North West Buttress

From the head of the Reischek Glacier climb rock to the left of a snow couloir which leads on to the North Ridge. After the first 100 metres or so the climbing gets more difficult and it may be necessary to traverse into the couloir (prone to rock fall). Regain the buttress where possible and climb a large chimney. Once through the chimney, cross the face under the summit to join the North Ridge just below the summit.