Hellfire Gully

(15 routes)

At the bottom of this gully are the Drawbridge Slabs. These have no named climbs, but provide a lot of good balance climbing and some hard eliminates.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Donjon Direct Start 17 12m
Start 2m L of Donjon. Straight up to join the top of Donjon. Some pro.
Donjon 15 11m
Start at the base of the small groove. Awkward first move. Then move L and up on jugs. Quite serious and exposed.
The Age of Chivalry 17 11m
Climbs straight up the groove that Donjon escapes from. Sparse pro, delicate moves, quite lichenous. Lindsay Main '77
Alcazar 13 9m
Nice climbing on smallish holds. On the L side of the wall R of Donjon. Pro a bit sparse - not your safest first lead.
Rambling Man 12 7m
The R side of this wall. Exit over blocks to the top of Hellfire Gully.
Hellfire Gully 6 30m
a trully alpine experience. Cavers can finish by grovelling under the block at the top. The main features of this route are: (1) It's a great classic ascended in 1913 by Edgar Williams. (2) It's a usual descent route from the Keep.
Peter Tor-toise 21 8m
Climb the crack where the first protection for Bill's Hat goes. Thin. Ton Snelder '84
Bill's Hat 21 8m
High up in Hellfire Gully, on the right hand side of the bulging wall on the right hand side of the gully. Place what pro you can in the crack above the blocks (wires, very small cam). Sloping holds lead one out right to more of the same, followed by a strenuous reach up into a layback position then easier ground. Adequate pro, improves with height. John Allen '78
Belfry 17 8m
Climb the easy route up the wide cracks on the R side of the slab, then wander up on a similar line and move R below Bill's Hat. The bottom crack is the easy descent route.
Cyan 16 20m
Start up the groove at the right hand side of the Drawbridge slabs. Meander up a crack (with tussock), wall and ledges to an airy position among loose blocks below the top roof/corner. Try to place something you can trust, and go through at the corner (crux). Finish up small slab to belay from the block a bit higher, right of Bills Hat. A bit alpine - good pro except at the crux...
Magenta 16 20m
Start more or less as for Cyan, but at some point trend right and finally traverse the small slabs below the big red 'nose' of rock at the top. Finish right of this to the Cyan belay or for an exhilarating alternative follow the thin crack which splits the top block. A bit loose in places. Pro generally good. John Stanton '71
Yellow 18 20m
An alternative first half to Magenta. Start in the same groove as the previous two routes, but climb the nose of rock at about 6m and to the right, either to its left or swing right below it then up. Pro in the left hand crack just above the nose. Head up the 'slab' to the loose blocks (pro) then over these and left to join Magenta just before it heads right below the top block. Not much pro at the bottom, but an enjoyable variation. A bit loose in places.
Savage Slipstream 20 14m
The wide crack near the L edge of the roofs. Climb easily up blocks, then R across slab to the crack. Good holds and jams. Crux is getting your body over the lip. Brute strength may not be enough.
Rick McGregor Feb '76
Squeezing Out Sparks 20 14m
The twin cracks R of Savage Slipstream. Easily into a cave then up the wall to the roof. Good holds lead to the crux at the lip. Good pro. Dave Fearnley '80
Zigzag 14 14m
Tucked in a corner at the edge of the overhangs. Start as for Squeezing out Sparks, but exit via the forked crack (16) or zigzag up the easier line right of this, stepping around the roof. Going too far right will take you onto steeper ground with increasingly loose holds. There are also three ways of starting the bottom. By increasing difficulty; up the SOS line, the crack one metre right of this, and the groove/chimney two metres right, above the undercut. The latter of these is strenuous and has scant pro.