Main Cliff

(19 routes)

The R side of the cliff is slightly lower and of a solid dark brown rock.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Pine tree leads 16
0
About 10m left of Liaisons Dangereux . An obvious gully with vegetation and a small shrub part way up on the left. Climb through to top of gully and step right to sling the pine tree. Not much pro and poor belay at top. Craig Smith 12/97
The Uprooter 15
0
Starts near the foot of the access gully (large flax bush) and 2m R of Half man Half biscuit on good ledges following the obvious line . 3 white lichen spots up high identify the line. CD's 1-4 useful. Lead and cleaned on sight. John McCallum 1/97
Liaisons Dangereux 15
0
Takes the corner / crack with the large flake in it on L of the main cliff. Cleaned and lead on sight. Placed pro. Simon Middlemass 91
Blinky the 3 eyed fish 15
0
A top roped line on the bulges just R of The Uprooter.Using the same belay. Chris Owen 1/97
A A slice of life 20
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Left of Tarn is a concave lower wall that leads onto a wall split by broken cracks.Climb delicately from L by Petes route. Tiny wires at the start will protect the first moves to the bolt.Swing up using broken cracks. 3 Bolts ,small wires and a #1 friend (under small roof). Simon Middlemass 2/98
Twisting by the pool 16 4m
0
A short (4m) bulgy boulder problem up a seam/corner at the bottom of the access gully. Single bolt for top roping. Simon Middlemass (solo) 3/98
B Tarn 22
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Awkward start from L to get established in the R facing corner and below small roof.Move up over roof to thin crack and up pillar .3 Bolts. Pete Sykes 91
Bolting with the Dolphins 21
0
Clip first bolt on Hugs and Drugs to stop a grounder , tackle bulges 1m to left. Uses the last bolt on Hugs and Drugs which can be clipped leaning across. John McCallum 1/98
C Hugs and Drugs 22
1.02
4bolts
Just left of Steel rain is a peapod groove head straight up wall from this 4B. Finishes at the Steel Rain belay. John McCallum 1/98
D Steel Rain 23
0
3bolts wire representing trad
An ode to the Gulf War .Largest section of flat wall left of L facing corner.Start on broken blocks / pedestal on left that allows the 1st bolt to be clipped.Diagonals R then move back left after the 3rd bolt to place wires under block to protect the final moves. Athol Whimp 91
Rodeo Corner 25
0
On the left of the undercut wall a V-groove starts .Hard moves to a big block and continues up the left facing corner next to Steel rain. Pat Deavoll 2/98
E Spice up your life 23
2.01
6bolts
Starts in the middle of the undercut wall left of the tree.The left hand line almost straight up the wall and lactic your way through the final bulges. 6 B Pat Deavoll 1/98
F Lets off Road! 24
0
6bolts
Starts in the middle of the undercut wall left of the tree , diagonals R through roofs to finish up the Buttress L of The Full Monty. Pat Deavoll 1/98
Galvanised Action 22
0
Guilty or not? Starts 2m L of tree at undercut bulge with good slot up into corner (good pro) move L to lets off road at roof then move R at 2nd roof directly up face to move L again to Lets Off Roads last bolt and anchors. Tony Burnell 98
G The Full Monty 16
0
2bolts wire representing trad
A large tree dominates the middle of the cliff.This route starts off a big boulder L of the tree.Climb the left end of wall onto the lower ledges (1st bolt can be pre clipped from tree- starting from the tree is an easier option ) then up to R of overhanging buttress.At small roof pull over on good holds (0.5 Tricam, 2 or 3 Rock on R above) follow the corner up and left past one more bolt .Finish on ledge. 3B, Friends 1-1.5 useful. Simon Middlemass 1/98
Smokescreen 21
0
The obvious crack behind the Pittosporum tree.From 2m R of the tree in a small alcove there is an obvious groove / seam that heads directly up the wall. Bouldery start protected by 1 bolt leads to easier climbing through middle ground and then committing moves through crack and overhang at top. Craig Smith 2/98
The Power of Piss 21
1.02
4m R of tree. A few bouldery moves to clip the 1st bolt then easy climbing on big holds to steepening ground and up buttress L of 'If Jenny Craig...' to the same belay. John McCallum 2/98
H If Jenny Craig could see me now 20
1.02
5bolts
Start as for Half man...but at the first good holds move left across wall past bolt.Up over bulge to thin final wall.Finish left after last bolt. 5B. Simon Middlemass 1/97
I Half Man Half Biscuit 19
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Where the first bit of level ground is .Takes the broken corner and up R of a small buttress. 2 Eye Bolts. Gavin Tweedie 91

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