Thunderdome Area

The often damp roof and its environs. Once the place to hang around, before the discovery of the Cave in Barnett Park on the other side of the hill.

Type:

Wall

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality	Bolts	Gone
	Fantasia	17		0		1
	This is just as you come out of the trees. It is a good route apparently. Up the corner and flake. Rob Rainsbury, 1975
	Hyperspace	22		0	3
	The bolted arete L of the cave. Up the arete past 2 bolts (crux), then slightly left and continue up the easier but very run-out wall above: there is just one more bolt and it's quite high. Ton Snelder, 1991
	Chocolate Discharge	A2		0
	Aid up the zigzag crack on the L end of the overhang section. Start in a groove, then L, then up. Knifeblades. Roger Parkyn
	Arms Race	23	12m	1.02	6
	Start in the R-facing corner L of Gone Bimbo. Straight up to the 4th bolt and join Layer Cake climbing directly to its 5th bolt Tony Burnell, December 2017
	Layer Cake	24	12m	1.02	6
	Start as for Gone Bimbo but at the first bolt continue straight up across the roof and up the groove to a DBA. Tony Burnell
	Gone Bimbo	26	12m	2.01	7
	The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Often wet. Pull to the fourth bolt then traverse R along the crack. Previously required a cam at the end of the traverse; now there's an extra bolt. There's also a new anchor to the left of the original anchor, which has rusted badly. Supposedly made a fair bit easier - after some gardening was done after the third bolt on the left. Ton Snelder, 1989
	Alternative Traverse	27		0	7
	An alternative traverse to Gone Bimbo. From GBs third bolt take the low traverse right, through a punchy and sequency section to join back into GB at its final bolt. Andy Cockburn
	Carnivore	27		0
	Start at Mysterious Swine Disease, traversing left across the Gone Bimbo roof and finishing up Peter Carter's variation finish (27). Peter Taw, 1993
	Mysterious Swine Disease	26		1.02	7
	Strenuous and gymnastic moves (you couldn't tell?) leftwards across the roofs, joining Gone Bimbo just below the anchor. Pete Taw, 1992
	Swine Fever	26	11m	0	5
	Start as for Mysterious Swine Disease But go straight up to a ledge and right facing corner Tony Burnell
	Mega Pump	27		0
	Do MSD to the last bolt. Go L to CD pro then down GB to where the direct finish exits. Pete Taw, 1992
	Kubla Khan	29	15m	1.02	4
	Boulder problem past ring bolt to easier headwall and coldshuts. Sefton Priestley 2004
	Creatures of Power	28	15m	1.02	5
	Awkward moves under the roof lead to easier ground. Peter Taw
	Creatures of Power (Alternative Start)	25		0	6
	Follow the steep corner out right at the start of Creatures of Power, to join it again for the fourth clip. Careful climbing from third to fourth, unsure of the ground fall potential if you were to fall towards the fourth. Michael Karnick
	Scud Muscles	23	10m	0	2
	An interesting start with some loose holds gets you to the first bolt. Don't kick off the big ledge! Tackle the small roof at the second bolt, then up easier but looser ground with scant pro to finish in the weeds. Watch out for rope drag. Dave Fearnley
JJ	Jug Jockey	23		1.02	4		1
	Start between Scud Muscle and Frank's in a Frenzy. Start up the yellow coloured wall directly below a series of overhangs. Climb easily up to the first bolt, a hard move past the first bolt leads to a huge hold. Surmount the second roof on improving holds and continue up, steep but easy ground past three more bolts. At the top of the shallow right facing corner rock over out left to a no hands rest and a No.1 friend placement. Continue straight up the slabby wall avoiding the crack on the right which is the finish to Frank's in a Frenzy. Single bolt lower off, four bolts, #1 CD. Tony Burnell, 1997
	Frank’s in a Frenzy	23	10m	0	5
	The left-facing corner right of JJ. Climb the corner past two bolts, haul over the small roof, then up the wall above. Step around the top roof to its left and finish up the crack above (small cam or wire). Damian Carroll
	Mystery	23		0
	Punchy steep face inbetween FF and A4A. Tony Burnell
A4A	Art for Arts Sake	21		1.02	5		1
	Takes a line up the steep rock between Frank's in a Frenzy and Stu Allan. Above the initial roof is a left facing square capped corner. Start down and right, climb to the corner (BR) on slab, move up left to a small shallow scoop (BR), continue straight up over a small roof to good flat holds (BR), continue up passing the fourth bolt till the angle eases, last bolt, finish easily up to a double bolt belay slightly left. Tony Burnell, 1996

UUID:

88a21a2a-112d-494c-8149-2a6f48fa9a1c

Comments

There has been an extra bolt

Permalink Submitted by Simon Courtois on Mon, 12/04/2021 - 19:00

There has been an extra bolt added to the top of Jug Jockey recently. A concerned local has decided it was needed. No attempt was made to see if the first ascensionist agreed with the addition of an extra bolt. Maybe the person that added the extra bolt, could add a handhold of a suitable size? Last year the same discussion took place about adding extra bolts to existing climbs. Some historical routes demand a different level of mental strength. Protection on older climbs should remain as when climbed at the time of the 1st ascent. It is great when the fixed protection is upgraded and that is happening in the Port Hills. In my opinion, older routes should be rebolted, not retrobolted.

(19 routes)

Comments

There has been an extra bolt

Jug jockey. The move from the

Having trouble repositioning

What's the climb inbetween