left-trending crack. Delightful. P3 24 15m 5 Trad Move left into the diagonal corner and climb with conviction through a difficult bulge. Keep charging and things will taper off quite nicely. From the fourth bolt, head straight up to join Jack the Biscuit. The leftward finish is grade 21.
6	6Mountain Mojo, 21	21	15m	6	0
P1 21 15m 6 Starts from the top of pitch 2 of Dreadzone and crosses over Jack the Biscuit.
7	7Scenic Flight, 27	27	12m	8	1.02
P1 27 12m 8 Continues from the top of Mountain Mojo. Cool moves in an exposed location.
8	8Chillout Ledge Traverse #1, 15	15	8m		0
P1 15 8m Trad The Chillout Ledge can be reached from the top of the second pitch of Dread Zone by a short traverse down and right. Place lots of gear so that your second has an easy time of it.
9	9Mr Wolf, 22	22	31m	3	2.01
P1 18 15m 3 Trad Start as for the first pitch of Dread Zone. After the rock-over, continue straight up the slab to a single bolt anchor, which can be backed up with a fat wire. Take long slings or a cordellette so that you can belay from a small ledge below the anchor. P2 22 16m 2 Trad Sublime climbing on a diagonal undercling. Rock on to the slab, then start drifting right on some gnarly slopers. Plain sailing to the Chill Out Ledge.
10	10Unnamed, 17	17	15m	5	0
P1 17 15m 5 From ground level, scamper up the slab and over the bulge.
11	11Rung Ladder Access, 10	10	15m	3	0
P1 10 15m 3 The metal rung ladder. The rungs run out at the lip and you have to do a few rock moves to get to the anchor, so get someone to belay you.
12	12Jack the Biscuit, 24	24	74m	6	2.01
P1 17 22m 5 From the top of the Rung Ladder climb up a few metres before following the vague ramp sharply left. The belay is hidden behind the right-facing corner. Long quickdraws are recommended. P2 19 15m 6 The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chillout Ledge. P3 18 25m 5 Trad From left end of the Chillout Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay. P4 24 12m 4 Trad The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left.
13	13Granite Gringo, 22	22	15m	3	0
P1 22 15m 3 Trad A variation to the second pitch of Jack the Biscuit. From the belay at the top of the first pitch of JTB climb the ladder of ledges towards a sickle crack. Some very sneaky slab moves and crimps take you through to a juggy top out on medium wires.
	Unnamed, 19	19	30m	10	1.02
P1 19 30m 10 Shares the first two bolts of Jack the Biscuit’s first pitch but heads straight over a little bulge. Continue up, veering left to rejoin the second pitch of Jack the Biscuit. A quick way to access the Chillout Ledge.
25	25Another One, 20	20	20m	6	2.01
P1 20 20m 6 Head straight up from the Rung Ladder belay and eventually veer slightly rightwards to the Contact Neurosis belay. The bolts are spaced but perfectly positioned.
27	27Zola, 19	19	35m	7	0
P1 19 35m 7 Trad Start to the right of the tree, and take a 0.3 cam. Climb to a flake clipping bolt, then continue up a weakness to the anchor. The base of this route can sometimes stay damp.
24	24The Hairy Fairy, 25	25		3	0
A short bolted route below the belay ledge. Can be climbed as a second pitch to Zola. Alternatively, take the Chillout Ledge Traverse #2 from the Chillout Ledge and rap in. P1 25 3
28	28Power Trip, 25	25	30m	2	1.02
A real journey of discovery. You’ll need a bit of power to move through the steep section. Starts 10 metres right of the Zola belay. Mostly bolted, but take a standard rack with cams to #3. P1 23 18m 1 Trad From the right-hand end of the ledge move up to good underclings. Thin moves up and right lead to the crux – a pink and white streaked roof system. Continue up past a bolt to a belay under the roof. P2 25 12m 2 Trad Traverse out right into big exposure then crank wildly up past two bolts to belay in a corner on the left. Spectacular climbing! From here it is a 50m rappel to get off.
23	23Pseudo Panics, 27	27		6	1.02
P1 27 6 A short roof climb starting from Power Trip's middle belay.

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

28e136e8-59c7-47b1-ae0e-26c1e2ebe3f2