Huntsbury Spur Crag

A prominent jam crack on the left edge of the cliff. The rock is better than it looks.

Climb easy ground to the left of the arête, and up the crack.

Between the cracks, with two staples.

Arete with one bolt on the right, crack on the left for pro as well. Good photo op.

to the right of the arete, takes a broken line with a small roof near the top (crux). Natural pro, some of which is good. Double ropes recommended. Joe Arts, Feb '97

Start below Innovation and bridge up he lichenous wall with rounded holds, trending left to the crack. Bridge up the groove and finish on the arete.

on the left edge of the next wall. Shares a bolt with the next route. Finish all the way to the top of the cliff or wander off. A CD can be used in the crack to the right to protect the exit. Joe Arts, Feb '97

Takes a weakness in the centre of the wall, just right of the bolt (there's also a variation which goes straight up past the bolt). Good moves with natural pro in the crack. Two ropes useful. Double chain at the top.

Five metres right on a mungy part of the crag is a stepped left-facing corner. Up this and through the hedgerow to the final crack directly up the headwall (take wires and secateurs).

a metre to the right, with one bolt and natural pro. Good if committing moves above the bolt. Move left to the anchor chains.

Boulder up the rounded wall with minimal protection, pass the hedgerow on its right, and climb through the notch in the headwall.

Left-leaning feature with one old bolt and two staples. Move left to the chains.

Just right is this slab which was soloed carrying a petrol drill. Also used as a descent route. There is potential for protection.

The slab climb moves onto a steep headwall with a groove to assist topping out.

Just right of the grassy descent gully there's a steep left-leaning ramp with an overhanging right wall. Clip the bolt and make the move up left. Continue rightward to anchor.

The left side of the brown groove. A steep groove and crack with 4 bolts (the top one is shared with TOTTL). Exit up the crack slightly to the right.

The brown groove with 4 bolts featuring steep bridging. You can step right after clipping the 4th bolt, or make it harder by finishing directly.

An overhanging left-leaning groove with one bolt and natural pro above. Power move past the bolt, then it's cruisy.

Start through a small overhang. Thought-provoking moves past the bolts, and a tricky move on the quake scar where there used to be a nice crack. Exit to chains on the right.

Originally started as for Thermalling Hawks, but now has its own staples to enable a direct start and on up the arête.

Directly up the arête on the right side, using the first two bolts of Dry Bush Road. Natural protection higher up.

start below the shrun and clip the first bolt on MM. Up the crack (natural pro) and onto the arete, exiting right. Awkward and rather crumbly, two ropes are useful

Clip the first bolt on Killing Moon and move right and climb the crack.

Technical moves on a steep wall past two bolts. From the ledge clip a third bolt on the top wall, move up, and step left to anchor chains.

A metre right with one bolt on the lower wall. Use the edge at right to assist upward movement. Then clip the bolt on the top wall and move up on the right to anchor chains.

A couple of metres right is an older bolt with two staples above. Up onto the quake scar, then exit directly or to the right.

Goes up the quake scar on the low angle rock.

Originally much harder before most of it fell off. This is up the quake scar, starting on the right and trending left to the chain, following the line of least resistance. The bolts are placed somewhat to the right to take advantage of the best rock.

the easy corner and crack. Natural pro along with a bolt. Exit left or straight up. Joe Arts, Nov '96

tow metres right is this small wall with a reachy move past a bolt. Up over the scrub to a double chain anchor. Joe Arts, Feb '97

ten metres right is a small wall with two bolts. Good climbing on positive holds to a single bolt chain beside a CD placement. Joe Arts, Feb '97

The longest climb at the crag & the first one you come to at the bottom of the access gulley. Climb the arete on a mix of loose and good rock. (More of the former in some opinions). Anchor to a huge horn above the visible loose boulder with a long sling.