- P1
- 13
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 3
A direct route on the south east face from the head of Moa Stream that follows a prominent spur and crosses rock and glaciated slopes to the summit. From the head of Moa Stream, aim for the deeply incised gut in the center of the face climbing a remanent glacier and avalanche debris to gain low angle rock. Scramble up to the second waterfall and climb approximately 100 m of grade 13-14 rock on the true right of the waterfall to a scree covered panel. Climb the scree and follow a series of vegetated ledges up the spur towards the large tower before a large chasm is encountered. Descend into the chasm and climb a single pitch of grade 12, trending to the northern side of the tower. From here climb compact zebra striped rock and snow slopes, trending west toward the summit before climbing loose rock on the last 100 m of the south east ridge. Descent via the south east ridge to the col between Moa Stream and the North Mathias.