Ataturk Wall

(20 routes)

About 50m right of the gully is the Ataturk Wall. This wall is 100m right from the main crag, along DOC's Highway 1.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
ER Easter Rising 22
0
6bolts wire representing trad
Start as for A4A, then move right after the first bolt and up the weakness to a ledge capped by a roof (cam or medium wire pro). Start up the corner as for Stu Allan Memorial Roof, then out left to bolt on face, straight up headwall past one more bolt, then left onto the arete at the top. A shorter variant (21; 4 bolts) steps left to the A4A anchor when you reach the ledge.
Tony Burnell 2002
SAR Stu Allan Memorial Roof 23
0
On the R end of the roof. The overhang and the R-hand leaning corner above
Joe Arts, 1989
Location, Location, Location 24
0
6bolts
Start as for ‘Stu Alan Memorial Roof’” to the ledge. Move right and down to the lip of the roof that forms the steep top arête, reach round the corner and clip BR. Swing round to the steep face and climb direct up the arête left of “Bridging Over Lyttelton”. Above the third bolt reach up into a blind crack finishing awkwardly to easier ground.
Tony Burnell, 2003
BOL Bridging over Lyttelton 26
1.02
Start as for SAMR, go right and through small roof onto the upper face. Climb the groove above.
Rod Newburn '96
Tl Timberlands 24
0
5bolts
Start about three metres right of "Bridging Over Lyttelton" directly below a steep overhanging groove. Beat a path up the wall between the trees to the base of the groove. Difficult moves into the groove lead to good holds. At the top of the groove swing out left onto the face and good holds lead to a no hands rest. Continue up a short vertical wall onto easier, but lichen covered, rock joining "Bridging Over Lyttelton" at it's last bolt. Finish as for "B.O.L."
Tony Burnell '97
SD Striking Distance 27
1.02
4bolts
The steep wall/groove to the right of Timberlands. Climb the dead tree to reach the first bolt, then up on painful, crimpy things.
Tony Burnell '97
DML Dead Men Don't Lie 18
0
wire representing trad
Up a corner, a sloping layback and then an awkward mantleshelf. Straight up or sneak out L. Not a Castle Hill 18 so watch out.
Lindsay Main '89
D Diablo 21 24m
0
9bolts
Start at the corner, then move left across the face to the arete. Find your way staying just right of the arete continuing up the slab past the flake then over the bulge, and finishing up the corner system past the bolts.
Grant Piper 02
AG Avant Garage 22 24m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start at the Left facing corner with the wide crack, following the crack straight up to the top and through to the open book corner.
Joe Arts '89
FC A Futile Campian 21 24m
0
7bolts 1
Follows the line of staples, starting at the small nose to gain the lower ledge. Climb the pillar from the ledge going up directly under the roof. Exit leftwards up a ramp to the corner to left of the roof and then finish up the headwall to left and onto the rap station.
Joe Arts '89
SR Sportroute 19 22m
0
6bolts
Climb past the first hanger to gain the ledge, then climb the vague pillar, (shares the start of ASA) go leftwards at the 3rd bolt then up the corner then back rightwards to avoid the roof, exit up the slab to the DoWE rap station.
AS Ataturk Strikes Again 19 18m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Start up onto ledge 2m above the start. Climb the vague pillar as for previous route, traverse rightwards at the 3rd bolt across a line of jugs to the corner, follow up the corner, veer rightwards up to the rap chains that are used for Rock Shocks. (twin ropes would be useful).
Joe Arts '89
WE Dream of White Elephants 21 22m
0
6bolts
The climb intersects Ataturk Strikes Again. Start on the Rock Shock approach ramp, veer leftwards to a small ledge then rock over the small roof to gain another small ledge. Jug haul through to the bottom of the ASA corner, but go leftwards carrying out a few slab moves then directly up to the top of small fin.
Grant Piper 2016
RS Rock Shock 23 18m
1.02
4bolts
about 15m to the left of SM/CM. Easy moves to the first bolt, then a battle with slopers to the last bolt. Above the last bolt you can either swing left onto easy ground, or carry on up on the right via bridging.Quite sustained.
Kynnan Bazley '97
The Mother of all Session Routes 18 ,20
0
wire representing trad
climb up and R into the cave with the tree
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mYes
 climb up and R into the cave with the tree
2200mYes
 either way out of the cave and up Lionel Clay & Tony Stempa
DG Disillusions of Grandeur 20 18m
1.02
6bolts 1
Start up wall to LHS of cave in upper crag. Move slightly right at 3rd bolt and into cave exiting out left of cave (as per MOSR ) to anchor Station.
Grant Piper 2011
SM Salome Maloney 23 20m
1.02
5bolts
Sart left of "Colonel Malone", move up onto a pedestal (BR.) below a small roof. Climb directly over the roof (easiest to the right of the bolt) using positive holds to reach huge jugs (BR). Continue directly up the wall past the third bolt to the fourth bolt, although it is easier to move towards the 18 to the left. After clipping the fourth bolt difficult moves up the front face of the obvious tower lead to a slight alcove, then on good holds over the top.
Tony Burnell '96
CM Colonel Malone 22
1.02
4bolts
Near the right end of the crag, just left of the wide gully. Stand on convenient block to clip first bolt, then straight up the steep face to a hard move through a bulge just above the last bolt.
Joe Arts '89
PA Pimple on the Arse of the Universe 18 15m
0
3bolts
Originally done as a route-bag done only to compete with Lindsay Main (which is impossible).Has had rockfall from 13/7/11 earthquake at the bottom. Follow corner system onto shelf then carry on up the corner to the top and rap station.
Joe Arts '89
SS Stainless Sproutings 15 15m
0
4bolts
Start up the small slab to the right facing corner the up the wall and out leftwards to the shared rap station with PA

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