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Main Cliff

Type
Part of

Routes are described from left to right.

Image
Aspect
South
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Pine tree leads, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

About 10m left of Liaisons Dangereux . An obvious gully with vegetation and a small shrub part way up on the left. Climb through to top of gully and step right to sling the pine tree. Not much pro and poor belay at top. Craig Smith 12/97


 Liaisons Dangereux, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Takes the corner / crack with the large flake in it on L of the main cliff. Cleaned and lead on sight. Placed pro. Simon Middlemass 91


 Between the Lines, 18 18 6
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 6

A AA slice of life, 20 20 3
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 3
  • Trad

Left of Tarn is a concave lower wall that leads onto a wall split by broken cracks.Climb delicately from L by Petes route. Tiny wires at the start will protect the first moves to the bolt.Swing up using broken cracks. 3 Bolts ,small wires and a #1 friend (under small roof). Simon Middlemass 2/98


B BTarn, 22 22 3
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3
  • Trad

Awkward start from L to get established in the R facing corner and below small roof.Move up over roof to thin crack and up pillar .3 Bolts. Pete Sykes 91


 Stepping Out, 23 23 6
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 6

 Bolting with the Dolphins, 21 21 2
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 2
  • Trad

Clip first bolt on Hugs and Drugs to stop a grounder , tackle bulges 1m to left. Uses the last bolt on Hugs and Drugs which can be clipped leaning across. John McCallum 1/98


C CHugs and Drugs, 22 22 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 4

Just left of Steel rain is a peapod groove head straight up wall from this 4B. Finishes at the Steel Rain belay. John McCallum 1/98


 Navel Gazing, 23 23 6
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 6

D DSteel Rain, 23 23 3
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 3
  • Trad

An ode to the Gulf War .Largest section of flat wall left of L facing corner.Start on broken blocks / pedestal on left that allows the 1st bolt to be clipped.Diagonals R then move back left after the 3rd bolt to place wires under block to protect the final moves. Athol Whimp 91


 Rodeo Corner, 25 25
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • Trad

On the left of the undercut wall a V-groove starts .Hard moves to a big block and continues up the left facing corner next to Steel rain. Pat Deavoll 2/98


E ESpice up your life, 23 23 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • 6

Starts in the middle of the undercut wall left of the tree.The left hand line almost straight up the wall and lactic your way through the final bulges. 6 B Pat Deavoll 1/98


F FLets off Road!, 24 24 6
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • 6

Starts in the middle of the undercut wall left of the tree , diagonals R through roofs to finish up the Buttress L of The Full Monty. Pat Deavoll 1/98


 Galvanised Action, 22 22 1
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 1
  • Trad

Guilty or not? Starts 2m L of tree at undercut bulge with good slot up into corner (good pro) move L to lets off road at roof then move R at 2nd roof directly up face to move L again to Lets Off Roads last bolt and anchors. Tony Burnell 98


G GThe Full Monty, 16 16 2
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 2
  • Trad

A large tree dominates the middle of the cliff.This route starts off a big boulder L of the tree.Climb the left end of wall onto the lower ledges (1st bolt can be pre clipped from tree- starting from the tree is an easier option ) then up to R of overhanging buttress.At small roof pull over on good holds (0.5 Tricam, 2 or 3 Rock on R above) follow the corner up and left past one more bolt .Finish on ledge. 3B, Friends 1-1.5 useful. Simon Middlemass 1/98


 Smokescreen, 21 21 1
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 1
  • Trad

The obvious crack behind the Pittosporum tree.From 2m R of the tree in a small alcove there is an obvious groove / seam that heads directly up the wall. Bouldery start protected by 1 bolt leads to easier climbing through middle ground and then committing moves through crack and overhang at top. Craig Smith 2/98


 Pin Cushion, 22 22 7
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 7

 The Power of Piss, 21 21 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4
  • Trad

4m R of tree. A few bouldery moves to clip the 1st bolt then easy climbing on big holds to steepening ground and up buttress L of 'If Jenny Craig...' to the same belay. John McCallum 2/98


H HIf Jenny Craig could see me now, 20 20 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 5

Start as for Half man...but at the first good holds move left across wall past bolt.Up over bulge to thin final wall.Finish left after last bolt. 5B. Simon Middlemass 1/97


I IHalf Man Half Biscuit, 19 19 2
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 2
  • Trad

Where the first bit of level ground is .Takes the broken corner and up R of a small buttress. 2 Eye Bolts. Gavin Tweedie 91


 The Uprooter, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Starts near the foot of the access gully (large flax bush) and 2m R of Half man Half biscuit on good ledges following the obvious line . 3 white lichen spots up high identify the line. CD's 1-4 useful. Lead and cleaned on sight. John McCallum 1/97


 Blinky the 3 eyed fish, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

A top roped line on the bulges just R of The Uprooter.Using the same belay. Chris Owen 1/97


 Twisting by the pool, 16 16 4m 1
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 4m
  • 1

A short (4m) bulgy boulder problem up a seam/corner at the bottom of the access gully. Single bolt for top roping. Simon Middlemass (solo) 3/98


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fe5d9281-f0e4-464f-975d-3295bc7c0e35