NZAC Crag

(22 routes)

This area has a collection of mostly easier climbs which are well bolted and suitable for beginner leaders. There is a practice anchor for rehearsing pitch-head transitions. All Photos are in order from the left of the crag.

Altitude: 
300m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
25 mins
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Powder Finger 14 7m
0
3bolts
20 metres up hill of switch and to the left of the tree.
Cant/West sect of N.Z.A.C 24/3/13.
SW Switch 19
0
3bolts
The first three routes are on a small crag south of the main crag and higher (above the trees).
Mary Butler, 1999.
Ty Trinity 17
0
3bolts
Uses the second and third bolts of the previous route. Climb the corner and clip the second bolt, pull on to the ledge and climb the face past the second bolt to the anchor rings.
Mary Butler, 1999.
Unknown Line 21
0
3bolts 1
Short route between Trinity and Romeo is Bleeding. Three bolts, finishing at the chains in the broken band. Unsure on grade (around 21, 22 mark?), who put this up? Feel free to update.
RB Romeo Is Bleeding 24
0
3bolts
Steep route up a smooth wall with three bolts. No anchors.
Alex Palman, 1999.
Talking Sphincter 18 10m
0
4bolts
Start up through overhang, then climb just right of the blunt arete.
Cant/ West section of NZAC
The Clandestine Years 15 12m
0
4bolts
Start as for Dirt E Boys move left across the ledge or on the overhang below (harder), climb up through the middle of the face to rap stn.
Cant/ West Section of NZAC
Vertical Janitors 16 12m
0
4bolts
Clip bolt at overhang move R-wards and onto the ledge then up the wall to the left of the crack, then move back L to the rap stn.
Cant/ West Section NZAC
Dirt E Boys 15 23m
0
8bolts
First climb up hill from Huffing Helium. rock up and over small bulge onto ledge for for first clip. Climb straight up to second clip then slightly rightwards for third clip. Follow through groove as the climb steepens up on good positive holds with bolts on your left , then a final small bulge before the double ring bolt anchors at the top.
Cant/ West Section of the N.Z.A.C 2013.
Dirt E Girls 14 23m
0
8bolts
Get started on Dirty Boyz, to gain the first small ledge. Veer rightwards following the bolts up the steeping face to the lower off, approx. 1.5m right of DB.
Mike Atkinson 2014
Turf War 19 23m
0
7bolts 1
Start at Huffing Helium, 1st bolt. Traverse left 1.5m, then upwards to the ledge left of HH. Carry on through sloping corner and on to jug hauling to rap station.
Grant Piper 2014
HH Huffing Helium 18 23m
1.02
9bolts
Bridge through the overhung corner to gain the 1st bolt then move L-wards on to the wall. Once on the ledge go R-wards past the 5th bolt then veer L-wards and up the headwall to the belay.
Grant Piper
LS Lip Service 17
0
1bolts wire representing trad
This route climbs the overhang on the upper part of the cliff, about five metres left at the top of Pinocchio, which can be used as an approach route. Otherwise approach up a grassy slope to the right. Use cams and wires in the obvious V-corner and to the left, then reach right to clip the bolt and pull through the overhangs on huge holds. Very short but good cranking.
Stu Allan, 2000.
BJ Blow Job 17 8m
0
4bolts
2 metres to the right of 'Lip Service' . Traverse left at the ringbolts anchors for 'Geppetto' and up to the first bolt below the overhang,pull through the overhang[crux] and clip the second bolt. Up the arete clipping two more bolts and pull over onto the belay ledge to Double bolt anchor station[no rings but can traverse easily to ring bolts to the right].There is still a final bolt to be installed between last one and anchors so runout to the top as of 12/1/14.
Wellington Section of N.Z.A.C 14/2/13.
Go Geppetto 17 12m
0
4bolts
4 metres to the left of 'Pinocchio'. Climb to small holds and clip first bolt,up and onto ledges for easy clip of next 2 bolts.Good holds on small edge on left and step up and right to clip 4th bolt,finish over small slab to double ring bolt anchors on headwall.Technical at the crux between 3rd and 4th bolt
Canterbury/Westland Section N.Z Alpine Club. 2/2/13.
JC Jiminy Cricket 17 8m
0
4bolts
Second pitch of 'Geppetto' and starts at the double ring bolt anchors , clipping the first 2 bolts where there are two options from here , either straight up past the 3rd bolt at grade 17 or stepping right around the block and up easier ground at grade 14 with exposed top out to anchors. 4 bolts in total over 8 metres and double ring bolt anchors at the top.
C/W Section Members 6/2/13.
Po Pinocchio 17
1.02
4bolts
On the main cliff, about ten metres into the trees is a short jutting arête with 4 bolts Approach the arête from the right; then pull up on to the arête with good holds and cruise to the ledge. Double ring bolt anchors were installed by C/W N.Z.A.C Members on 2/2/13.
Stu Allan, 2000.
Gk Gridlock 16 12m
0
4bolts 1
Start off block( 15 ) or use direct start[16] from ground, to clip 1st bolt, after the 2nd bolt move leftwards into the corner and back rightwards on the finishing slab & rap stn.
Canterbury/ Westland Section, NZ Alpine Club.26/1/13.
NG National Grid 14 12m
0
5bolts
Ascend the vertical start, a balancy reach for the first clip for those shorter or use the 'cheat stone' on the ground. Stand up on the ledge,clip the second bolt then reach for the jugs on the right,vear leftwards towards the third bolt then straight up,past 2 bolts to the anchors.
Canterbury/Westland Section NZ Alpine Club.26/1/13.
GG Gridiron is Gay 13 12m
0
4bolts
Climb the featured slab past 3 bolts to ledge. Follow past 4th bolt mantling onto rap stn ledge.If you go left of the bolts at the start add a couple of grades to the climb.
Canterbury/Westland Section NZ Alpine Club.26/1/13.
BT Bad Transmission 16 9m
0
3bolts
Easy slab climbing to the first bolt then traverse left on to a grassy ledge. From there mantle on to the main ledge above. Double bolt anchor.
Ben Gibbins 2012
TR Transmission Received 15 9m
0
3bolts
Easy climbing straight up to the grassy ledge. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt as groundfall potential.Shares the first bolt with the previous route. Use double bolt anchor from previous route.
Ben Gibbins 2012