Right Side of Cave

(19 routes)

Several routes on this wall were destroyed in the 22 Fberuary 2011 Christchurch earthquake, when Curtain Wall and the Keep collapsed. Probably the most popular wall at Castle Rock – many of these climbs have become slippery after years of people climbing them.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Merlon 16 12m
Gain the Kestrel groove via reachy moves on the steep wall at the right hand end of the cave, then go straight up the slab left of Kestrel.
KS Kestrel 12 11m
wire representing trad
The left-leaning crackline/groove on the right-hand edge of the main cave. The crux is to join the iceplant in the groove by climbing the slippery black crack, or do a few moves up Hawk and a long step left. The route ends on the Aviary ledges. Worthwhile pro is only available above the crux or in Hawk. Combined with Arrow this makes a classic first lead. Hardest at the bottom, though many beginners find the traverse left (to Arrow) freaky.
Flight of Fancy 17 10m
wire representing trad
Another 'fill-in', this time up the arete between Kestrel and Hawk. use any of at least three variations to reach the harder moves at the top. Pro in Kestrel, so a fall will hurt...
Lindsay Main, 1979
H Hawk 12 10m
wire representing trad
The second groove/crack right of the cave. Slippery and unpleasant with some spaced pro. Inevitable guano from the pigeons in Eagle Cleft. Finish on the Aviary ledges.
Neil Hamilton, 1940s
Tammy Wynette Arête 21 12m
The arete between Hawk and Gargoyle, keeping largely to the right hand side. Not surprisingly, it’s not entirely independent. Pro in Gargoyle.
Ton Snelder, 1992
G Gargoyle
The third groove right of the cave and one of the more variable routes here, with a groove/crack, wall, overhang, and crack. At the top of the groove, trend rightward to the main overhang (a rest can be taken on the ledges to the left). Place some good pro at the overhang then layback or bridge your way over. Head up easier ground to the belay at the left-curving ledge with the rusty ring piton. Good pro but watch for loose stuff on the traverse R. Sustained with 2-3 cruxes.
Between A Rock And A Hard Face 19 12m
The thin face and arête between Gargoyle and Mihrab. Hardest part is getting off the deck. Pro in Mihrab. Left out of 'Canterbury Rock' as "too contrived", but no more so than Repeat Defeat or many other routes. Paul Jackson
M Mihrab
Fight the increasing polish up the thin wall (22ish) to the ledge at 4 metres or step right from the remains of Gargoyle's pedastal. Use the thin crack and wall to its left to rise, and exit via the Expedition Crack cave, or continue up the groove between featured blocks to the main roof system before stepping right to the ledge below The Keep (or carry on up Gargoyle). For pro, thread the pegs with a wire, tape, or cord and/or use small wires/RPs and microcams in the crack.
Repeat Defeat 21 8m
Up face and small arête between mihrab and expedition crack. A bit contrived but excellent bouldery climbing. Good pro in expedition crack (#0 cam useful). Sustained. Joe Arts '81
EC Expedition Crack
The very polished and slippery left-leaning overlap at the right hand end of the 'Mihrab Slab'. The crux bulge at one-third height can be laybacked, bridged, or thugged, then layback the crack to the cave with bollard and pigeons(!). Exit by climbing the right side of the cave to top out onto the ledge below the Keep. Alternatively, rap off the cave bollard. Pro adequate. Strenuous for the technique-impaired. Murray Jones '71
Sid Vicious Arête 21 11m
Up the bulging arête, then up (crux) off thin holds for good jugs at edge of pock and up the easier angled arête above. No pro 'til you're past the hard bit - pro above that by leaning into Buttress Corner. Thin and sustained. Dave Fearnley '79
BCR Buttress Corner 17 11m
wire representing trad
No longer a corner but rather a finger crack due to half the route falling off. Go up crack with good wires to Half Way Ledge with DBB. Old Description- Gaining the groove has been made much more difficult due to excavation, hold removal, and polish. Scant pro (poor RPs) protects the committing moves up slippery holds to reach the groove and a rest above the bulge. A spotter (or two) is recommended. Pro and holds improve markedly above the bulge. Go straight up the groove or chicken out right at the flake.
BS Burnt at the Stake 15 12m
Climb up slab past 4 bolts to Half Height ledge and DBB.
I Inquisition 17 11m
Inquisition was destroyed by the 22 February 2011 Christchurch earthquake. Layback and smear up slab and arête to roof, then move left and up the arête and slab to top. No pro before roof, good above that. Alternatively start a few feet further right (14 and good pro).
P Pegasus
Up the easy crack to a small roof (crux) then up the easy wide cleft. Good pro.
Moat 9 10m
Start as for Pegasus but move R and up the obvious easy line.
Apollo 19 9m
The L exit from the small roof at the L side of the slabs. Technical jamming. Two left arms are an advantage. Murray Judge '78
Petrel 19 9m
Goes over roof on quite reasonable holds, but contrived climbing. Stay on the same line above roof. No pro 'til it's far to late. Bill Atkinson
Orgasm 16 8m
The R exit (crux) from the small roof leads to a wide crack. Takes a bit of getting there and it's over too soon.

This place appears in



grubbie's picture

Added Topo