These climbs are on the back of the campground headland, between Curio Bay and Porpoise Bay. The routes begin off a wave-cut platform, broad but exposed to the Southern Ocean - a small swell and lower half of the tide are essentials for most routes. Extremely short (6 - 10m), and with variable rock quality, they nonetheless offer quality jams, off-widths and chimneys; not many places in the South Island offer this density of wide cracks! Sound trad skills are essential - the business starts straight off the deck, so sew it up. Don't skimp on the larger cams. All routes are trad, with bolted top anchors (Titanium / Sika 3+).
If you encounter Hoiho/ yellow-eyed penguins (Endangered) on the platforms - less likely since the construction of the Curioscape Visitor Center and associated development - enjoy, keep calm, keep your distance (50m is ideal), and note; DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN/ON THE CAMPGROUND AREA, OR WAVE PLATFORMS. This is critical for the remaining penguins.
Little Blue Penguins (At Risk - Declining) now nest on the sheltered side of the headland, and are often heard at dusk; Hectors dolphins (Endangered) may be seen in Porpoise Bay, or from the crag.
The climbs are on the back (ocean) side of the hill and headland dominating Porpoise Bay and the Curio Bay campground. Walk around wavecut platforms from either side of the headland. Beware large sets, rising tide and rouge waves. Align your visit with the lower half of the tide. Avoid this crag above half tide, especially during large swells! That's when the surf is cranking anyway...
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Flotsam | 13 | 0m | ||||
Jetsam | 16 | |||||
Southern Heart | 11 | |||||
Once Were Hoiho | 15 | |||||
Starfish Stem | 16 | |||||
Shortbored | 12 | 0m | ||||
Totally Tubular | 15 | |||||
Holy Mackrel | 19 | |||||
Craysy Crack | 17 | |||||
Silence of the Snails | 19 | |||||
Snails Pace | 18 | |||||
Death From Below | 20 | |||||
Blistering Barnacles | 16 |