Feeding Time Wall

(11 routes)

tba

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Whitless 20
0
wire representing trad
The horrible bulging arĂȘte left of Prophet of Doom. Grovel fearfully up on suspect rock. At least one early attempt resulted in the removal of a considerable amount of WHIT'S shin when a foothold broke off. Spaced pro, and a lot of it's not very good. Only really 17 but gets one grade for grovellyness and two for suspect rock.
Lindsay Main '82
PD Prophet of Doom 23
1.02
5bolts
Climb directly up a small prow 1.5m left of the start of Feeding Time past a bolt then directly up the wall past 4 more bolts (crux at the horizontal break) to a double bolt belay. Strenuous and fingery at and above the break, slightly easier towards the top.
Simon Middlemass 1990
FZ Feeding Time At The Zoo 21 12m
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad 2
The faint line through the overhang on the left of the wall. Follow up the crack line on good holds, a good runner (5 hex is perfect !!) just on overlap protects hard moves to gain a horizontal break (crux). Clip the bolt above the break and proceed with gradually pumping arms up steep wall/groove above (natural pro: small-to-medium wires). Anchor chains just below the top.
Joe Arts '82
D Driftnet 22 13m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad 1
Climb the wall right of FTATZ into the shallow scoop, clip the bolt and execute devious moves to gain the finger slot. Crank up to the somewhat disappointing ledge, then grovel up 'til you're standing on it. Place smallish cams in the horizontal break or the diagonal crack just left. The original finish (recommended; sustained and technically interesting) goes straight up and now has a bolt - hardish moves to get established in the 'dimple', then easier climbing to the top. There's also an optional nut placement high on Promised Land. The alternate finish is to climb the shallow groove on the left to an RP placement, then move back right to the belay. Shares double bolt belay with Promised Land.
Ton Snelder '89
PL The Promised Land 17 13m
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad
Right of Driftnet Climb the wall under the arch until you can clip a bolt and pull over the bulge. Runners in middle break protect moves up right to flake top then climb with care up top section to a double bolt belay to the left
Lindsay Main 1983
S Steppenwolf 14
0
wire representing trad
The wall and crack right of P.L.
Paul Drake '75
C Calling All Sport Climbers 17
0
2bolts
Climb Steppenwolf to the ledge then follow a faint weakness between Steppenwolf and Restless.
Joe Arts 1989
AA An Alpinist answers 19
0
2bolts
Wall L of Restless
John Entwisle
R Restless 18
1.02
2bolts
Steeper than it looks !! and with a sting in the tail.From the ledge starts up the weakness in the middle of the red wall with 2 ring bolts
Joe Arts '82
M Mistery 17
0
3bolts
Traverse same ledge rightwards past Restless, clip first bolt on Restless then up past 2 bolts on the line proper.A small cam possible at top bulge
Simon Middlemass 2000
Porcupine 15 16m
0
wire representing trad
The tussocky crack right of the Restless wall. Use the bottom bolt on Restless to protect the traverse. Nice moves on good holds although the pro thins out a little towards the top and the belay can be awkward. CDs are useful.
Al Hay, 1977

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