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Chillout Ledge

Type
Part of

The Chillout Ledge is a junction point for many routes and a comfy place to hang out. It’s a 40m rap to the ground. The climbs up the steep wall above are well-protected sport and mixed routes, and all have lower-off chains. There is a rescue rope on the ledge for pulling the climber back in. To avoid dropping your mate, consider tying the loose end of the lead rope to the belayer or the chain.
Routes 19 to 24 can be reached from the Chillout Ledge by the Chillout Ledge Traverse #2.

Image
Access

The most direct access to the Chillout Ledge is from the Rung Ladder.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
14 14Akathisia, 28 28 24m 5
0

Bolted with tender loving care by Paul Rogers. It is possible to climb the route as one long pitch.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 12m
  • 5

A no-hands rest at the end.


  • P2
  • 28
  • 12m
  • 5

Straight up from the belay to the anchors up and left of Buster Gonad.


15 15Buster Gonad, 26 26 26m 9
3

  • P1
  • 26
  • 26m
  • 9
  • Trad

A wild ride from start to finish. Take bolts and cams from #1 to 3.5. Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. A real cornucopia with pockets, underclings, lay-backing and crimps!


16 16Insane Automatism, 28 28 23m 10
0

  • P1
  • 28
  • 23m
  • 10

From the ledge, traverse right 2m then climb the corner and arête. This line joins Buster Gonad for one bolt then climbs straight up through the cruxy dyke feature.


17 17Bus t’Milford, 27 27 18m 8
3

  • P1
  • 27
  • 18m
  • 8

This route takes the line of pockets out right. Crimpy moves past the first bolt lead to a steep ramp and pocketed headwall. A popular test piece.


18 18Bust a Drive-by, 31 31 26m 13
3

  • P1
  • 31
  • 26m
  • 13
  • Trad

Climb Bus t’Milford, get a good rest, then do a steep and tricky boulder problem. The climax is a drive-by dyno for the very lip of the crag.


20 20Bus t’Milford Direct Start, 28 28 26m 15
2.01

  • P1
  • 28
  • 26m
  • 15

Start from the ledge to the right of the belay at the top of the second pitch of Contact Neurosis. From the belay head straight up, then left. Join Bus t’Milford at the dyke feature.


22 22Liquid Sky, 31 31
1.02

  • P1
  • 31

From the Contact Neurosis belay, climb the beautiful streak via three crimpy bouldery sequences that lead to a dynamic finish in an outrageous position.


19 19Contact Neurosis, 29 29 52m 10
3

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 9

From ground level scamper up the slab and into the left-facing corner. Climb this for eight metres before moving right to reach a sloping ledge. This and the next pitch can be climbed as a single pitch.


  • P2
  • 18
  • 14m
  • 4

Step right, then delightful face climbing to a belay under the big roof.


  • P3
  • 29
  • 18m
  • 10

Moves from the ledge lead to a fingery section then generous jugs. Either bust out long moves like a gibbon, or sort out a technical solution on intermediates. Ends with a funky top-out over the lip.


26 26Chill-Out Ledge Traverse #2, 8 8 12m
0

  • P1
  • 8
  • 12m
  • Trad

Reach the Chillout Ledge from the top of the second pitch of Contact Neurosis by traversing left and down a metre or so, then up a short crack to the ledge.


21 21Psychonaut, 32 32 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 32
  • 6

Steep roof to the right of Contact Neurosis with two hard boulder problems. The first one features a throw off a pinky mono undercling!


Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
39c24ffb-a7b7-4a78-900d-beb3a154b3de