Named after Captain Sibbald, the first runholder at Lilybank Station, Mt Sibbald was first climbed
by Edgar Williams and William Kennedy in 1917 from Lucifer Flat in the Godley Valley. A successful
climb from the glacier on the northern slopes (now the standard route) was made in 1934 by C N
Johnson, H J Newberry and I Powell from McKinnon Stream (a tributary of the Godley River), but
this route is now usually reached from the Macaulay Valley.
Mt Sibbald is relatively easy to reach and, being east of the Main Divide, is away from the worst of
the westerly weather, making the climb a popular two-day trip. The usual approach is from Macaulay
Hut although a camp further upstream or a high bivvy may be beneficial as the summit is a 1700-metre
climb from the Macaulay riverbed – there is good camping at the tarn in Upper Tindill Stream. Mt
Sibbald has three peaks. A climb of the northern summit is straightforward and gives good views.
However, reaching the higher south summit requires some exposed, delicate footwork along a rotten
and towered ridge and this frequently causes more cautious groups to turn back. A rope might be
helpful.
Photo; Mt Sibbald from the north-east. Skyline snow slopes in sun to the right drain into
McKinnon Stream, Godley catchment, while the partly shaded slopes below and left
of the summit drain into Upper Tindill Stream in the Macaulay catchment. Mike Andrews
Although outside the AMCNP boundary, Mt Sibbald is a prominent peak and a popular climb. The usual approach is from the Macaulay Valley. Macaulay Hut, described at the beginning of the Godley Valley section, provides a good base. However, a high bivvy could be useful.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bohemoth's Corridor | 2+ | 300m | ||||
North Ridge | 2+ | |||||
Unnamed | ||||||
From Lucifer Flat | ||||||
South East Ridge | 2+ | |||||
South West Ridge | 2 | |||||
North West Ridge | 2 |
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
Photo, Mike Andrews