NZAC Crag | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

300m

Part of

This area has a collection of mostly easier climbs which are well bolted and suitable for beginner leaders. There is a practice anchor for rehearsing pitch-head transitions. All Photos are in order from the left of the crag.

At the end of the crag is a Christchurch Adventure Park sign, which indicates that access is closed beyond that point. It is hoped that the climbs further along will be available to climbers again when further safety checking has been completed.

Walktime

25 mins

Aspect

East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
T S	T STalking Sphincter, 18	18	10m	4	0
P1 18 10m 4 Start up through overhang, then climb just right of the blunt arete.
C Y	C YThe Clandestine Years, 17	17	12m	4	0
P1 17 12m 4 Start as for Dirt E Boys move left across the ledge or on the overhang below (harder), climb up through the middle of the face to rap stn.
V J	V JVertical Janitors, 16	16	12m	4	0
P1 16 12m 4 Clip bolt at overhang move R-wards and onto the ledge then up the wall to the left of the crack, then move back L to the rap stn.
DEB	DEBDirt E Boys, 15	15	23m	8	1.02
P1 15 23m 8 First climb up hill from Huffing Helium. rock up and over small bulge onto ledge for for first clip. Climb straight up to second clip then slightly rightwards for third clip. Follow through groove as the climb steepens up on good positive holds with bolts on your left , then a final small bulge before the double ring bolt anchors at the top.
DEG	DEGDirt E Girls, 14	14	23m	8	1.02
P1 14 23m 8 Get started on Dirty Boyz, to gain the first small ledge. Veer rightwards following the bolts up the steeping face to the lower off, approx. 1.5m right of DB.
DND	DNDDown N Dirt E, 16	16	25m		0
Start at Dirty Girls traverse left about roof to an optional anchor then join Turf War. P1 16 25m
T W	T WTurf War, 19	19	23m	7	0
P1 19 23m 7 Start at Huffing Helium, 1st bolt. Traverse left 1.5m, then upwards to the ledge left of HH. Carry on through sloping corner and on to jug hauling to rap station.
HH	HHHuffing Helium, 18	18	23m	9	1.02
P1 18 23m 9 Bridge through the overhung corner to gain the 1st bolt then move L-wards on to the wall. Once on the ledge go R-wards past the 5th bolt then veer L-wards and up the headwall to the belay.
LS	LSLip Service, 17	17		1	0
P1 17 1 Trad This route climbs the overhang on the upper part of the cliff, about five metres left at the top of Pinocchio, which can be used as an approach route. Otherwise approach up a grassy slope to the right. Use cams and wires in the obvious V-corner and to the left, then reach right to clip the bolt and pull through the overhangs on huge holds. Very short but good cranking.
BJ	BJBlow Job, 17	17	8m	4	0
P1 17 8m 4 2 metres to the right of 'Lip Service' . Traverse left at the ringbolts anchors for 'Geppetto' and up to the first bolt below the overhang,pull through the overhang[crux] and clip the second bolt. Up the arete clipping two more bolts and pull over onto the belay ledge to Double bolt anchor station[no rings but can traverse easily to ring bolts to the right].There is still a final bolt to be installed between last one and anchors so runout to the top as of 12/1/14.
Go	GoGeppetto, 17	17	12m	4	0
P1 17 12m 4 4 metres to the left of 'Pinocchio'. Climb to small holds and clip first bolt,up and onto ledges for easy clip of next 2 bolts.Good holds on small edge on left and step up and right to clip 4th bolt,finish over small slab to double ring bolt anchors on headwall.Technical at the crux between 3rd and 4th bolt
JC	JCJiminy Cricket, 17	17	8m	4	0
P1 17 8m 4 Second pitch of 'Geppetto' and starts at the double ring bolt anchors , clipping the first 2 bolts where there are two options from here , either straight up past the 3rd bolt at grade 17 or stepping right around the block and up easier ground at grade 14 with exposed top out to anchors. 4 bolts in total over 8 metres and double ring bolt anchors at the top.
P	PPinocchio, 17	17		4	1.02
On the main cliff, about ten metres into the trees is a short jutting arête with 4 bolts Approach the arête from the right; then pull up on to the arête with good holds and cruise to the ledge. Double ring bolt anchors were installed by C/W N.Z.A.C Members on 2/2/13. P1 17 4
G	GGridlock, 16	16	12m	4	0
P1 16 12m 4 Start off block( 15 ) or use direct start[16] from ground, to clip 1st bolt, after the 2nd bolt move leftwards into the corner and back rightwards on the finishing slab & rap stn.
NG	NGNational Grid, 14	14	12m	5	0
P1 14 12m 5 Ascend the vertical start, a balancy reach for the first clip for those shorter or use the 'cheat stone' on the ground. Stand up on the ledge,clip the second bolt then reach for the jugs on the right,vear leftwards towards the third bolt then straight up,past 2 bolts to the anchors.
GG	GGGridiron is Gay, 12	12	12m	4	0
P1 12 12m 4 Climb the featured slab past 3 bolts to ledge. Follow past 4th bolt mantling onto rap stn ledge.If you go left of the bolts at the start add a couple of grades to the climb.
BT	BTBad Transmission, 16	16	9m	3	0
This and the next climb are on a small isolated outcrop much further along, past the Adventure Park sign, so access to these is prohibited at present. However this is not much loss. Easy slab climbing to the first bolt then traverse left on to a grassy ledge. From there mantle on to the main ledge above. Double bolt anchor. P1 16 9m 3
TR	TRTransmission Received, 15	15	9m	3	0
P1 15 9m 3 As with the previous route, this is in the closed area. Easy climbing straight up to the grassy ledge. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt as there is ground-fall potential. Shares the first bolt with the previous route. Use double bolt anchor from previous route.

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