An exceptional quality trad climbing crag with routes up to 60m on immaculate rock. Predominately crack/flake climbing with outstanding rock features and unbeatable ambience (views of Tutoko, Milford Sound, the Central Darrans etc). Superlatives abound. Crackheads will delight in the laybacks, jamming and bomber gear of this lovely block of rock. 3/3 climbers agree, Sexual Harassment Panda (20, ***) is well worth the walk from Homer.
Let's keep the crag clean please, there is plenty of gear available and bolts aren't needed. All established routes have in-situ trad anchors but take your own cord and use discretion when abseiling off this gear.
Walk up Gertrude Valley, cross outlet Black Lake. Head towards Talbot East Ridge, fastest route being a ledge system between the Sickle Crag and the Bog Farmer slabs. Then head up easy slabs and then snow to a point 1/3 up the East Ridge. The crag is centred on a prominent immaculate block of rock, that happens to be the usual abseil spot for those climbing the full East Ridge of Talbot. Needs a few hours to dry out after rain, some routes may need more.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Phoebe the Phobia Ferret | 19 | 30m |  |
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| 2 | Woodsy the Drug Owl | 22 | 30m | |
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| 3 | Terms of Enrampagement | 18 | 60m | |
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| 4 | Sexual Harassment Panda | 20 | 55m | |
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| Direct Start to Sexual Harassment Panda | 20 | |
Images
