The often damp roof and its environs. Once the place to hang around, before the discovery of the Cave in Barnett Park on the other side of the hill.
Type:
Wall
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| Fantasia | 17 |
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1 |
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This is just as you come out of the trees. It is a good route apparently. Up the corner and flake.
Rob Rainsbury, 1975
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| Hyperspace | 22 |
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3 |
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The bolted arete L of the cave. Up the arete past 2 bolts (crux), then slightly left and continue up the easier but very run-out wall above: there is just one more bolt and it's quite high.
Ton Snelder, 1991
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| Chocolate Discharge | A2 |
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Aid up the zigzag crack on the L end of the overhang section. Start in a groove, then L, then up. Knifeblades.
Roger Parkyn
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| Arms Race | 24 | 12m |
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6 |
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Start in the R-facing corner L of Gone Bimbo. Straight up to the 4th bolt and join Layer Cake climbing directly to its 5th bolt
Tony Burnell, December 2017
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| Layer Cake | 25 | 12m |
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6 |
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Start as for Gone Bimbo but at the first bolt continue straight up across the roof and up the groove to a DBA.
Tony Burnell
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| Gone Bimbo | 27 | 12m |
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7 |
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The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Often wet. Pull to the fourth bolt then traverse R along the crack. Previously required a cam at the end of the traverse; now there's an extra bolt. There's also a new anchor to the left of the original anchor, which has rusted badly. Numerous variations exist.
Ton Snelder, 1989
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| Carnivore | 27 |
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Start at Mysterious Swine Disease, traversing left across the Gone Bimbo roof and finishing up Peter Carter's variation finish (27).
Peter Taw, 1993
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| Mysterious Swine Disease | 27 |
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7 |
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Strenuous and gymnastic moves (you couldn't tell?) leftwards across the roofs, joining Gone Bimbo just below the anchor.
Pete Taw, 1992
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| Swine Fever | 26 | 11m |
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5 |
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Start as for Mysterious Swine Disease But go straight up to a ledge and right facing corner
Tony Burnell
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| Mega Pump | 27 |
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Do MSD to the last bolt. Go L to CD pro then down GB to where the direct finish exits.
Pete Taw, 1992
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| Kubla Khan | 29 | 15m |
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4 |
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Boulder problem past ring bolt to easier headwall and coldshuts.
Sefton Priestley 2004
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| Creatures of Power | 28 | 15m |
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5 |
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Awkward moves under the roof lead to easier ground.
Peter Taw
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| Scud Muscles | 23 | 10m |
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2 |
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An interesting start with some loose holds gets you to the first bolt. Don't kick off the big ledge! Tackle the small roof at the second bolt, then up easier but looser ground with scant pro to finish in the weeds. Watch out for rope drag.
Dave Fearnley
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| JJ | Jug Jockey | 23 |
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4 |
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1 | ||||
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Start between Scud Muscle and Frank's in a Frenzy. Start up the yellow coloured wall directly below a series of overhangs. Climb easily up to the first bolt, a hard move past the first bolt leads to a huge hold. Surmount the second roof on improving holds and continue up, steep but easy ground past three more bolts. At the top of the shallow right facing corner rock over out left to a no hands rest and a No.1 friend placement. Continue straight up the slabby wall avoiding the crack on the right which is the finish to Frank's in a Frenzy. Single bolt lower off, four bolts, #1 CD.
Tony Burnell, 1997
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| Frank’s in a Frenzy | 23 | 10m |
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5 |
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The left-facing corner right of JJ. Climb the corner past two bolts, haul over the small roof, then up the wall above. Step around the top roof to its left and finish up the crack above (small cam or wire).
Damian Carroll
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| A4A | Art for Arts Sake | 21 |
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5 |
1 | |||||
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Takes a line up the steep rock between Frank's in a Frenzy and Stu Allan. Above the initial roof is a left facing square capped corner. Start down and right, climb to the corner (BR) on slab, move up left to a small shallow scoop (BR), continue straight up over a small roof to good flat holds (BR), continue up passing the fourth bolt till the angle eases, last bolt, finish easily up to a double bolt belay slightly left.
Tony Burnell, 1996
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UUID:
88a21a2a-112d-494c-8149-2a6f48fa9a1c
Comments
There has been an extra bolt
There has been an extra bolt added to the top of Jug Jockey recently. A concerned local has decided it was needed. No attempt was made to see if the first ascensionist agreed with the addition of an extra bolt. Maybe the person that added the extra bolt, could add a handhold of a suitable size? Last year the same discussion took place about adding extra bolts to existing climbs. Some historical routes demand a different level of mental strength. Protection on older climbs should remain as when climbed at the time of the 1st ascent. It is great when the fixed protection is upgraded and that is happening in the Port Hills. In my opinion, older routes should be rebolted, not retrobolted.
Jug jockey. The move from the
Jug jockey. The move from the first bolt no longer leads to a "huge hold." That is long gone. It now leads to a very modest hold. Just saying.
Having trouble repositioning
Having trouble repositioning route order (Swine Fever)
What's the climb inbetween
What's the climb inbetween Frank's in a Frenzy and Art for Arts Sake? Starting by fighting over the bulge and then into a little crimpy section which is followed by jugs to the top finishing next to A4A?