Gorse Wall

(28 routes)

An area of short walls and buttresses of variable quality above the area of gorse. Hopefully the name of the wall will become inappropriate eventually.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Summer Sun Direct Start 17
0
Start off two good jugs below the first bolt followed by powerful moves, keeping left of the first bolt. Move back right at the second. Perry Buist, 2001.
Summer Sun 16
0
Short climb about eight metres right of Illicit Treasure on the left side of the vegetated corner. Start up Supervegeman and move left onto the face to clip the first bolt. Stay right after the third bolt where it's cleaner. Three bolts and ring anchors. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Supervegeman 14
2.01
The easiest bolted climb of the crag. Straight up the vegetated corner with nice bridging all the way to the top. Shares the Summer Sun anchors. Andrew Buist, 2000 (Solo).
Note 2
0
The walls on either side of the corner can be climbed at 17/18.
Dazzle Man 17
2.01
Nice face climbing on good holds. Start two metres right of a vegetated corner. Rock over on to a big hold, and clip the first bolt. Continue up past two more. Ring bolt anchor with chain. Andrew Buist, 2000.
Austin Powered 18
1.02
Start two metres right below a small roof. After clipping the first bolt, tend left over the lip (crux) to clip the second bolt. Easier climbing on nice holds past the next two bolts (don't miss the last bolt out right) then climb back left to the anchors. Four bolts and anchor rings (which were moved to reduce damage to the tree after it was mutilated by some pill-brain). Andrew Buist, 2000.
Comfortably Numb 21
1.02
Starts about three metres right of Austin Powered on the left side of a corner. Take care of the vegetation - you can incorporate a two-metre boulder traverse to avoid stomping the Muehlenbeckia. Powerful moves on good holds up to the lip. Climb left at the second bolt then continue up past the third bolt and the last bolt of Austin Powered. Don't trash the vegetation at the bottom when lowering off. Andrew Buist, 2000.
Merlin The Unhappy Pig 18
0
Up a wide crack with natural protection, through bulges past a fern, then move right to the Stumpy anchors. Joe Arts, 2000.
Stumpy 21
0
Start a metre right and boulder rightward past the first bolt to a rest below the bulge. Move left past the second bolt to surmount the bulge. Easier climbing on the wall above. Three bolts, double ring anchor set back from the top. John Iseli, 2000.
Cracked Up 20
0
Boldly boulder up the wall to the left of Humpy Pumpy to a stance below the groove. Climb the crack above on natural gear and finish at the Stumpy anchors. John Iseli, 2001.
Humpy Pumpy 22
0
The steep face three metres right of Stumpy. Good moves through the overlaps, finishing leftwards after the third bolt up easy ground to the Stumpy anchors. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2000.
Squash The Dog 16
0
Wide crack with a roof, good natural gear. Move left to the Humpy Pumpy anchors. Joe Arts, 2002.
Spooky Two 22
0
Awkward moves on to a hanging slab. Up the arĂȘte on the left and back right into the crack/groove to finish. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2002.
Overhaul 23
0
Two metres right. Steep climbing on good holds following the arete on the right side of the face. Pass the third bolt on the right, moving left past the fourth. Four bolts, double ring anchor. John Iseli, 2002.
Note 2
0
The next two routes are about 30 metres to the right, on a shady recessed wall.
Gastronomic 21
1.02
Climb the left side of the solid grey wall, staying left of the native shrub at half height. Clip the third bolt from a large hand hold to the right, moving up and left of the bolt for an interesting climax. Three bolts, shares KTB's anchors. John Iseli 2001.
Kikurangi Triple Blue 22
1.02
A compact looking little wall left of an obvious left-facing corner. Climb between the crack and the bolts on small crimps, staying right of a native shrub on a small ledge. Ring-hanger anchors. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Ara Takahanga 19
1.02
The obvious left-facing corner. Technical climbing directly up the corner, exiting via over the final bulge and up an easy chimney. There are belay stations either up and left or on the ledge on the right. Four bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.
Black & Blue 20
0
Start as for Ara Takahanga in the corner, and from the first bolt move out right onto the rib. Continue up and rightwards across the wall to a large hole; then finish up and right of the last bolt before stepping back left to a belay station on a ledge. Five bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.
Black Jack 21
1.02
A few metres right this ascends the solid black wall. Boulder up steep rock to the 'dinner-plate' and pull hard to reach the ledge above the first bolt. Continue up past the large chicken head to easier climbing with natural gear (wires or small cams) on the wall above. Two bolts, double ring anchor slightly left. John Iseli, 2001.
Noah's Ark 22
1.02
Starts just right of Black Jack. Hard pulling initially followed by easier climbing up past the boat shaped outline in the rock. Finishes up the corner or the bulging face to the right. Nicer than it looks. Five bolts. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Yellow Peril 26
0
Starts just right of Noah's Ark below a shallow right facing groove under the obvious yellow wall. Climb easily up the groove and move over a crumbly roof into a series of crumbly pockets and a good rest position on Noah's Ark. Swing out right into an exposed position and climb up, strenuously, into the steep groove under a large roof. Finish easily to the top. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.
Give The Dog A Phone 22
0
A few metres right is a line of six bolts through the overhangs. Move up to first bolt from right, then continue past second bolt to a balancy stance below the third. Easier out right, but instead launch up and left, and link a couple of pockets with wild moves. Continue with a long reach to a good hold right of final bolt. From there move left across the void to finish at a double anchor station. Very sequential. Simon Courtois, 2001.
The Price You Pay 21
0
Maybe 20. Start at the toe of a buttress and climb past the first bolt on crumbly rock. The wall steepens with a committing move to the last bolt, followed by a mantle on to the ledge. Double anchor bolt to the right. Four bolts. Simon Courtois, 2000.
It's Only Natural 20
0
Starts a metre further right and climb to a ledge, then place gear on the right and climb the wall to a rest below a broken crack. Steep and committing finish through the overhang. Anchor to the rings on TPYP to the left. Wires and cams. John Iseli, 2001.
Note 2
0
Eight metres further right by the flax is:
Devious 22
0
Start as for Prowler, moving left at the third bolt. Hard pulls past the fourth bolt, then keep it together to the top. Five bolts, and a large wire/small cam is useful at the top. Use Prowler's anchors. John Iseli, 2001.
Prowler 20
0
Ascends the steep prow at the right end of the wall. Climb easily to the second bolt, moving right to gain the third bolt. Straight up the prow past two bolts on good holds. Five bolts, double ring anchors. John Iseli, 2001.