This and the next large piece of rock, Watchtower Face, make up most of the `red side' (East) of Castle Rock. The climbing is characterized by balance climbing on adequate holds, with more seams than cracks, hence rather poor pro. Nursery slabs (20m L of Bastion Face) are two short slabs good for practising balance climbing. This side of Castle Rock tends to be sheltered from the southerly, but gets very little sun in winter and even in summer the climbs take a bit longer to dry. The other characteristic of this side is the profuse growth of red algae (which acts to decrease the coefficient of friction).
Altitude:
360m
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
East
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Edit link | ||
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| Yeoman | 9 |
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| Barbette | 6 |
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| Clockwork Orange | 18 | 13m |
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The orange slab on the left of the next significant wall. Battle left around
the bush and then up, tending right at the top (crux). Pro in dirty crack
near top left. Bryan Carter '73
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| Pass the Moloko | 21 | 13m |
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The arête between CO and BtR. Not entirely independent. Some of the top
holds may pull off. No pro at all. Phil Stuart-Jones '94
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| Born to Rot | 17 | 13m |
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The L-hand of the two grooves. Climb the groove and move R to finish. No pro
at all. Dave Fearnley '81
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| Trebucket | 14 | 13m |
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The R-hand groove - has had enough traffic to remove the algae. Straight up
the groove, with the crux near the top. Not one of the better protected 14s.
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| Ballista | 9 | 13m |
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The easy groove 3m R of Trebucket.
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| Thumbscrew | 15 | 11m |
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Start 5m R of Ballista. Pulls through small overhangs on good finger jugs and
then wander up to top. Sparse pro. Lindsay Main77
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| Grapeshot | 12 | 7m |
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Climbs a series of ledges just L of the gully full of dirt. Not a classic.
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