Main Cliff

(39 routes)

The second cliff on approach, The group of routes is about 100 metres north at an overhanging area.

Altitude: 
300m
Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
EE Eye Eye Captain 24
2.01
2bolts
Two bolts up a steepening wall, with anchor rings to the right.
Karen Ashbury, 1999
Dance-O-Mat 25
1.02
3bolts
Another project by the Gap Fillers. Start as for Nut for a Nut but veer left to blank wall, clip high 2nd bolt and set yourself up on the only holds available for wicked dyno!
Troy Mattingley 2013
NN Nut For A Nut 22
3
4bolts 1
Left-facing corner with a small arĂȘte. Move rightward at the bulge and work the arete past the fourth bolt. The line now carries up and right to share anchor with Sallys for a nicer finish.
Karen Ashbury, 1999
SG Sally's no more gaps 18
0
3bolts 1
Amble up the ramp to the right of 'Nut for a Nut' through a broken band to a stance then punchy moves through the headwall lead to anchor
James Lochhead 2013
FS Funk Soul Brother 22
0
3bolts
Three metres right. Pull up on knobbly rock and step delicately on to the wall (no protection); move right past a bush to clip the first bolt (muddy holds). Through the roof and across the wall to the third bolt. Over the bulge directly and climb the arete (crux). There is also an escape route to the right. Three bolts and anchor rings. .
Jon Sedon. 1999
Ga Godzilla 25
0
5bolts
Undercut corner four metres right. Start between a fern and a bush and climb to a hidden bolt under the roof. Move right on good holds and pull through the roof into the corner, then through to the top. Five bolts.
Tony Burnell, 2000.
Captain Nutrino 27
0
3bolts
Five metres right. Up to the first bolt on a small nose and through a square roof, tending left past two bolts.
Ivan Vostinar, 1999.
Liquid Nails 24
1.02
5bolts
A variation to King Kong, climb this to the 2nd bolt. Crank up into corner and head left from the undercling on pockets, a big move takes you to the lip, now pull over (crux) and head right and finish up KK. You wont hit the tree.
Troy Mattingley 2013
KK King Kong 24
1.02
5bolts 1
Start below the obvious hanging corner up to high first bolt, pull up into corner now trend right to the arete. Finish through the roof. Ring anchors at the top.
Tony Burnell 2000
Gap Filler 23
1.02
5bolts
Two metres left of Special K. Scramble up on good holds up under the roof clipping bolts, big span out right to the lip then crank through a sneaky sequence to meet up with King Kong sharing his last 2 bolts and anchor.
Thomas Adamson 2013
GB The Go-Between 20
0
5bolts
Start as for Special K, clipping the 3rd bolt before traversing left and up using cams in the horizontal break. Finish over the roof as for King Kong.
John Iseli 2001.
SK Special K 19
0
5bolts 1
A few metres right, at the right edge of the overhang opposite a tree. Hard pulling to the first bolt, move right to the second bolt, and climb the wall. Five bolts. Anchors missing but straightforward traverse leads left to King Kong.
Andrew Buist
Mn Mandarin 20
0
4bolts
Start under the roof immediately right of Special K, boulder through the roof and past the first bolt to saunter up the rest of the climb.
Tony Burnell 2013
AC Asian Connection 17
0
4bolts
Starts off the ledge to the left of Benshau, climb up through the scoops to an anchor.
Tony Burnell 2013
Bu Benshau 18
0
Climb easily up the slab 3.0mts right of Mandarin then past 2 bolts, then up the steeper wall to an anchor on the left.
Tony Burnell, 2013
MN What's In A Name? 20
0
4bolts 1
About twenty metres right are two routes on a prominent buttress.... Hard start protected by a bolt clipped from the ground. Then climb up past the left side of a small cave on good holds to anchor rings at the top. Four bolts, somewhat loose.
Lindsay Main, 2000.
ML Mr Lucky 19
0
4bolts
Start at the right side of the arĂȘte and pull up on big flat pockets, clip the bolt, and thrash past the slopers (strenuous). Then climb the arete to the top - one anchor ring. Four bolts.
Alex Palman, 1999.
Pd Pacified 17
0
2bolts wire representing trad
About 10 metres further right. The first bolt is just above the ground to protect the haul through the bulge. Step left after the 2nd bolt. Straightforward climbing on natural gear (cams) up the face to the left of Drama Queen, finishing at anchors to the right.
John Iseli 2001.
DQ Drama Queen 17
0
4bolts
Start through the overhang as for Pacified and continue steadily rightward up the wall past three more bolts to an anchor ring. Abseil from the double rings of Undertrained.
Mary Butler, 1999.
Undertrained 19
0
4bolts
A few metres right, finishing near the previous route's anchor. Steeply overhanging start to large jugs at the top of a block, with a high first bolt. Up with a wire or small cam of dubious quality, then straight past three bolts to anchor rings.
Jason Tweedie, 2000.
TT Toned And Terrific 19
0
3bolts
Easy climbing to a prominent bulge with a high first bolt. Haul up on huge jugs and run it out to the second bolt; then straight-forward climbing to the anchors slightly right. Three bolts.
Jason Tweedie, 2000.
Un Unnamed Sport Route 18 20m
0
5bolts
Start at the overhung corner, as for T&T. Veer R-wards and up finishing on corner to use T&T's rap stn
2013
Sinuosity 17
0
wire representing trad
About 4 metres right of TAT. Start up vague cracks passing left of a bush to a small bulge. Move right to a crack, and then left on to a shelf trending left to finish at the TAT anchors. Lindsay Main, 2007.
JV Jugular Vein 17 20m
0
5bolts
Start on pedestals to the left of Buffy the Vampire Layer. Haul through steep ground to the ledge, veer leftwards up easy slabs to rap station.
Grant Piper 2014
BV Buffy The Vampire Layer 21
1.02
7bolts
Effortless climbing up the small prow with two bolts, then more gymnastically up the wall and over the bulge to an easy finish. Move left and then back right after the last bolt. Double ring anchor. Seven bolts.
Andrew Buist, 2000.
Pg Pining 20
1.02
7bolts
Climb the previous route to the ledge and move right after the second bolt. Small holds up the wall, initially left and then right of the bolts, to a common finish. Seven bolts.
John Iseli, 2000.
Old Fella's Folly 19
0
wire representing trad 3
Start as for Pining, traversing along the ledge to the corner, thus avoiding damage to the vegetation below the corner. Climb the corner on adequate protection, with an exciting finish afetr the crack disappears. Be sure to place good gear before leaving the crack to the right of the corner. Use the anchors at the top of Buffy The Vampire Layer or belay well back from the top.
John Iseli, 2000.
EM The Earth Moved 19 20m
0
5bolts
Start right of the Old Fellas Folly corner. Climb directly through the overhung corner then. up through the left side of the upper headwall and go left to use the Pining's rap station.
Kevin Barratt, April 2013
Cp Cyclops 18
1.02
5bolts
Climb onto ledge, then move leftwards up through circle and onwards to rap chains.
Ton Burnell 2012
Zc Zoltec 19
0
4bolts
Climb onto ledge, then up rightwards to the corner and carry on past coner to the rap station.
Tony Burnell
The Great Unknown 19
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Ascends the shallow groove to the left of "The Corner". Start as for Quandary, reaching right to clip the first bolt on that route. Climb the groove and overlap above on natural gear with a committing delicate finish on the wall above. Move right at the top to the Quandary anchors.
John Iseli 2001.
Qy Quandary 20
0
3bolts
The prominent arete with three bolts. Start as for The Great Unknown (small cam), then make technical moves on the left side of the arete. Step right past the third bolt and finish as for "The Corner" (cams). Unfortunately the lower part of the route fights to stay out of the corner to the left, and the finish is shared with the next route, so there is little independent climbing. Double ring anchor.
John Iseli, 2000.
TC The Corner 19
0
wire representing trad
About twenty metres right, behind the cabbage trees. An obvious V-corner which veers left around a roof and then right to a ledge. Then up the corner, finishing left through an overhang onto a slab. Good protection from cams. Anchor to a pine tree 20 metres uphill (or to future anchors rings up a little).
Daniel Jenkins, 1999.
Cordyline 19
0
wire representing trad
Arete line a metre right starting slightly right (committing). Natural protection in the breaks and pockets, but quite run-out in places.
Kynan Bazley, 2000.
DE Domino Effect 18 18m
0
5bolts
Start behind the cabbage tree. Climb towards the arete, then climb arete and face right of the arete. Near the top, move left wards above the corner, using the rap station for The Corner.
Grant Piper 2012
Handle With Care 20
0
wire representing trad
About 10 metres right up a rusty wall beside a tree. Steep climbing on brittle rock. Gear placements using nuts, cams and wires can be hard to spot and are strenuous to place. Anchor to a tree 20 metres back.
Lindsay Main, 2000.
Rustaclaus 21
2.01
3bolts
The left of two bolted routes just right. Start behind a tree and boulder up to the first bolt from the right. Then up on big holds to the third bolt, and reach through to jugs. Anchor rings below the top, shared with the next route.
Kate Finnerty, 1999.
DMFD 16
0
wire representing trad
From the anchor above 'Rustaclaus' and 'Red-eye Reindeer', continue climbing the prominent crack to the top of the crag using small and medium size cams. Good gear. Double ring anchor.
Ben Gibbins 2012
Red-eye Reindeer 21
1.02
3bolts 1
The right route. Start right of the grass and dirt and climb leftward past three bolts to finish at the anchor rings.
Jon Sedon, 2000.

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