Mr Clean Wall

(11 routes)


Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
BT Drop Out 21
Start as for Bombs Away to the second bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb the arête past four bolts to its highest point; belay as for DTB.
Tony Burnell
BA Bombs Away 22
3bolts wire representing trad 3
Not as slabby as it looks – very steep in fact. Start in bushes at left. A few desperate tree moves allow rock contact and bring the first bolt within clipping distance (pro available before the first bolt), tricky moves lead up to next bolt, an easier section follows. The headwall is tricky but pumped arms can be rested at the obvious rest. Double bolt belay over the top and back a bit.
Joe Arts, 1983
DTB Drop the Bomb 26
The deceptively steep groove to the R of Bombs Away. Up past the bolt, then up crack line and R at the top.
Dave Fearnley, 1987
CF Clip or Fly 24
4bolts wire representing trad
The prow left of Scratching Julius. Shares the same start.
Peter Taw, 1991
SJ Scratching Julius 21
The obvious steep crack at the left end of the face. Technically only grade 17 climbing, but extremely sustained and powerful. Finish straight up (although R is easier). Good pro. Bolt chain belay at top of Bombs Away.
John Visser, 1981
FA Filet of Arnold 25
Pumpy climbing on good spaced holds. Four bolts.
Ton Snelder, 1989
Stars and Stripes 23 19m
The weakness 3m R of Scratching Julius. An old aid climb. Follow the crack past a bolt to a wire fixed to one of the old aid bolts. Move around L and up the crack line. Continue to top.
Steve Schneider, 1987
MC Getting Rid of Mr Clean 23 19m
Better than a work out at the gym. Strenuous and pumping. Start as for previous climb, but at the fixed wire continue straight up the wall to a further bolt protecting the top section. Bolt and chain anchor.
Ton Snelder, 1984
CK Citizen Kane 22
The obvious crack line R of Mr Clean. A bolt at the start protects the crux, which is followed by a pump to the top. Good pro – though hanging around to get it in can be fun. Strenuous, so go fast. Has been top-roped by John Chambers in 52 seconds. Shares belay with Mr Clean.
Joe Arts, 1984
Tupping Cecil 20 16m
The line to the R of Citizen Kane. Sustained, with good pro.
Pete Sykes, 1987
Hornets Nest 14
Just left of the descent gully.
Lindsay Main

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