At the bottom of this gully are the Drawbridge Slabs. These have no named climbs, but provide a lot of good balance climbing and some hard eliminates.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
West
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Donjon Direct Start | 17 | 12m |
|
|||||||
Start 2m L of Donjon. Straight up to join the top of Donjon. Some pro.
|
||||||||||
Donjon | 15 | 11m |
|
|||||||
Start at the base of the small groove. Awkward first move. Then move L and up
on jugs. Quite serious and exposed.
|
||||||||||
The Age of Chivalry | 17 | 11m |
|
|||||||
Climbs straight up the groove that Donjon escapes from. Sparse pro, delicate
moves, quite lichenous. Lindsay Main '77
|
||||||||||
Alcazar | 13 | 9m |
|
|||||||
Nice climbing on smallish holds. On the L side of the wall R of Donjon. Pro a
bit sparse - not your safest first lead.
|
||||||||||
Rambling Man | 12 | 7m |
|
|||||||
The R side of this wall. Exit over blocks to the top of Hellfire Gully.
|
||||||||||
Hellfire Gully | 6 | 30m |
|
|||||||
a trully alpine experience. Cavers can finish by grovelling under the block
at the top. The main features of this route are: (1) It's a great classic
ascended in 1913 by Edgar Williams. (2) It's a usual descent route from the
Keep.
|
||||||||||
Peter Tor-toise | 21 | 8m |
|
|||||||
Climb the crack where the first protection for Bill's Hat goes. Thin. Ton
Snelder '84
|
||||||||||
Bill's Hat | 21 | 8m |
|
|||||||
High up in Hellfire Gully, on the right hand side of the bulging wall on the
right hand side of the gully. Place what pro you can in the crack above the
blocks (wires, very small cam). Sloping holds lead one out right to more of
the same, followed by a strenuous reach up into a layback position then
easier ground. Adequate pro, improves with height. John Allen '78
|
||||||||||
Belfry | 17 | 8m |
|
|||||||
Climb the easy route up the wide cracks on the R side of the slab, then
wander up on a similar line and move R below Bill's Hat. The bottom crack is
the easy descent route.
|
||||||||||
Cyan | 16 | 20m |
|
|||||||
Start up the groove at the right hand side of the Drawbridge slabs. Meander
up a crack (with tussock), wall and ledges to an airy position among loose
blocks below the top roof/corner. Try to place something you can trust, and
go through at the corner (crux). Finish up small slab to belay from the block
a bit higher, right of Bills Hat. A bit alpine - good pro except at the
crux...
|
||||||||||
Magenta | 16 | 20m |
|
|||||||
Start more or less as for Cyan, but at some point trend right and finally
traverse the small slabs below the big red 'nose' of rock at the top. Finish
right of this to the Cyan belay or for an exhilarating alternative follow the
thin crack which splits the top block. A bit loose in places. Pro generally
good. John Stanton '71
|
||||||||||
Yellow | 18 | 20m |
|
|||||||
An alternative first half to Magenta. Start in the same groove as the
previous two routes, but climb the nose of rock at about 6m and to the right,
either to its left or swing right below it then up. Pro in the left hand
crack just above the nose. Head up the 'slab' to the loose blocks (pro) then
over these and left to join Magenta just before it heads right below the top
block. Not much pro at the bottom, but an enjoyable variation. A bit loose in
places.
|
||||||||||
Savage Slipstream | 20 | 14m |
|
|||||||
The wide crack near the L edge of the roofs. Climb easily up blocks, then R
across slab to the crack. Good holds and jams. Crux is getting your body over
the lip. Brute strength may not be enough.
Rick McGregor Feb '76
|
||||||||||
Squeezing Out Sparks | 20 | 14m |
|
|||||||
The twin cracks R of Savage Slipstream. Easily into a cave then up the wall
to the roof. Good holds lead to the crux at the lip. Good pro. Dave Fearnley
'80
|
||||||||||
Zigzag | 14 | 14m |
|
|||||||
Tucked in a corner at the edge of the overhangs. Start as for Squeezing out
Sparks, but exit via the forked crack (16) or zigzag up the easier line right
of this, stepping around the roof. Going too far right will take you onto
steeper ground with increasingly loose holds. There are also three ways of
starting the bottom. By increasing difficulty; up the SOS line, the crack one
metre right of this, and the groove/chimney two metres right, above the
undercut. The latter of these is strenuous and has scant pro.
|
UUID:
f67523ac-ac67-46ad-a90b-7b8c2ea82b9b