Huntsbury Spur Crag

(33 routes)

Perched on the side of Huntsbury Hill, this small west-facing crag is visible from the Summit Road as one drives east from Sugarloaf

Climbing

The climbs are clustered together on the highest and cleanest part of the crag. The rock is trachyte and is mostly solid, with excellent friction, but is a bit dirty in places because of the small number of ascents. Most routes are bolted, but there are also some with natural pro. The climbs are about 8-15 metres long.

Some of the climbs are being modernised with more fixed protection.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
300m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
10 Min
Access: 

Access
The crag is on the west side of Huntsbury Spur, just below the airfield. From town go up Parklands Drive or Ramahama Road to Huntsbury Ave and up to the end of the road. Walk or drive up the track to the airfield, where the track swings east to head towards the Summit Road. Head west from the spur and the crag should be immediately seen to the right. Alternatively you can descend from the Summit Road, or walk or bike up the Bowenvale Track.
The whole area is owned by the City Council, so access is not a problem.
Please DO NOT climb on the area between Thermaling Hawks and Killing Moon. Routes there have already been climbed, and the vegetation is being rehabilitated.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.591039000000, 172.659539000000
NZMS260: 
M36 825 351
Topo50: 
BX24 725 735
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
After The Goldrush 17
0
wire representing trad
A prominent jam crack on the left edge of the cliff. The rock is better than it looks.
Lindsay Main, 1997
Everyone Should Have a Hobby 11
0
wire representing trad
Climb easy ground to the left of the arête, and up the crack.
Lindsay Main, 1997
Unnamed 12
0
2bolts
Between the cracks, with two staples.
Joe Arts, 2016
Photo Opportunity 14
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Arete with one bolt on the right, crack on the left for pro as well. Good photo op.
Adrienne McLeod, 1997
Innovation 19
0
to the right of the arete, takes a broken line with a small roof near the top (crux). Natural pro, some of which is good. Double ropes recommended. Joe Arts, Feb '97
Scraping The Barrel 16 12m
0
wire representing trad
Start below Innovation and bridge up he lichenous wall with rounded holds, trending left to the crack. Bridge up the groove and finish on the arete.
Alan Hill, 1997
Pack It In 12
0
on the left edge of the next wall. Shares a bolt with the next route. Finish all the way to the top of the cliff or wander off. A CD can be used in the crack to the right to protect the exit. Joe Arts, Feb '97
PNS Pack'n'Save 15 8m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Takes a weakness in the centre of the wall, just right of the bolt (there's also a variation which goes straight up past the bolt). Good moves with natural pro in the crack. Two ropes useful. Double chain at the top.
Adrien McLeod, Feb '97
Hedge Your Bets 15
0
wire representing trad
Five metres right on a mungy part of the crag is a stepped left-facing corner. Up this and through the hedgerow to the final crack directly up the headwall (take wires and secateurs).
Alan Hill, 1997
LS Lazy Days of Summer 16 8m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
a metre to the right, with one bolt and natural pro. Good if committing moves above the bolt. Move left to the anchor chains.
Adrien McLeod, Feb '97
Offsider 14
0
wire representing trad
Boulder up the rounded wall with minimal protection, pass the hedgerow on its right, and climb through the notch in the headwall.
Hamish Reid, 1997
TH Thermalling Hawks 17 8m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Left-leaning feature with one old bolt and two staples. Move left to the chains.
Adrienne McLeod, 1997
Scullery Maid 11
0
wire representing trad
Just right is this slab which was soloed carrying a petrol drill. Also used as a descent route. There is potential for protection.
Joe Arts, 1997
KM Killing Moon 23 13m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
The slab climb moves onto a steep headwall with a groove to assist topping out.
Joe Arts, '96
PP The Price of Progress 17 12m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Just right of the grassy descent gully there's a steep left-leaning ramp with an overhanging right wall. Clip the bolt and make the move up left. Continue rightward to anchor.
Joe Arts, Oct '96
DR Dry Bush Road 17 12m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad 1
The left side of the brown groove. A steep groove and crack with 4 bolts (the top one is shared with TOTTL). Exit up the crack slightly to the right.
Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96
CH Coronation Hospital 21 12m
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
The brown groove with 4 bolts featuring steep bridging. You can step right after clipping the 4th bolt, or make it harder by finishing directly.
Joe Arts, Oct '96
Albatross Arms 21 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
An overhanging left-leaning groove with one bolt and natural pro above. Power move past the bolt, then it's cruisy.
Joe Arts, Oct '96
MM Macrae's Mining 19
0
4bolts
Start through a small overhang. Thought-provoking moves past the bolts, and a tricky move on the quake scar where there used to be a nice crack. Exit to chains on the right.
Joe Arts, 1996
Bolt From The Blue 15
0
3bolts
Originally started as for Thermalling Hawks, but now has its own staples to enable a direct start and on up the arête.
Alan Hill, 1997
Whistlestop Arête 20
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Directly up the arête on the right side, using the first two bolts of Dry Bush Road. Natural protection higher up.
Alan Hill, 1997
The Go-between 22 12m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
start below the shrun and clip the first bolt on MM. Up the crack (natural pro) and onto the arete, exiting right. Awkward and rather crumbly, two ropes are useful
Joe Arts, Jan '97
I'm A Lumberjack 14
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Clip the first bolt on Killing Moon and move right and climb the crack.
Alan Hill, 2005
Ea Edna 18 12m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Technical moves on a steep wall past two bolts. From the ledge clip a third bolt on the top wall, move up, and step left to anchor chains.
Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96
Variation of Edna 17
0
2bolts wire representing trad
A metre right with one bolt on the lower wall. Use the edge at right to assist upward movement. Then clip the bolt on the top wall and move up on the right to anchor chains.
Adrienne McLeod, 1996
HA Huntsbury Ave 19 12m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
A couple of metres right is an older bolt with two staples above. Up onto the quake scar, then exit directly or to the right.
Joe Arts, 1996
The Dominion Workers' Party 12 12m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Goes up the quake scar on the low angle rock.
Joe Arts, 16
Southpower Direct 12
0
3bolts
Originally much harder before most of it fell off. This is up the quake scar, starting on the right and trending left to the chain, following the line of least resistance. The bolts are placed somewhat to the right to take advantage of the best rock.
Joe Arts, 1996 and 2016
Road Access 13
0
the easy corner and crack. Natural pro along with a bolt. Exit left or straight up. Joe Arts, Nov '96
Broken Turbine 15
0
tow metres right is this small wall with a reachy move past a bolt. Up over the scrub to a double chain anchor. Joe Arts, Feb '97
Look-see 16
0
1
ten metres right is a small wall with two bolts. Good climbing on positive holds to a single bolt chain beside a CD placement. Joe Arts, Feb '97
Leaf Blower 14 20m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
The longest climb at the crag & the first one you come to at the bottom of the access gulley. Climb the arete on a mix of loose and good rock. (More of the former in some opinions). Anchor to a huge horn above the visible loose boulder with a long sling.
FFA, Hamish Castle & Justin Hall, 28 Oct 2018
Crumbs! 14
0
1 wire representing trad
On the far right side of the crag past the crumbly buttress is this short corner facing south.
Tony Billing, 1997
Attribution: 
Information by Lindsay Main, Previously hosted on website by John Davis

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