The Fortress

(8 routes)

60-70m high coloumned wall between the waterfall and Orange wall.

Altitude: 
1150m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
NZMS260: 
k36 784317
Topo50: 
BX20 684 701
Access: 

Goto base of Orange Wall, scamble leftwards to the base of The Fortress

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Scimitar 14 ,21 ,15 56m
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11420m1Yes
22121mYes
31515mYes
Murray Judge '94
Banana Split 20 ,15 70m
2.01
3bolts wire representing trad
Traverse left at the second bolt, 45 metres, take a good sized rack of gear up to #2 friend.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12040m3Yes
 Traverse left at the second bolt, 45 metres, take a good sized rack of gear up to #2 friend.
21530mNo
 Up short crack and scamble out top.
Murray Judge, Wayo Carson '95
Mississippi Mud Cake 17 ,15 70m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Climb the slab then the shallow crack to the belay ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11740m3Yes
 Climb the slab then the shallow crack to the belay ledge.
21530mYes
 Move right and climb a short second pitch to the next belay.
Murray Judge '95
Black Velvet Sin 18
0
wire representing trad
More than a pitch in length, so needs a belay at half height.
Andrew Macfarlane '95
Hotline to Jim 18 40m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
A long and pleasant arete, either scramble up from the bottom or abseil from the top to start. (some say its 19)
Andrew Macfarlane '94
0800 Butch 23 40m
2.01
11bolts wire representing trad 1
The long groove to the right of HTJ
Tony Pine, Murray Judge '98
Psychological Trauma 24 40m
0
wire representing trad
The most obvious corner three metres right of Hotline, good moves, the upper wall above the break and arete are loose.
Chris Burtenshaw, Sean Waters, Grant Piper '95
Crackline right of the broken arete 13 ,19
0
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1130mNo
2190mNo
 The second pitch is a 35 metre crack with a short third pitch on the upper buttress (7m).
Stuart McConney, Brian Davia '95

Comments

The low angled columns below Scimitar-Banana Split area are fully equipped with bolts and rap anchors for a couple of pleasant low grade climbs.