Barbican Wall

(23 routes)

This wall begins with the groove lines on the eastern side, continues rightwards as a steep wall, past the chimneys and eventually ends above and L of the Cave. The main part of the wall `overhangs like a sausage' and consequently the climbs are rather hard. On this part of the wall many of the holds are loose and there is often a distinct lack of natural pro.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Babylon 15 12m
A bit contrived. The groove and block left of Alhambra. Up the lichenous groove without using the prominent rib on the left, then up onto the block at the top. Pro at the bottom consists of slings on vegetation.
Phil Stuart-Jones, 1993
Fosse 12 6m
Start R of Demilune in a small pod. Move up and finish just R of Demilune.
Alhambra 18 12m
The blank V-groove at the L end of the wall. Climb easily up to base of groove, then delicate bridging to the top. Wires at the base of the groove may make it a safe lead if your belayer is on the ball.
Bill Denz, 1971
Gobble 12 6m
Pleasant with good pro. The crack 2m R of Fosse.
Senile Decay 20 11m
The arete R of Alhambra, climbed mostly on its L side. Crux near top. Place (dubious) wires in both Alhambra and Breakfast of Champions. Joe Arts '80
War of Words 17 6m
The steep wall to L of Edited Line. Rather loose. Some pro. Steve Lassache '79
Breakfast of Champions 22 13m
The prominent corner. Climb mostly on R wall (no pro) to ledge (poor wires). From ledge move up groove (crux). Chickens can escape from the R end of the ledge. Serious. Tobin Sorenson '79 (solo)
Edited Line 15 6m
Black crack above small block. Better than it looks. Bridging with jams and holds. Good pro.
Dangerous Liasons 23 13m
Climb the arete between Breakfast of Champions and Poetry in Motion (RPs for pro) to a resting place. Continue up the unprotected arete above. Very serious. Dave Fearnley '87
Rack 17 5m
The nasty-looking black forked crack R of E.L. Good pro.
Poetry in Motion 25 13m
The L-hand line on the main overhanging part of the wall. Climb up to the bolt and make a series of lunges to reach what you thought was a good ledge. Climb overhanging corner above ledge. Harder than it looks. Sustained. Brian Fish '81
Aisle 12
The ledge sequence which traverses R below R and above P. Airy.
Tales of Machismo 24 13m
The L-hand groove above the pedestal. Strenuous climbing on well-placed holds leads to crux at top. A serious proposition - below the crux the pro probably won't hold much of a fall, and some of the holds are loose. Extra pro (not enjoyed by the first ascentionist) by clipping the first bolt on J.G. John Allen '79
Parapet 10 5m
The easy blocks then tricky traverse R at base of Rack around into Cannonball Gully. Useful as a descent route.
Jeni's Gang 24 13m
Boulder up the right side of the pedestal, get yourself established then commit yourself to the wall, moving rightwards to the first bolt. Proceed up past the second bolt to the top. It's possible to get two good RPs in from the 'jug' above the 2nd bolt (though you won't quite hit the deck if you skip them), however there's no useful pro before the 1st bolt. Sustained, powerful, fingery and quite technical - a classic testpiece. Brian Fish originally finished L in 1981, Dave Fearnley added the direct finish in 1982. Brian Fish '81/Dave Fearnley '82
Poultry In Motion 24 13m
Flap flap. A leftward traverse with independent moves. Phil De Joux '86
Wall of Shame 23 13m
The groove with two bolts in it, powerful moves low down with the crux between the two bolts. From the ledge at the top of the groove, move L to the thin crack (good nut pro) and climb this to the top (using both cracks also works, but is no easier and makes placing pro nearly impossible). Good moves, sustained. John Allen '80
Whinging Mick 19 13m
Swing L on jugs from base of Cleft Chimney. One hard move, then slightly dubious holds to ledge. Exit R from ledge. Only one runner very low down. Serious. Dave Fearnley '79
Cleft Chimney 10 6m
The L-R slanting slash. Easiest if you climb the R wall.
Orang-utang 15 6m
Layback the crack R of C.C. to the ledge. Exit L on jugs. Murray Cullen
Baboon 15 6m
From bottom L of Portcullis Chimney, climb to ledge of Orang-utang then straight up corner.
Portcullis Chimney 14 6m
The R chimney. Climb it first facing one way then the other (or is it vice versa?). Quite technical unless you wear one large boot.
Demilune 12 6m
The first on the wall R of PC. R, up, then L using cracks.