Place info
Huntsbury Spur Crag
(23 routes)
Perched on the side of Huntsbury Hill, this small west-facing crag is visible from the Summit Road as one drives east from Sugarloaf
Climbing
The climbs are clustered together on the highest and cleanest part of the crag. The rock is trachyte and is mostly solid, with excellent friction, but is a bit dirty in places because of the small number of ascents. Most routes use a mix of bolts and natural pro. The climbs are about 8-15 metres long. There are six anchor stations at the top - four of them use double bolts and chains, but two combine a single chain with a convenient hex or cd placement. A mid-sized CD is useful on many routes.
The crag is free of the elitism found elsewhere in that even the easy routes are well protected, with bolts where necessary. With grades ranging from 11 to 23 there's something for everyone, but not many routes at any particular grade.
Some of the climbs are being modernised with more fixed protection.
NOTE: The four climbs between 'Edna' and 'Broken Turbine' have been destroyed by the earthquakes.
- West
Aspect
- 10 Min
Walk in
- 300m
Altitude
Perched on the side of Huntsbury Hill, this small west-facing crag is visible from the Summit Road as one drives east from Sugarloaf
Climbing
The climbs are clustered together on the highest and cleanest part of the crag. The rock is trachyte and is mostly solid, with excellent friction, but is a bit dirty in places because of the small number of ascents. Most routes use a mix of bolts and natural pro. The climbs are about 8-15 metres long. There are six anchor stations at the top - four of them use double bolts and chains, but two combine a single chain with a convenient hex or cd placement. A mid-sized CD is useful on many routes.
The crag is free of the elitism found elsewhere in that even the easy routes are well protected, with bolts where necessary. With grades ranging from 11 to 23 there's something for everyone, but not many routes at any particular grade.
Some of the climbs are being modernised with more fixed protection.
NOTE: The four climbs between 'Edna' and 'Broken Turbine' have been destroyed by the earthquakes.
Access
The crag is on the west side of Huntsbury Spur, just below the airfield. From town go up Parklands Drive or Ramahama Road to Huntsbury Ave and up to the end of the road. Walk or drive up the track to the airfield, where the track swings east to head towards the Summit Road. Head west from the spur and the crag should be immediately seen to the right. Alternatively you can descend from the Summit Road, or walk or bike up the Bowenvale Track.
The whole area is owned by the City Council, so access is not a problem.
Please DO NOT climb on the area between Thermaling Hawks and Killing Moon.
They have already been climbed, and the vegetation is being rehabilitated.
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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17
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| a prominent jam crack on the left edge of the cliff. The rock is better than it looks. Lindsay Main, Feb '97 | |||||||||||
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14
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| arete with one bolt on the right, crack on the left for pro as well. Good photo op. Adrien McLeod, Feb '97 | |||||||||||
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19
|
|
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| to the right of the arete, takes a broken line with a small roof near the top (crux). Natural pro, some of which is good. Double ropes recommended. Joe Arts, Feb '97 | |||||||||||
|
12
|
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| on the left edge of the next wall. Shares a bolt with the next route. Finish all the way to the top of the cliff or wander off. A CD can be used in the crack to the right to protect the exit. Joe Arts, Feb '97 | |||||||||||
|
PNS
|
15
|
|
8m
|
1
 |
 |
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Takes a weakness in the centre of the wall, just right of the bolt (there's also a variation which goes straight up past the bolt). Good moves with natural pro in the crack. Two ropes useful. Double chain at the top. Adrien McLeod, Feb '97 |
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|
LS
|
16
|
|
8m
|
1
|
|
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a metre to the right, with one bolt and natural pro. Good if committing moves above the bolt. Move left to the anchor chains. Adrien McLeod, Feb '97 |
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|
TH
|
17
|
|
8m
|
1
|
|
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one bolt, natural pro (wires plus #2 friend) up to two bolt chains. Adrien McLeod |
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|
KM
|
23
|
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13m
|
2
|
|
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The slab climb moves onto a steep headwall with a groove to assist topping out. Joe Arts, '96 |
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|
PP
|
17
|
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12m
|
1
|
|
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Just right of the grassy descent gully there's a steep left-leaning ramp with an overhanging right wall. Clip the bolt and make the move up left. Continue rightward to anchor. Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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|
DR
|
17
|
|
12m
|
5
|
|
1
|
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|
The left side of the brown groove. A steep groove and crack with 4 bolts (the top one is shared with TOTTL). Exit up the crack slightly to the right. Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96 |
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|
CH
|
21
|
|
12m
|
5
|
|
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The brown groove with 4 bolts featuring steep bridging. You can step right after clipping the 4th bolt, or make it harder by finishing directly. Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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21
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|
12m
|
2
|
|
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An overhanging left-leaning groove with one bolt and natural pro above. Power move past the bolt, then it's cruisy. Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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|
MM
|
19
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|
4
|
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Start a metre left of a small shrub about three metres up the wall. Thought-provoking moves past the bolts, CD at the top. A bit dirty at present but it will clean up nicely. Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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22
|
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12m
|
1
|
|
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start below the shrun and clip the first bolt on MM. Up the crack (natural pro) and onto the arete, exiting right. Awkward and rather crumbly, two ropes are useful Joe Arts, Jan '97 |
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|
Ea
|
18
|
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12m
|
4
|
|
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Technical moves on a steep wall past two bolts. From the ledge clip a third bolt on the top wall, move up, and step left to anchor chains. Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96 |
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18
|
|
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| A metre right with one bolt on the lower wall. Use the edge at right to assist upward movement. Then clip the bolt on the top wall and move up on the right to anchor chains. Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96 | |||||||||||
|
HA
|
20
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|
12m
|
4
|
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A couple of metres right is an obvious crack with a gnarly-looking block sticking out. Shove a CD in against this and charge up the crack. Exit through the quake scar Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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12
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12m
|
5
|
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Goes up the quake scar on the low angle rock. Joe Arts, 16 |
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20
|
|
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| the arete to the right. The first ascent used the crack to the right for pro, along with the bolt to the right for the last moves. Alternately, you can now clip the bolts on the left. Joe Arts, Nov '96 | |||||||||||
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13
|
|
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| the easy corner and crack. Natural pro along with a bolt. Exit left or straight up. Joe Arts, Nov '96 | |||||||||||
|
15
|
|
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| tow metres right is this small wall with a reachy move past a bolt. Up over the scrub to a double chain anchor. Joe Arts, Feb '97 | |||||||||||
|
16
|
|
1
|
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| ten metres right is a small wall with two bolts. Good climbing on positive holds to a single bolt chain beside a CD placement. Joe Arts, Feb '97 | |||||||||||
