The Roofs

(28 routes)

The next routes are to the right of a bushy gully which can be descended.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Darrans Training 12
0
wire representing trad
Start in the obvious, short crack left of The Lonely Sea And The Sky. No Fixed anchor. Be aware of a very rare shrub in the gully. Climbed 3/12/13 but I assume it has been climbed before. First ascent unknown.
First recorded ascent - Kieran Parsons Dec 2013
The Lonely Sea And The Sky 18
0
wire representing trad
Short wall to the right of the descent gully, about two metres left of the arête. Being a soloed route, it probably has no protection.
Lindsay Main, 1980
PC Is The Pope A Catholic? 19
0
1bolts wire representing trad
On the arête at the edge of the gully. Boulder to the bolt with chain links on small holds and climb past to easier ground with wire protection. Move left into the scoop, then back right to finish at the next route's anchor rings.
Lindsay Main, 2000
WG WYSIWYG 23
0
4bolts
Start on the right side of the arête just left of “Scott Free”. Climb the right side of the arête past four bolts to belay as for Scott Free. There is a rest on the arête by the third bolt and you could bail out from here (but you would be cheating).
Tony Burnell
SF Scott Free 22
2.01
4bolts
Start just right of the arête and about five metres left of the fence. Climb over the initial roof, then up the wall to finish slightly right into a left-facing corner. The top bolt is hidden above the bulge. Four bolts and anchor rings.
Tony Burnell, 2000
FP Friends In High Places 23
2.01
wire representing trad
An obvious right-leaning crack about five metres left of the fence, by a seepage. Awkward moves off the ground lead up to the first roof. Over the roof into the groove above and up to the second roof. Move out right to the arête and climb the crack above to the chockstone. Exit up steep grass to a two ring anchor. Natural protection.
Tony Burnell, 2000
RJ Restorative Justice 18 12m
1.02
5bolts
Goes to the right hand side of the quake scar, in the area where Rough Justice used to be. Start on right side of rubble pile. Move rightwards onto ledge, then move upwards past faint crack and upwards to double rap station.
Grant Piper 2016
TJ Tough Justice 21
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Climb through a small roof on the right side of the wall and up the wall to a ledge. Continue easily to finish as for Rough Justice with one or two cams. Three bolts.
Lindsay Main, 2002
RF Ride My Face 17 15m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start at the left side of a vegetated corner. Climb leftward past a bolt and up to the second bolt. A biggish cam protects the finish. Has its own DBA.
Calum Hudson, 1997
Right of the Greens 18
0
4bolts
companion climb on R of grassy gully. 4 bolts on cracked wall to DBA
KC Kerry's Climb 21
0
5bolts 1
Bulging prow right of the gully, with hard pulling on small holds past the first bolt to a large jug. Climb left of the second bolt and then up the arete right of the third. Join the top of Chicane Licken, where a wire may provide reassurance for the finish. to either previous anchor or take larger wires to exit crack on R to DBA
Dave Shotwell, 2000
CL Chicane Licken 18
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Just right. Traverse right under the overhang; then place wires and move up to the bolt with crux moves leftward and up to a ledge. Finish up the corner. Anchor at the Kerry's Climb bolts.
Calum Hudson, 1997
AS Applying for Superann 19
0
7bolts
7 bolts to DBA climb wall and thin crack and over overhang on the R(easier on L as for next climb). Finish to L from the ledge
John Entwisle
In You Endo 17
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start in the centre of the wall beside a bush, where a thin crack curves up to a round pod. Direct to the pod (place wires), then nice moves into the round pod. Move left onto the wall, through a small roof then step left onto a ledge, and climb the final headwall with one bolt. just left.Easy pull over to start then cams and wires to a pod. Bolt instead of peg protects section of poor rock. Then good pro to bolts on R of ledge to DBA
Calum Hudson, 1997
HO Hippocratic Oaf 17
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Start beside a bush just right of In You Endo, then right to a bolt on the edge of a scoop. Move back left under the roof to the right edge of the round pod, then straight up the groove past another bolt. Easy finish with natural protection. Anchor at a large boulder or the next route's ring hangers.
Calum Hudson, 1997
VL The Vertical Limit 20
0
From the right edge of the bush move up and clip the first bolt, step left, and climb straight over a bulge to a ledge. Layback past the last bolt to finish, with anchors to the left. Originally a Calum Hudson project.
Lindsay Main, 2000
Wardrobe Malfunction 19
0
2bolts wire representing trad
A lot of fuss over very little. 2 bolts of its own, one on VL and some pro. Grooved arête between Vertical Limit and Michael is Janet.
John Entwisle
MJ Michael Is Janet 17
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Start 3-4 metres right of Hippocratic Oaf, on the right edge of the wall. Up the right-trending slabby groove following the crack, cross the overlap, clip the bolt and climb left and up (crux), then follow the weakness (tie off a knob, or run it out), trending left to finish. One bolt, sling, and wire. Anchor as for previous route.
Calum Hudson, 1995
4 4 9
0
4bolts
Right of M is J 1 bolt with 2 bolt anchor chains. If climbers want it for partners, kids or beginner friends I'll add some bolts.
John Entwisle
HM Hypocritical Mass 15 15m
0
5bolts
On the left side of the small buttress, Right of the descent gully. Start up the black slab, then climb through the short steep wall, veer ight past the last bolt to the 98AO rap station.
Grant Piper 2015
98 98 All Out 14
0
3bolts
Further right is a slab and buttress to commerate the Boxing Day Test Day 1. 3 bolts and 2 chains up the centre of the buttress.
John Entwisle
157 157/0 12
0
5bolts
4 bolts up the arete. Direct start to first bolt is 15, or traverse leftwards at top bolt to use 98AO anchor.
John Entwisle
Un-named 23
0
1
The next groove. A hard start leads to easy climbing.
Andy Cockburn, 2000
Spare Rib 23
1.02
1
Starts just left of the old fence line. From the left, boulder up the wall to the first bolt. Climb through the roofs using the arête on the right and pull onto the head wall to a rest. Move right along the break and climb the exposed arête. Finish up easy rock to a single bolt well back from the edge. Four bolts.
Tony Burnell, 2000
Spirit Of Free Enterprise 25
1.02
1
About one metre right of the fence, through a series of roofs. Start below and right of the first bolt, move up to good holds (awkward), then steep climbing past the second and third bolts leads to a long reach to pass the third roof, thus gaining a standing position in a left-facing capped corner at the fourth bolt. Move left to the rib and finish up easy ground to a single bolt anchor. Five bolts.
Tony Burnell, 2000
Spirit Of Adventure 24
2.01
1
Starts about two metres right of the fence and climbs a series of roofs. Start below and left of the first bolt and gain a standing position on the blunt rib, then move up the steep groove on poor holds (awkward). Climb under the roof to the lip, then up the final groove over a loose block to easy climbing and the anchor above. Five bolts.
Tony Burnell, 2000
Whacked Up 18
0
1
Climb Rough Justice to the roof, place a wire, and move left under the roof past two bolts to the arete. Easy climbing with cams to the anchor.
Marcus Thomas, 2003
Rough Justice 17
2.01
1
Sidles the roof seven metres right of the fence. Start just right of the bottomless corner and climb the wall past a bolt to the corner; then move rightward under the huge roof. Climb through the notch at the edge of the roof and straight up the overhanging wall above with good natural protection to anchor rings.
Lindsay Main, 1973

Comments

grubbie's picture

updates from John Entwisle