The Caves

(12 routes)

The next routes are about 10 metres further right above the caves. On the left is:

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Wiggling The Pinky 22
Start below the roof and follow the white streaks over small overlaps (crux), then slightly left on to the upper headwall to finish. Six bolts and anchors. Joe Arts, 2000.
Bit Of Rough 23
Immediately to the right. Steep start followed by easier climbing on the headwall. Bolted by Joe Arts, then handed over to Richard. Five bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2001.
Pocket Rocket 23
Just right, with an undercut start behind the bushes. Climb up to the roof, move right and climb the crack (crux). Finish up the headwall above. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Bulk Order 24
Start just left of Primitive Man in a capped black groove. Clip the first bolt with difficulty or a stick. Climb to the left of the first two bolts before moving back right to the third. Pull up into a weakness and move round to the right up a short corner to the final roof. Then over this to easier climbing, finishing with a move out to the arĂȘte on the right. Lower off as for Primitive Man. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Primitive Man 23
Start between two caves in a tiny hanging groove and climb through two small roofs, each with a bolt. Wire protection in the groove. Simon Middlemass, 1993.
Lateral Thinking 25
Climb to the third bolt of Total Eclipse, then move up and slightly left onto small holds on the face above the roof. Finish directly on steep, juggy ground above the face. Five bolts. Use the Primitive Man anchors to the left. John Iseli, 2002.
Total Eclipse 24
Up the wall tending right and through a roof, then finish straight up. ?Five bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Bulk Delivery 23
Marked by bolts under a couple of roofs, which lead to a niche. Small crimpers to the underside of the first roof. Pull through the roofs with gymnastic moves into the groove. Four bolts.
Tony Burnell, 2000.
Pump Action 25
Just to the right. Dynamic moves to leave the ground before moving rightward under the first roof. Move up to the top of the groove and step right. From this subsidiary corner head up and left to finishing holds and an abseil ring. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
No Siesta 24
A steep route three metres right of Pump Action. Small holds give way to big moves as the gradient increases. Move up slightly left to the obvious horizontal jug where a big move past the third bolt awaits. Then out right to jugs at the fourth bolt and rock over to a semi rest. Join the last moves of Pump Action here as you exit past a bolt on yet more steep ground to the PA anchors. Excellent thuggy moves. Five bolts total. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Psychotherapy 24
Starts in the back of the cave and climbs up the middle of the roof past four bolts. Don't miss the no hands rest! Climb right under the protruding block past the fifth bolt and exit up and right to the anchors. 5 bolts and ring anchors. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Finger Food 22
Hard pulling rightwards past the first bolt to good holds. Technical climbing past two more bolts to finish at the Flour Girl anchors. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2001.