Mt Horrible

(34 routes)

Mt Horrible is a plug of quality basalt very close to Timaru. If you enjoy trad climbing on good pro and sound rock then this is the place for you. The routes are quite short but have an abundance of well-rounded holds and cracks that vary from finger width to semi offwidth. There are many other unrecorded routes that are shorter, blocky lines on both sides of the main wall. Some of these can be treated as boulder problems.
Expect clean, solid rock with sound gear possibilities. Make sure you take a few quickdraws; a standard rack (a couple of large cams are useful); long slings and a single rope.
The top of the crag is totally flat and user-friendly and the anchors are bomber. Since you can wander around easily between anchors, it is most efficient to set up one rope for descents.
The first routes are on the far left of the main wall before it gets vegetated or blocky.
Beware of old carrot or expansion bolts, it is recommended you do not use these! The basalt here is quite soft. There are a few new glue-in bolt anchors, these are good to go.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
350m
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
10min
Access: 

The landownders are Penny and David Seyb. There is no need to contact them before climbing. Please observe the usual courtesies and show respect while climbing on their land.

From Timaru:
Just north of the Timaru city centre is an intersection with Wai-iti Rd. Turn right here and drive 4km to Gleniti. Veer left into Claremont Rd and follow this for 7km past Claremont School to Whalebone Corner (intersection with Fairview Rd). Turn left on to Fairview Rd and take the next right, which is Mt Horrible Rd. After 5km, there is a farm gate on the left , as the road flattens out. Park here but please do not obscure the gate access.
From Dunedin:
Turn off just before the Pareora bridge into Pareora River Rd. After 12km, turn right in to Holme Station Bridge Rd. Turn left in to Fairview Rd and travel for 3km before turning left in to Mt Horrible Road (as above).
Cross through the gate and walk along the hedge on your left. Go through another gate. Head slightly right and southwards for the next 500m to the edge of the scarp and over the swampy pond to the big pine trees on the other side of the paddock. Either use the single pine as an abseil anchor or scramble down one of the gullies to the crag.

Lat/Lon: 
-44.410202000000, 171.071547000000
NZMS260: 
J39 564 424
Topo50: 
CA19 465 808
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Politics of Utopia
0
wire representing trad
The arete to the LHS of the cave
Pete Cleveland 94
Banana Man on Tour 14
0
wire representing trad
2nd crack L of FF cave
Pete Cleveland 94
Future Fantasy 20
1.02
wire representing trad
Roof of the Lh access cave. Start R and work your way L into the crack. Entertaining!
Brent Davis
Whose Line?? 20
0
wire representing trad
50 R of FF, "20" scratched at the base. A thin and intermiittent crack.
Brent Davis?
Hip Replacement 14 10m
0
wire representing trad
10m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti is a shallow gully with a rising lightening crack and a blocky top half.
FA unknown
Hippopotamus 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
8m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti climb a left-facing corner crack which turns right-facing at a second small overhang.
FA unknown
S Stercus (Latin for Compost) 16
1.02
wire representing trad
Start just left of mahoe tree. An off-width crack leads into a good open book corner with great bridging. Double ring bolt anchor.
Anthropology 18
0
wire representing trad
Start up the wall and gain a wide crack, then climb through blocks exiting on another wide crack.
Dipper Mouth 17
0
wire representing trad
Bidge and jam your way above the graffiti.
WW Windy Wanderer 17
1.02
wire representing trad
Start on the steep and strenuous hand crack, into wide off-width crack, then finish on twin finger cracks with good bridging. Original start was on the right behind the tree (grade 15, not recommended). Double ring bolt anchor.
Competition 17
0
wire representing trad
Start behind the broadleaf tree. Climb the roof and crack from the centre of the ledge.
Art for Art's Sake 18
0
wire representing trad
Start behind the broadleaf tree. Easy up to a small ledge, then wide bridging and finger locks enable a move left (crux) to finish. Vegetated at the top – take care to avoid the bush lawyer.
CS C.C. Special 16
0
wire representing trad
Start behind the tree just left of the Jelly Roll slab. Climb up crack and face, and up the good crack in the upper wall.
Potato Head 17 12m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Jelly Roll up the hand-crack, but at the break step left to the recessed corner-crack. Climb straight up, with a bit of a stretch through the capping overhang.
Physical Graffiti 17
0
wire representing trad
The same start as JR, Continue straight up when you reach the block half way up.
John Fraser
JR Jelly Roll 17 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start on the slab with a balancy move. Into layback/jam, and then step right into a beautiful corner with great hand jams and bridging. Alternative start is to start up the corner of Turn to Gold and traverse back in to the left (but why bother when the slab start is so cool?)
Turn to Gold 24 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
climb up face and LH edge linking onto the arete to LLS of H
Tony Rooney
HP Hyperformance 23 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
Up the thin finger-crack in the steep wall (first crux), then pull into an awkward rest in the pod (second crux), then move up on OK jams (third crux). Don't forget to clip into your gear as you go (fourth crux!) A classic Fearnley line.
Dave Fearnley 82
PC Pareora Corner 18 13m
2.01
wire representing trad
The continous corner that keeps on giving. Bridging, laybacks, finger jams, hand jams....
Andy Cambell
B The Bird 19 13m
2.01
wire representing trad
Has everything in its short height. Up finger crack tending right into hand crack. Shake out in the OK rest before launching left over the bulge (crux). Finish up wide off-width crack.
Andy Cambell
The Arete 24 14m
0
wire representing trad
Boulder up the arete (key hold has broken off and its now quite hard!), tending L into the small crack, then back onto the arete to finish
John Howard
SJ Slim Jim’s Jam 16 14m
1.02
wire representing trad
Up the corner to the off-width crack, then move up onto easier territory. If you don't use any face holds in the off-width section, add a few grades (its good training for Wizard of Ice?!)
Slim Jim's Arete 17
0
wire representing trad
The arete ot the RHS of SSJ, rejioning after 4m. No pro!
GH Groove in High 18 14m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start on the series of steep and balancy finger cracks (crux). Continue up towards thin crack in corner capped by small roof.
Twin Cracks 17 14m
0
wire representing trad
Carry out the trash start onto the block (warning: this block is looking quite detached, pull on it at your own risk), twin jam-cracks then up through easier terrian.
RM Rural Monkeys 16 14m
1.02
wire representing trad
Just left of China Boy. Start on small right facing corner (crux). Then bridge and jam your way up the obvious line past solid flakes.
Unknown (resurrected by Sash Nukada, June 2018)
CB China Boy 14
1.02
wire representing trad
Starts behind the tree. Bridge onto ledge then climb the RH facing corner.
BM Blue Monday 18 13m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start L of Arch Dig behind a tree to gain the upward-flaring offwidth; then layback on to the arête and up to a small ledge. Step R to finish in the L crack.
AD Arch Dig 17 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
Up through blocky corner to the pea-pod, bridge your way out of it, then finish up the RH crack.
Treacherous Cretins 20
0
The arete and face between AD and W. No Pro!
Luke Newnham
WM Wildman 19 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
Bridge your way up through the arch, arrange your gear, change down a gear, and then either jam (or layback!) your way up the obvious crack. Exit R to the arete with a wide crack.
Andy Cambell
YC Young Coronary 16 11m
0
wire representing trad
Starts with a nice jam crack which abandons you after a couple of metres (crux). Then it eases into a nice corner-crack. to finish.
Otago Youth 18
0
wire representing trad
Boulder problem up face 2m R of Young Coronary. You have two choices: straight up with no gear for 4-5 metres, or step left a metre or so, place good gear and grunt through over the block. Nice moves in the upper crack follow.
Luke Newnham
Pigs in Space 20
0
wire representing trad
50m R of YC. Follow a shallow groove onto a ledge, then use the off-width to gain the above hand-crack to exit.
Lule Newnham

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