The Cave

(28 routes)

The many steep endurance test pieces in the Cave make it the steep sportclimbing crag in New Zealand. Beware the native Cave climbing Troglodyte. The best time to climb here is summer as it turns into a giant seeping mess in winter

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
297m
Walk time: 
20 Minutes
Access: 

Park at the end of Bay View Road and walk up the Barnett Park walkway for 20 minutes until you get to a slightly hidden turnoff in a alcove of the track

Lat/Lon: 
-43.576252000000, 172.733746000000
NZMS260: 
M36 885 368
Topo50: 
BX24 785 752
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Super Glue 27 11m
0
7bolts
Short but requires plenty of ooze. Begin at the far left of the cave and traverse right on big holds to a big move to a big plate hold. Now head straight up on small edges until over the lip of the cave
Tony Ward-Holmes 1998
Shrubble (The Warm Up) 26 12m
2.01
7bolts
Start on the first 5 bolts of "She Devil" except after clipping 5th bolt go up and into the second half of "Rubble" Finish in a small slot with no anchors so just jump off
She Devil 28 16m
2.01
10bolts
Climb Past the first 4 bolts of "Super Glue but continue traversing right to "Gorilla Grip"
Richard Kimberley 1998
Centrifuge 32 18m
1.02
12bolts
The horizontal line which traverses almost half of The Cave. Start as for "She Devil", pass "Gorilla Grip" and continue along the seam which leads to "Bogus Machismo". A mediocre rest after the long traverse provides some recovery for the weird and very wide crux
Ivan Vostinar 2003
Rubble 27 14m
0
7bolts
Starts left of the small slab. Steep climbing crosses the traverse line to holds that are hopefully better then the name suggests.
Tony Ward-Holmes 2004
Gorilla Grip 27 15m
2.01
7bolts
One of the cave classics and always climbed on. Start up the mini slab and climb through three distinct cruxes.
Matt Evrard 1993
Troglodyte 30 15m
1.02
Start in the steep corner 5m right of Gorilla Grip. Climb up and then left to join Gorilla Grip near the top.
Hydroplaning 34
0
Start up Trog and finish at the chains of Bogus. A few hard moves in-between.
Mark Pugh-Williams 2014
Kaz's Project 33 16m
3
9bolts
Start in the corner and, once up a bit, drift left via a very long section of consistently very hard moves to the lip of The Cave.
Derek Thatcher, 1997?
Hung Like Elvis 26 12m
0
7bolts
Follow the route "Snake Charmer" but route finishes at the Pidgeon Pod
John McCallum 1994
Snake Charmer 29 18m
0
13bolts
Up the left-leaning crack thing. Set up on small crimps to power up for a big dyno. Traverse right to the pigeon pod and enjoy the rest before joining "Bogus Machismo" via some campusing. Really long but ingenious rests can be found
Ivan Vostinar 2003
Ride of the Valkyries 32 17m
1.02
9bolts
The first half of this route is on excellent rock. It involves a dyno and intense fingers moves into the pigeon pod. After a decadent rest, enjoy some wild moves to link up to the crux of "Bogus Machismo"
Ivan Vostinar 2003
Bogus Machismo 29 18m
3
11bolts
Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped.
Peter Taw 1994
The Enigma of Kasper Hauser 32 17m
1.02
12bolts
Climb up the distinct straight crack that cuts the cave in half, but at half height turn right and finish as for "Kaiser Soze"
Derek Thatcher 2004
Kaiser Soze 31 18m
1.02
11bolts
Same start as "Bogus Machismo" but head right at 4th bolt to the no-hands kneebar. From here the crux goes for the next five bolts with no decent rest.
Ivan Vostinar 2004
Project 31
0
New route bolted by Sefton. 31ish?
2014
Space Boy 32 16m
2.01
10bolts
Interesting and varied technical moves up the vague arĂȘte to the rest hole. Persevere through another bouldery section to a final rest before the last crux. Pumpy finish on good holds.
Matt Evrard 1994
Buffy 32 17m
0
9bolts
Climb route "Nosferatu" except traverse left from anchor and finish up "Space Boy"
Derek Thatcher 2003
Dracula 31 14m
1.02
7bolts
Start on the right side of the arĂȘte-like feature via superb bouldery moves to the 4th bolt. Now go right to join "Nosferatu". Shake out, get demoralised and for the best on the Run-out, pumpy finish
Kaz Puchia 2003
Nosferatu 31 15m
0
8bolts
A blood sucker. The moves seem alright but putting it together doesn't come easily. After a fingery burst to the only rest, charge left to the cranky crux. Poor footholds require lots of tension and stamina.
Ivan Vostinar 2002
Urge 26 13m
0
7bolts 1
The Big, blocky, Bulging Beast. An Edgy and cruxy start through the mini roof to chunky jugs and an excellent rest at half height. Another finger crux leads to jugs, then go right to the anchor
Brian Alder 1993
Let There Be Bolts 28 13m
2.01
6bolts
Start right of the big blob on "Urge" You'll find fantastic, Dynamic moves up this sustained and classic route. Its less steep than most other Cave routes but it really sustained due to poor rests. Awesome, Interesting moves
Peter Taw 1993
Retrograde 30
1.02
6bolts
The line between Bolts and Attack Mode, sharing the anchors with AM. Funky bouldery moves down low may give pause for thought.
Sefton Priestley 2014
Choss Muncher 12m
0
7bolts
Weird and very strenuous bouldering leads to the crux of "Attack Mode". Cunning strong fingers will definitely help.
Derek Thatcher 2002
Attack Mode 29 13m
1.02
7bolts
After the tricky start, head left to a wee rest before committing to serious business on edges through the roof
Peter Taw 1993
Straight No Chaser 25 13m
0
5bolts
Start as for "Attack Mode" and keep going straight up. A draining bouldery start to a quick rest and steep edge cranking until over the lip
Tony Ward-Holmes 1998
Ice Man 26 13m
0
5bolts
Just left of the waterfall, start as for "Attack Mode" but at the ledge head right through a difficult roof
Alex Palman 1998
Groundhog Day 27
1.02
Start up LTBB and go right at 4th bolt then up to finish at the chains for Attack Mode.
Attribution: 
All data entry by Jarrod Alexander with info from Rock Deluxe

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UUID: 
0462a505-ae2e-4e00-986e-1337fe6cb7d9