Bastion Face

This and the next large piece of rock, Watchtower Face, make up most of the `red side' (East) of Castle Rock. The climbing is characterized by balance climbing on adequate holds, with more seams than cracks, hence rather poor pro. Nursery slabs (20m L of Bastion Face) are two short slabs good for practising balance climbing. This side of Castle Rock tends to be sheltered from the southerly, but gets very little sun in winter and even in summer the climbs take a bit longer to dry. The other characteristic of this side is the profuse growth of red algae (which acts to decrease the coefficient of friction).

Altitude:

360m

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

East

Title	Grade	Length	Quality
Yeoman	9		0

Barbette	6		0

Clockwork Orange	18	13m	0
The orange slab on the left of the next significant wall. Battle left around the bush and then up, tending right at the top (crux). Pro in dirty crack near top left. Bryan Carter '73
Pass the Moloko	21	13m	0
The arête between CO and BtR. Not entirely independent. Some of the top holds may pull off. No pro at all. Phil Stuart-Jones '94
Born to Rot	17	13m	0
The L-hand of the two grooves. Climb the groove and move R to finish. No pro at all. Dave Fearnley '81
Trebucket	14	13m	1.02
The R-hand groove - has had enough traffic to remove the algae. Straight up the groove, with the crux near the top. Not one of the better protected 14s.
Ballista	9	13m	0
The easy groove 3m R of Trebucket.
Thumbscrew	15	11m	0
Start 5m R of Ballista. Pulls through small overhangs on good finger jugs and then wander up to top. Sparse pro. Lindsay Main77
Grapeshot	12	7m	0
Climbs a series of ledges just L of the gully full of dirt. Not a classic.

(9 routes)