
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Politics of Utopia |
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The arete to the LHS of the cave
Pete Cleveland 94
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Banana Man on Tour | 14 |
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2nd crack L of FF cave
Pete Cleveland 94
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Future Fantasy | 20 |
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Roof of the Lh access cave. Start R and work your way L into the crack. Entertaining!
Brent Davis
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Whose Line?? | 20 |
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50 R of FF, "20" scratched at the base. A thin and intermiittent crack.
Brent Davis?
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Hip Replacement | 14 | 10m |
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10m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti is a shallow gully with a rising lightening crack and a blocky top half.
FA unknown
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Hippopotamus | 16 | 10m |
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8m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti climb a left-facing corner crack which turns right-facing at a second small overhang.
FA unknown
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S | Compost Bin | 16 |
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Start just left of māhoe tree. An off-width crack leads into a good open book corner with great bridging. Double ring bolt anchor.
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Anthropology | 18 |
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Start up the wall and gain a wide crack, then climb through blocks exiting on another wide crack.
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Dipper Mouth | 17 |
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Bridge and jam your way up above the graffiti.
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WW | Windy Wander | 17 |
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Start on the steep and strenuous hand crack, into wide off-width crack, then finish on twin finger cracks with good bridging. Original start was on the right behind the tree (grade 15, not recommended). Double ring bolt anchor.
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Competition | 17 |
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Start behind the broadleaf tree. Climb the roof and crack from the centre of the ledge.
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Art for Art's Sake | 18 |
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Start behind the broadleaf tree. Easy up to a small ledge, then wide bridging and finger locks enable a move left (crux) to finish. Vegetated at the top – take care to avoid the bush lawyer.
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CS | C.C. Special | 16 |
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Start behind the tree just left of the Jelly Roll slab. Climb up crack and face, and up the good crack in the upper wall.
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Potato Head | 17 | 12m |
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Start as for Jelly Roll up the hand-crack, but at the break step left to the recessed corner-crack. Climb straight up, with a bit of a stretch through the capping overhang.
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Physical Graffiti | 17 |
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The same start as Jelly Roll, but continue straight up when you reach the block halfway up.
John Fraser
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JR | Jelly Roll | 17 | 12m |
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Start on the slab with a balancy move. Into layback/jam, and then step right into a beautiful corner with great hand jams and bridging. Alternative start is to start up the corner of Turn to Gold and traverse back in to the left (but why bother when the slab start is so cool?)
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Turn to Gold | 24 | 12m |
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climb up face and LH edge linking onto the arete to LLS of H
Tony Rooney
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HP | Hyperformance | 23 | 12m |
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Up the thin finger-crack in the steep wall (first crux), then pull into an awkward rest in the pod (second crux), then move up on OK jams (third crux). Don't forget to clip into your gear as you go (fourth crux!) A classic Fearnley line.
Dave Fearnley 82
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PC | Pareora Corner | 18 | 13m |
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The continous corner that keeps on giving. Bridging, laybacks, finger jams, hand jams....
Andy Cambell
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B | The Bird | 19 | 13m |
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Has everything in its short height. Up finger crack tending right into hand crack. Shake out in the OK rest before launching left over the bulge (crux). Finish up wide off-width crack.
Andy Cambell
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The Arete | 24 | 14m |
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Boulder up the arete (key hold has broken off and its now quite hard!), tending L into the small crack, then back onto the arete to finish
John Howard
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SJ | Slim Jim’s Jam | 16 | 14m |
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Up the corner to the off-width crack, then move up onto easier territory. If you don't use any face holds in the off-width section, add a few grades (its good training for Wizard of Ice?!)
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Slim Jim's Arete | 17 |
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The arete ot the RHS of SSJ, rejioning after 4m. No pro!
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GH | Groove in High | 18 | 14m |
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Start on the series of steep and balancy finger cracks (crux). Continue up towards thin crack in corner capped by small roof.
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Twin Cracks | 17 | 14m |
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Carry out the trash start onto the block (warning: this block is looking quite detached, pull on it at your own risk), twin jam-cracks then up through easier terrian.
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RM | Rural Monkeys | 16 | 14m |
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Just left of China Boy. Start on small right facing corner (crux). Then bridge and jam your way up the obvious line past solid flakes.
Unknown (resurrected by Sash Nukada, June 2018)
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CB | China Boy | 14 |
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Starts behind the tree. Bridge onto ledge then climb the RH facing corner.
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BM | Blue Monday | 18 | 13m |
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Start L of Arch Dig behind a tree to gain the upward-flaring offwidth; then layback on to the arête and up to a small ledge. Step R to finish in the L crack.
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AD | Arch Dig | 17 | 12m |
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Up through blocky corner to the pea-pod, bridge your way out of it, then finish up the RH crack.
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Treacherous Cretins | 20 |
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The arete and face between AD and W. No Pro!
Luke Newnham
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WM | Wildman | 19 | 12m |
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Bridge your way up through the arch, arrange your gear, change down a gear, and then either jam (or layback!) your way up the obvious crack. Exit R to the arete with a wide crack.
Andy Cambell
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YC | Young Coronary | 16 | 11m |
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Starts with a nice jam crack which abandons you after a couple of metres (crux). Then it eases into a nice corner-crack. to finish.
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Otago Youth | 18 |
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Boulder problem up face 2m R of Young Coronary. You have two choices: straight up with no gear for 4-5 metres, or step left a metre or so, place good gear and grunt through over the block. Nice moves in the upper crack follow.
Luke Newnham
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Pigs in Space | 20 |
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50m R of YC. Follow a shallow groove onto a ledge, then use the off-width to gain the above hand-crack to exit.
Lule Newnham
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