Trapdoor Cliff

(9 routes)

This is the section of cliff to the right of the Thrutch chimney.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Wasp 19 5m
Obvious crack a metre right of the Thrutch chimney. There is a direct start on the wall below, though most people start as for Thrutch and bash through the vege. Then climb the overhanging crack. John Allen '79
Pedestal 16
Start up a steep groove below a broadleaf, or two metres right, to the large sloping ledge. Then up a thin crack to a horizontal break; some pro possible. Lindsay Main '97
Trapdoor 12
Six metres right of Wasp, up a clean corner that divides the cliff and over the broom; then right at the top on a slab to skirt the overhang with an exposed move to finish. Some pro.
Pepper-pot 17
Start as for Trapdoor and climb the corner with protection from the crack on the right. Place pro in slots over the bulge and move right; then step left on to the slab.  Joe Arts '98
Treadmill 12
Two metres right of Trapdoor, up an inclined corner tending slightly right to exit up a wide crack at the top. Lindsay Main '72
Blackbeard 16
Start a metre right at a small broken corner. Up to a small ledge below an overlap, and pull through on good small holds. Rather dirty but good pro. Lindsay Main '97
Fusilier 13
Takes a crack up the right side of the cliff over some large flakes. Good pro. Lindsay Main '79
Dicey 19
There is a displaced Castle Hill-style boulder problem on the left of the large bulging cube. Start on small holds followed by an awkward mantle at the lip of the roof. From the ledge move right and up. No pro, don't land on the rocks. Phil Stuart-Jones '97
Mercenary 12
Between this cliff and Exhibition Wall is this wide undercut chimney with several broom bushes. Steep bridging through the roof, then it's easy.  Phil Stuart-Jones '97