Bastion Face

(9 routes)

This and the next large piece of rock, Watchtower Face, make up most of the `red side' (East) of Castle Rock. The climbing is characterized by balance climbing on adequate holds, with more seams than cracks, hence rather poor pro. Nursery slabs (20m L of Bastion Face) are two short slabs good for practising balance climbing. This side of Castle Rock tends to be sheltered from the southerly, but gets very little sun in winter and even in summer the climbs take a bit longer to dry. The other characteristic of this side is the profuse growth of red algae (which acts to decrease the coefficient of friction).

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Yeoman 9
Barbette 6
Clockwork Orange 18 13m
The orange slab on the left of the next significant wall. Battle left around the bush and then up, tending right at the top (crux). Pro in dirty crack near top left. Bryan Carter '73
Pass the Moloko 21 13m
The arĂȘte between CO and BtR. Not entirely independent. Some of the top holds may pull off. No pro at all. Phil Stuart-Jones '94
Born to Rot 17 13m
The L-hand of the two grooves. Climb the groove and move R to finish. No pro at all. Dave Fearnley '81
Trebucket 14 13m
The R-hand groove - has had enough traffic to remove the algae. Straight up the groove, with the crux near the top. Not one of the better protected 14s.
Ballista 9 13m
The easy groove 3m R of Trebucket.
Thumbscrew 15 11m
Start 5m R of Ballista. Pulls through small overhangs on good finger jugs and then wander up to top. Sparse pro. Lindsay Main77
Grapeshot 12 7m
Climbs a series of ledges just L of the gully full of dirt. Not a classic.