Waterfall Wall & The Far Side

Type

Altitude

1150m

Part of

The walls that have the waterfall in the middle of them. The Far Side is to the Left of the waterfall and the Waterfall Wall is to the right of the waterfall.

Aspect

North

Lat/lon

POINT (171.37567077 -43.6133963)

Topo50

BX20 689 698

Approach

Go to the top of the "Orange Wall" walk left (east) across the top of the Orange, Fortress & Waterfall Wall to the top of the Far Side. It is also reasonably straight forward to access the base of the "Jolly Swagman" by scrambling down and left from the base of the orange wall below the fortress to the pool.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
NW	NWNo Weasals, 18	18	30m		1.02
P1 18 30m Trad The bridging chimney at the left end of The Far Side.
FS	FSThe Far Side Buttress, 19	19	32m		2.01
P1 19 32m Trad The crack up the centre of the buttress.
ND	NDNew Age Deceit, 21	21	33m	3	1.02
P1 21 33m 3 Trad Some 'Scottish' style bridging to reach the upper groove, use 3 bolts on right.
DM	DMDubious Means, 24	24	33m		2.01
P1 24 33m Trad A fine bridge with some tricky finger work makes the crux.
TC	TCThe Contortionist, 23	23	38m	6	1.02
P1 23 38m 6 Trad The start was easier before the block fell out. Sketchy climbing to get to the first bolt. Then bridge and chimney in the groove, then move left at the roof, then back right on the upper wall.
PP	PPPain and Pleasure, 24	24	38m	11	2.01
P1 24 38m 11 Trad (Formerly called Weta). The finger crack has fallen off but the rest of the route is still as hard, lead with three rests.
Gk	GkGecko, 21	21	38m	5	1.02
P1 21 38m 5 Up a bridging groove to the roof, step right to the crack and hand traverse back left above the roof then up a shallow corner.
	The Far Side of Never, 21	21	40m	3	0
P1 21 40m 3 Trad Pull through a small roof into the groove, using the three bolts on the right.
LH	LHThe Longest Hardest Climb, 21	21	42m	5	2.01
P1 21 42m 5 Trad Abseil in, climb up right of the roof and up the shallow crack to the ledge before traversing left to the groove.
JS	JSOnce a Jolly Swagman, 20	20	72m	3	2.01
A popular three pitch route close to the waterfall. P1 16 20m Trad Start at the pool and scramble up left to a single bolt belay, climb the easy groove to the break and hand traverse left to the upper groove (original line) or continue up the groove and traverse at the top. P2 16 20m 3 Trad crosses the bushy ledge to a layback start, tending right up the cleanest rock to a step left at a bolt. P3 20 32m 2 Trad follows a superb groove to the ledge and left up broken blocks. It can be descended in two rappels but probably safer to make three and avoid the swing under the waterfall.
JJ	JJWhere's My Jolly Jumbuck?, 19	19			1.02
P1 19 Trad Starts from the last belay of Swagman, traverse right and up the next groove to rejoin the route at the ledge, Andrew Mcfarlane followed directly up the crack at (21).
KC	KCKoala in a Coolibah Tree, 21	21	0m		0
P1 21 Trad A finger crack from the start of the hand traverse on pitch one of Swagman.
WW	WWWailing Wall, 22	22	32m	2	1.02
P1 22 32m 2 Trad Best approached by abseil, climb the right facing corner to the roof with a wide bridge to pass this.
Ts	TsTsunami, 24	24		8	2.01
P1 16 Trad starting off the "beach" at the foot of the waterfall, climb the slab to a belay on the bushy ledge P2 15 2 Trad go left and up a short slab and back right onto a short buttress. P3 24 8 Trad The third pitch takes the steep wall to the top, eight bolts.
H10	H10Hang Ten, 24	24	32m	6	2.01
P1 24 32m 6 Trad Abseil to the Tsunami belay and clinb directly up to the triple roof, some wild moves through the overhangs.
Pl	PlPipeline, 23	23	32m	2	1.02
P1 23 32m 2 Trad Abseil to the belay, layback up the crack as high as possible, clip the bolt and reach for the holds. Step to the left to start the top section.

Comments

This place appears in

Rock Deluxe South, 2014

Buy this guidebook

UUID

ff8b0fb7-c22d-4ebc-9f29-b7b0e2b802d3