2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Darrans
  5. Chasm Crag
  6. Left Side

Left Side

(19 routes)

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

From the end of the Track One, go left for 20 metres along the base of the wall through steep vegetation to gain a small ledge with a rata. To reach Pro Rata follow the base of the cliff leftwards and up.
Access One is used for routes numbered 1 to 9. Access Two is used for the first pitch of Jack the Biscuit, and for getting to the Chill Out Ledge.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Many a Slip Twix Cup and Lip 18
0
 wire representing trad
Up to small roof, traverse left and around corner, underclinging diagonally left-wards to a small ledge. Exit left to a kamahi tree which can be used to lower off.
Dave Blair, Steve Carr, Dec 1997.
2 Pro Rata 22,19 36m
1.02
 2bolts wire representing trad
Thin moves past a bolt lead to a small roof. The wall on the right is climbed to a bay with a natural pro belay. There is a huge flake on the left, probably best left alone.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12218m2Yes
 

Thin moves past a bolt lead to a small roof. The wall on the right is climbed to a bay with a natural pro belay. There is a huge flake on the left, probably best left alone.
21918mYes
 

With the big flake on the left, climb straight up into a left facing corner on great gear till moves out left lead up to a horizontal break. At the break move left to belay. 50m rap.

Steve Henry, Dave Roberts, February 1994
4 Dirty Deeds 19
1.02
 wire representing trad
On the left of Access 1 is a distinct crack. This is a unique climb, with a frustrating bulge at the start. Move with elegance, and take small-to-medium cams.
Anton Vestberg, 2014
3 The Drunken Skunkin’ Leprechaun 18 28m
1.02
 9bolts wire representing trad 1
Starts 3 metres to the left of the previous route’s anchor. A cracker outing up an ever-steepening wall, giving a good pump and great views. It’s a bit loose in the second half, otherwise it would get two stars.
Sally Carter, Aaron Ford, December 2004
5 Dread Zone 18,21,24 60m
3
 17bolts wire representing trad
From the forest floor, reach up through the blocks and rock-over onto the slab. Climb up through blocks below the guillotine, a v-shaped wedge of rock.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11815m3Yes
 

From the forest floor, reach up through the blocks and rock-over onto the slab. Climb up through blocks below the guillotine, a v-shaped wedge of rock.
22130m9Yes
 

Follow underclings out left and move left up the slab. A grunty rock-over takes you to another section of slab and after the next reachy crux, climb the left-trending crack. Delightful.
32415m5Yes
 

Move left into the diagonal corner and climb with conviction through a difficult bulge. Keep charging and things will taper off quite nicely. From the fourth bolt, head straight up to join Jack the Biscuit. The leftward finish is grade 21.

Paul Rogers, Polly Stupples, November 1994
6 Mountain Mojo 21 15m
0
 6bolts
Starts from the top of pitch 2 of Dreadzone and crosses over Jack the Biscuit.
Claudia Gray, 2012
7 Scenic Flight 27 12m
1.02
 8bolts
Continues from the top of Mountain Mojo. Cool moves in an exposed location.
Anton Vestberg, 2014
8 Chillout Ledge Traverse #1 15 8m
0
 wire representing trad
The Chillout Ledge can be reached from the top of the second pitch of Dread Zone by a short traverse down and right. Place lots of gear so that your second has an easy time of it.
9 Mr Wolf 18,22 31m
2.01
 5bolts wire representing trad
Start as for the first pitch of Dread Zone. After the rock-over, continue straight up the slab to a single bolt anchor, which can be backed up with a fat wire. Take long slings or a cordellette so that you can belay from a small ledge below the anchor.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11815m3Yes
 

Start as for the first pitch of Dread Zone. After the rock-over, continue straight up the slab to a single bolt anchor, which can be backed up with a fat wire. Take long slings or a cordellette so that you can belay from a small ledge below the anchor.

22216m2Yes
 

Sublime climbing on a diagonal undercling. Rock on to the slab, then start drifting right on some gnarly slopers. Plain sailing to the Chill Out Ledge.

Murray Ball, Paul Rogers, February 2003
10 Unnamed 17 15m
0
 5bolts
From ground level, scamper up the slab and over the bulge.
Paul Rogers, 2014
11 Rung Ladder Access 10 15m
0
 3bolts
The metal rung ladder. The rungs run out at the lip and you have to do a few rock moves to get to the anchor, so get someone to belay you.
12 Jack the Biscuit 17,19,18,24 74m
2.01
 20bolts wire representing trad
From the top of the Rung Ladder climb up a few metres before following the vague ramp sharply left. The belay is hidden behind the right-facing corner. Long quickdraws are recommended.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11722m5No
 

From the top of the Rung Ladder climb up a few metres before following the vague ramp sharply left. The belay is hidden behind the right-facing corner. Long quickdraws are recommended.

21915m6No
 

The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chillout Ledge.

31825m5Yes
 

From left end of the Chillout Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.
42412m4Yes
 

The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left.

P1–3: Paul Rogers, Hugh Barnard, October 1993; P4: Rob Wigley, 1999
13 Granite Gringo 22 15m
0
 3bolts wire representing trad
A variation to the second pitch of Jack the Biscuit. From the belay at the top of the first pitch of JTB climb the ladder of ledges towards a sickle crack. Some very sneaky slab moves and crimps take you through to a juggy top out on medium wires.
Kate Sinclair, 2004
Unnamed 19 30m
1.02
 10bolts
Shares the first two bolts of Jack the Biscuit’s first pitch but heads straight over a little bulge. Continue up, veering left to rejoin the second pitch of Jack the Biscuit. A quick way to access the Chillout Ledge.
25 Another One 20 20m
2.01
 6bolts
Head straight up from the Rung Ladder belay and eventually veer slightly rightwards to the Contact Neurosis belay. The bolts are spaced but perfectly positioned.
Paul Rogers, 2005
27 Zola 19 35m
0
 7bolts wire representing trad
Start to the right of the tree, and take a 0.3 cam. Climb to a flake clipping bolt, then continue up a weakness to the anchor. The base of this route can sometimes stay damp.
Troy Mattingley, December 2005
24 The Hairy Fairy 25
0
 3bolts
A short bolted route below the belay ledge. Can be climbed as a second pitch to Zola. Alternatively, take the Chillout Ledge Traverse #2 from the Chillout Ledge and rap in.
The Bolt Fairy, 2006
28 Power Trip 23,25 30m
1.02
 3bolts wire representing trad
A real journey of discovery. You’ll need a bit of power to move through the steep section. Starts 10 metres right of the Zola belay. Mostly bolted, but take a standard rack with cams to #3.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12318m1Yes
 

From the right-hand end of the ledge move up to good underclings. Thin moves up and right lead to the crux – a pink and white streaked roof system. Continue up past a bolt to a belay under the roof.

22512m2Yes
 

Traverse out right into big exposure then crank wildly up past two bolts to belay in a corner on the left. Spectacular climbing! From here it is a 50m rappel to get off.
Luke Bardsley, Paul Rogers, April 1993
23 Pseudo Panics 27
1.02
 6bolts
A short roof climb starting from Power Trip's middle belay.
Jon Sedon, 2006
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
28e136e8-59c7-47b1-ae0e-26c1e2ebe3f2