The Cave

(5 routes)

The cultural hub of Castle Rock, The Cave is the place most climbers seem to congregate to pass the time or escape the weather. There's also some damned hard routes starting out of here.

Altitude: 
350m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
CJ Court Jester 20 12m
2.01
The prominent permachalked crack in the roof of The Cave. Swing up on big holds and solid wrist jams (crux) to an undercut hold and reach over lip to bucket. Above the lip either go straight up or diagonally R (both straightforward). Finishes at base of Curtain Wall. Strenuous but good pro.
Colin Dodge, 1972
Thick as a Brick 20 12m
0
Start as for Court Jester through overhang then move L along ledge and up around corner.
Tim Morrison, 1981
CR Cave Route 26 12m
1.02
Move out R from the start of Court Jester via technical and powerful moves. Above the bolt more trick moves eventually lead back to Court Jester (bolt usually preclipped). No other pro 'til it's all over.
Ton Snelder and Dave Fearnley, 1984
Pack of Lies 23 12m
0
tack someone else's pack under the holds in the centre of The Cave. A few pulls lead to easier climbing. Essentially unprotected.
Dave Fearnley, 1983
PP Passion Play 23 12m
1.02
1
Starts on R side of Cave at prominent crack. Moves L to a rest then out to a good under-cling (large CD). Crank on small holds over lip to fingerlock and jugs. Move L and finish as for Court Jester or move straight up through buttress to the bottom of Arrow. Strenuous.
John Allen, 1979