Susie's Slab

(7 routes)

The first wall you come to. Visible from the road.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
U1 Ugly 1 13
0
wire representing trad
The first obvious crack on the small left hand crag, visible from the stile.
Stu Allan, 1972
U2 Ugly 2 16
0
wire representing trad
The second crack, offwidth.
Stu Allan, 1972
SS Susie's Slab 19 7m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
A classic two move wonder with bolt protection on upper part. The red wall right of the Uglies. Proceed directly up the wall to mantleshelf onto large hold, clip bolt, then climb up slightly right on small holds to easier ground. 2-ring anchor. Technically only 19, but gets one grade for the unprotected moves to the bolt. You can arrange a side runner, which whilst it won't keep you off the deck, will mean you hit feet first (as opposed to head first) if you fail on the upper mantle.
Merv English, 1983
Pumping Susie 23 7m
0
2bolts
Delicate face climbing, moving left from the first bolt of Pumping Velvet. Alternatively, start below the small shelf just above head height and mantle onto it, thread the hangerless bolt, then trend left up the thin face. Either step right and clip the top bolt of pumping velvet (hard!) then trend left again, or (easier!) continue leftwards towards the finish of Susie's Slab, with the option of reaching left to clip Susie's bolt. Shares the two-ring anchor of Susie's Slab.
Marcus Thomas, 2003
PV Pumping Velvet 23 7m
2.01
2bolts 2
Starts up a slight crack right of Susie’s Slab. Hard layaways lead to a long reach out right to a (relative) jug, continue up to next bolt. Either step about a metre right then follow the crimpers trending back left to the top, or continue directly up from the 2nd bolt (harder). A really good route. 2 bolts, no anchor, but the anchor of Susie's Slab is OK for top-roping if you use a long sling.
Ton Snelder, 1984
CS Cheap Shoes Don't Kill 24
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Climb direct over the rooflet right of Pumping Velvet. Tie your belayer down to the left so the wire at the break protects the move. No reaching into the gully.
Tony Ward-Holmes
Neophyte 13 10m
0
wire representing trad
The black chimney. Hardly catholic.

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Comments

Someone has removed one of the two anchor rings at the top of Susie's Slab. Since this anchor is so easily accessible to any spanner-wielding member of Joe Public, it's probably a good candidate to be replaced by a couple of staples.

I think Neophyte (described as a 10m black chimney) belongs on the next buttress: the Susie buttress has no chimney and it's only 7m high.