Dark Castle | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The high limestone towers on the north of Rambandit Valley have some excellent long routes although they are now almost never climbed. Careful washing would be needed on almost all the routes before climbing would again be possible.

Approach

This is a special part of Kura Tawhiti Reserve that has predator fencing – please shut the gates! Avoid climbing any of the routes that overlook the farm house.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Mean Mr Peanut, 22	22		1	1.02
P1 22 1 Found at the upper end of the Rambandit Valley. Climb the rounded arete.
	Space Race, 19	19		1	1.02
P1 19 1 Use same star as AB. Move L-wards to the pocks and up past the bolt.
	Anna Bollocks, 19	19		1	1.02
P1 19 1 Start R of MMP. Carry out short pock crank.
HW	HWHoodwink, 23	23		4	1.02
P1 19 1 Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf. P2 6 Traverse L-wards along the shelf. P3 23 4 Ascend wall and bridge onwards. P4 20 3 Traverse R-wards, then exit straight up.
	Wings of Desire, 26	26			1.02
A technical route that still remains unrepeated P1 26 The bolted line L of MfG
	Made from Girders, 26	26		5	1.02
An old Dave Fearnley project.On the south face directly facing Rambandit. Climb the arete. P1 26 5
	Irn Bru, 26	26		4	2.01
A good summer pocket pull P1 26 4 The face to the R of MFG
	Headful of Steam, 24	24		3	2.01
P1 24 3 Found at the Lh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Ascend the wall and then puulover into a big scoop.
	Sewerslide, 19	19		3	0
P1 19 3 Found at on the Rh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Climb the arete.
	Pinstripe Clone, 18	18		3	0
P1 18 3 Starts R of Sewerslide. Climb up and R-wards following bolts to ramp.
	The Lovin' Handful, 24	24		3	1.02
P1 24 3 Starts 10m R of Sewerslide. Climb the arete via the layback crack.
	Ewe 2, 17	17		2	0
P1 17 2 Found on the large separate block. Start at the NE corner and go L-wards to gain the slab.
	White, No Sugar, 22	22		2	0
P1 22 2 Uphill side of the Ewe2 boulder. R-ward trending line.
	Big Chimney, 16	16		3	0
P1 16 3 Trad AT the end of the valley. Climb the chimney crack.
	The Tower, 22	22		1	1.02
P1 22 1 Trad Startb at the top of Big Chimney. Clip the bolt then gain some pockets, go straight up or L-wards across the groove to the edge.
	Atomizer, 27	27			1.02
P1 27 On the Lh-side and near the entrance of Double Dick Canyon.
	Magic Kiwi, 22	22			0
P1 22 R of Atomizer. Climb overhung corner, then travers R-wards to pedastal and onwards up the arete
	Baby Bunnies, 16	16		3	0
P1 16 3 A short wall and slabby groove on the approach to EE
EE	EEEndangered Earth, 23	23		5	1.02
P1 23 5 Approach via the rock path, to starting bolt. Climb the wall to the flared groove then out L-wards onto the slab. Shares the same finish as the Big Chimney.
	Wendy's Rasin Loaf, 16	16		1	0
P1 16 1 Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the Lh-edge.
	Cutex Cutie, 16	16		1	0
P1 16 1 Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Goes up the middle
	Super Slipper, 18	18		1	0
P1 18 1 Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the south side.
	New Ninja, 15	15		2	0
P1 15 2 Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb up the L-wards to pocks and carry on upwards.
	Manicure, 19	19		2	1.02
P1 19 2 Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. The middle route.
	Breakfast in Bed, 21	21		2	0
P1 21 2 Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb the Rh Arete.
AP	APAngel of Pain, 32	32	0m	3	0
P1 32 3 Climbs the steep scooping wall culminating in a desperate mantle. The steep climbing involves 4 monos and a two finger. Because of the required setup to gain the mantle most of the lower moves are cross overs. DT.

Images

Comments

This place appears in

Rock Deluxe South, 2014

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