Left Side of Cave

(9 routes)

This area is a fairly steep slab with a vertical wall at its L end. The climbing is mostly in balance and fingery rather than strenuous.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Gumby Snot 18 7m
up the easy layback crack left of Corkscrew.
Corkscrew 20 7m
From the ledge, move right and up the steep wall to a good layback hold, then straight up and over the top. Small wires all over the place. Sustained.
Marc Bolan Memorial Arête 19 13m
The rounded arete between Corkscrew and Escalade. Good wires in Escalade for the bottom half, and two marginal RPs just before the top crux - quite bold and sustained. Some people move onto the right-hand face at about half-height for a few moves - somewhat easier and allows better pro (by stepping right to the escalade pro crack).
John Allen, 1978
Escalade 16 13m
Climb onto pedestal, then up the groove, moving R at the top. Good pro in the R crack. Sustained. Alternative direct finish (18) not so well protected during crux. True diehards can climb just the protection crack (19/20).
Rawhide 18 13m
The arete R of Escalade. Delicate balancy climbing on good holds. Pro only by leaning L to Escalade - not for the faint-hearted. Sustained. 
Rob Rainsbury 1972
Rampart 17 13m
The thin crack in the slab R of Rawhide. Quite delicate moves on hand holds in the crack. Subtle pro placements which run out
Sword in the Stone 16 13m
The prominent crack through a small roof at the L of The Cave. Jam or use the secret hold past the overhang (crux), then move easily up the corner. The first part of Rampart can be combined with the second half of Sword to give a grade 15 route.
Uncompromising Vulture 22 12m
Climb the first part of Sword in the Stone then move R below overhang on small under-cling hold and up (crux) to climb the short corner. Adequate pro.
John Allen, 1980
Thick as a Vulture 23 12m
Climb Uncompromising Vulture to the lip of the roof then hand traverse R to a large block. Scramble onto this and finish as for Thick as a Brick. A good route.
Ton Snelder, Dave Fearnley 1984