Trad Crag

(17 routes)

This is information from Allan Hill that has been in storage for nearly 20 years. Please treat it as gospel, as there may have been a lot of gaps and changes!

There are good tree belays, and some fixed slings with krabs to avoid damage to trees. The cliff is bolt free.

Orientation
In the centre of the crag is a red lichenous wall. 7 metres L of this is the L-facing corner and roof of Juan Cornetto. To the R is the large corner of Katzenklappe.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
320m
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
20min
Access: 

Location

Just below the Crater Rim Walkway between Twisted Sister and Crag Y. It’s handy to abseil in from a stand of three cabbage trees, which are above Feat of Clay/Juan Cornetto . Alternatively there is a vague path to the east of Twisted Sister, leading to Swallow Dive.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.590513000000, 172.731894000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Swallow Dive 19
0
wire representing trad
At the far L of the crag is a short wall below a large OH. Climb to the OH lip, move R though weakness, step back L to finish.
FA /11/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Blood And Bone 18
0
wire representing trad
6m to the R is a LW trending red ramp/corner. From the apex move L, then up to finish.
FA /12/98 Alan Hill, Hamish Reid & Dale
Snakes And Ladders 19
0
wire representing trad
To the R is a cave. Start below the deep gully which bisects the wall above the cave. Gain the gully (crux), then climb the groove on the L wall.
FA /11/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
A Dose Of Groundup 21
1.02
wire representing trad
At the RH side of the cave . Follow the RW trending crack, finish up the jam crack with tenuous move L to finish (crux). Full range cams & wires). Fixed sling/krab for descent.
FA /11/98 Alan Hill and Paul Bingham
Perpetual Struggle Against The Eunuchs 21
0
wire representing trad
The steep slab right of Groundup to the lip of the roof. Gear in top crack of Groundup.
FA 20/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Juan Cornetto 19
1.02
wire representing trad
To the R is a corner capped by an OH. Up the corner, L under OH (crux). Poor protection to reach the roof.
FA 2/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Feat Of Clay 16
0
wire representing trad
Climb the corner of Juan Cornetto for 5m, then move up and R 5m to the scungy chimney. Up this, and climb cracklines between red lichen and flax.
FA /11/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Libration 18
0
wire representing trad
Start 3m to the R, just L of gully with trees. Climb the wall (crux) to join Feat Of Clay. Up the chimney, then up and L to the red rounded flake. Gain top of this, L to blocks.
FA 5/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Hit Me With A Flower 20
0
wire representing trad
To the R is prominent patch of red lichen. Just R again is a wide crack above a tree. Climb the crack.
FA 29/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Katzenklappe 20
0
wire representing trad
R again is a large corner and capping roof with slot on RH side. Climb the corner, move R around huge jammed block, then up the slot (crux)
FA /11/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Brass Monkeys 18
1.02
wire representing trad
As for Katzenklappe, but finishing L under the roof (crux)
FA /11/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Smoked Muscles 21
1.02
wire representing trad
6m R. Climb the RH side of the OH. Up through the bulge (crux), finish RW’s below final OH’s. FA 5/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
FA 5/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Tonton Macoutes 23
1.02
wire representing trad
Start to the right below large overhang split by flared crack. Climb to the alcove then move left 3 metres (cams in flake), then up to lip of overhang (cam #2.5). Gain crack (crux) to top.
FA 20/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Fifty Lashes 23
0
wire representing trad
The big roof above the start of Tonton Macoutes. Good nuts/cams below the roof, and cam #1.5 at bottom of jamcrack.
FA 22/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Life In The Freezer 17
0
wire representing trad
The weakness R of the large roof with V notch. Gain the alcove above the bulge, and through the roof (crux).
FA /11/98 Hamish Reid & Alan Hill
All Aboard The Bloated Pigs 22
0
wire representing trad
2m to the R is a rounded prow. Climb this on its LH side (crux), past large pockets and through bulge with tussock. Finish up the groove. Alternatively climb up R of the prow (18), a grade more in keeping with the rest of the route.
FA 29/12/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
See No Evil 17
0
wire representing trad
2m to the R is a right-angled corner , just L of cave with trees. Up the corner, move L below tussock, easy arete to finish (or better, finish up the groove of All Aboard)
FA /11/98 Alan Hill & Hamish Reid
Attribution: 
Allan Hill