Transmogrification

Type: 
Rock
Reference: 
Tf
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11911m4No
 Climbs the centre of the prominent wall capped by an overhang. The overlap now has a bolt and no longer requires natural pro. After the 2nd bolt, trend leftwards through the bulge to good holds at the 3rd bolt, then slightly right and follow a faint crack up the overhanging headwall. Now has a two-bolt anchor at the top; original anchor was in a boulder about 5m back.
Grade: 
19
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
11m
Bolts: 
4
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Neil Sloan, 1993.

Comments

Now retrobolted. 4 FHs to DBA way back. Grade 18.

The large bulge above the 2nd bolt is quite loose and would easily flatten you & your belayer. Suggest leaving this until cleared.

Last time I did this, there were 3 bolts, plus an optional extra bolt that is actually on the climb to the left.