Barbican Wall

(23 routes)

This wall begins with the groove lines on the eastern side, continues rightwards as a steep wall, past the chimneys and eventually ends above and L of the Cave. The main part of the wall `overhangs like a sausage' and consequently the climbs are rather hard. On this part of the wall many of the holds are loose and there is often a distinct lack of natural pro.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Babylon 15 12m
0
wire representing trad
A bit contrived. The groove and block left of Alhambra. Up the lichenous groove without using the prominent rib on the left, then up onto the block at the top. Pro at the bottom consists of slings on vegetation.
Phil Stuart-Jones, 1993
Alhambra 18 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
The blank V-groove at the left end of the wall. Climb easily up to base of groove, then delicate bridging to the top. Wires at the base of the groove may make it a safe lead if your belayer is on the ball.
Bill Denz, 1971
Senile Decay 20 11m
1.02
wire representing trad
The arete right of Alhambra, climbed mostly on its left side. Crux near top. Place (dubious) wires in both Alhambra and Breakfast of Champions.
Joe Arts, 1980
Breakfast of Champions 22 13m
1.02
wire representing trad
The prominent corner. Climb mostly on right wall (no pro) to ledge (poor wires). From ledge move up groove (crux). Serious – the first ascent was soloed. Chickens can escape from the right end of the ledge.
Tobin Sorenson, 1979
Dangerous Liasons 23 13m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the arete between Breakfast of Champions and Poetry in Motion (RPs for pro) to a rest. Continue up the unprotected arete above. Very serious.
Dave Fearnley, 1987
Poetry in Motion 25 13m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The left-hand line on the main overhanging part of the wall. Climb up to the bolt and make a series of lunges to reach what you thought was a good ledge. Climb overhanging corner above ledge (harder than it looks). Sustained.
Brian Fish, 1981
Tales of Machismo 24 13m
1.02
wire representing trad
From the left side of the pedestal strenuous climbing just left of the thin crack on well-placed holds leads to the crux at the top. A serious proposition – below the crux the pro probably won't hold much of a fall, and some of the holds are loose. Extra pro (not enjoyed by the first ascentionist) by clipping the first bolt on Jeni’s Gang.
John Allen, 1979
Poultry In Motion 24 13m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Flap flap. The chicken’s variant of Tales of Machismo. Climb onto the pedestal and up to the first bolt on Jeni’s Gang, then up left into the thin crack (reasonable small wires/RPs ).
Phil De Joux, 1986
Jeni’s Gang Direct 25 13m
2.01
2bolts wire representing trad
Boulder up the right side of the pedestal, get yourself established then commit to the wall, past two bolts and then RPs in the thin crack above (you won’t quite hit the deck if you skip these). No useful pro before the first bolt. Sustained, powerful, fingery and technical. Brian Fish climbed the route by finishing out left to the ledge at the top of Tales of Machismo in 1981 (grade 24).
Dave Fearnley, 1982
Wall of Shame 23 13m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
The shallow groove has powerful moves low down with the crux between the two bolts. From the ledge at the top of the groove, move left to good wires in the thin crack and climb this to the top. (Using both cracks also works, but is no easier and makes placing pro nearly impossible.) Good moves, sustained.
John Allen, 1980
Whinging Mick 19 13m
0
wire representing trad
Swing left on jugs from base of Cleft Chimney. One hard move, then slightly dubious holds to ledge. Exit right from ledge. Only one runner very low down. Serious.
Dave Fearnley, 1979
Cleft Chimney 10 6m
0
wire representing trad
The left-to-right slanting slash. Easiest if you climb the right wall.
Orang-utang 15 6m
0
wire representing trad
Layback the crack right of Cleft Chimney to the ledge. Exit left on jugs.
Murray Cullen
Baboon 15 6m
0
wire representing trad
From the bottom left of Portcullis Chimney, climb to the ledge of Orang-utang then straight up the corner.
Portcullis Chimney 14 6m
0
wire representing trad
The right-hand chimney. Climb it first facing one way and then the other (or is it vice versa?). Quite tecko unless you wear one large boot.
Demilure 12 6m
0
wire representing trad
The wall right of Portcullis Chimney. Move right then up, and finish using left-hand cracks.
Tosse 12 6m
0
wire representing trad
Start in a small pod, move up and finish just right of Demilure.
Gobble 12 6m
0
wire representing trad
Pleasant with good pro. The crack 2m right of Tosse.
War of Words 17 6m
0
wire representing trad
The steep wall left of Edited Line. Rather loose. Some pro.
Steve Lassache, 1979
Edited Line 15 6m
0
wire representing trad
Black crack above a small block. Better than it looks. Bridging with jams and holds. Good pro.
Rack 17 5m
0
wire representing trad
The nasty-looking black forked crack right of Edited Line. Good pro.
Aisle 12
0
wire representing trad
The ledge sequence which traverses right below Rack and above Parapet. Airy.
Parapet 10 5m
0
wire representing trad
The easy blocks, then an awkward traverse right at the base of Rack around into Cannonball Gully. Useful as a descent route.
UUID: 
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