Waterfall Wall & The Far Side

(16 routes)

The walls that have the waterfall in the middle of them. The Far Side is to the Left of the waterfall and the Waterfall Wall is to the right of the waterfall.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1150m
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

Go to the top of the "Orange Wall" walk left (east) across the top of the Orange, Fortress & Waterfall Wall to the top of the Far Side. It is also reasonably straight forward to access the base of the "Jolly Swagman" by scrambling down and left from the base of the orange wall below the fortress to the pool.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.613396300000, 171.375670770000
NZMS260: 
k36 789314
Topo50: 
BX20 689 698
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
NW No Weasals 18 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
The bridging chimney at the left end of The Far Side.
Kate Sinclair 2004
FS The Far Side Buttress 19 32m
2.01
wire representing trad
The crack up the centre of the buttress.
Jay Kinsman '94
ND New Age Deceit 21 33m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Some 'Scottish' style bridging to reach the upper groove, use 3 bolts on right.
Andrew Macfarlane '94
DM Dubious Means 24 33m
2.01
wire representing trad
A fine bridge with some tricky finger work makes the crux.
Andrew Macfarlane, Murray Judge '94
TC The Contortionist 23 38m
1.02
6bolts wire representing trad 1
The start was easier before the block fell out. Sketchy climbing to get to the first bolt. Then bridge and chimney in the groove, then move left at the roof, then back right on the upper wall.
Murray Judge '95
PP Pain and Pleasure 24 38m
2.01
11bolts wire representing trad
(Formerly called Weta). The finger crack has fallen off but the rest of the route is still as hard, lead with three rests.
Murray Judge Aug '94.
Gk Gecko 21 38m
1.02
5bolts
Up a bridging groove to the roof, step right to the crack and hand traverse back left above the roof then up a shallow corner.
Murray Judge '94
The Far Side of Never 21 40m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Pull through a small roof into the groove, using the three bolts on the right.
Andrew Macfarlane '95
LH The Longest Hardest Climb 21 42m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
Abseil in, climb up right of the roof and up the shallow crack to the ledge before traversing left to the groove.
Murray Judge '94
JS Once a Jolly Swagman 16 ,16 ,20 72m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
A popular three pitch route close to the waterfall.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11620mYes
 Start at the pool and scramble up left to a single bolt belay, climb the easy groove to the break and hand traverse left to the upper groove (original line) or continue up the groove and traverse at the top.
21620m3Yes
 crosses the bushy ledge to a layback start, tending right up the cleanest rock to a step left at a bolt.
32032m2Yes
 follows a superb groove to the ledge and left up broken blocks. It can be descended in two rappels but probably safer to make three and avoid the swing under the waterfall.
Murray judge, Andrew Macfarlane '95
JJ Where's My Jolly Jumbuck? 19
1.02
wire representing trad
Starts from the last belay of Swagman, traverse right and up the next groove to rejoin the route at the ledge, Andrew Mcfarlane followed directly up the crack at (21).
Murray Judge '95
KC Koala in a Coolibah Tree. 21
0
wire representing trad
A finger crack from the start of the hand traverse on pitch one of Swagman.
Sam Bossard '95
WW Wailing Wall 22 32m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Best approached by abseil, climb the right facing corner to the roof with a wide bridge to pass this.
Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane '94
Ts Tsunami 16 ,15 ,24
2.01
10bolts wire representing trad
starting off the "beach" at the foot of the waterfall, climb the slab to a belay on the bushy ledge
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1160mYes
 starting off the "beach" at the foot of the waterfall, climb the slab to a belay on the bushy ledge
2150m2Yes
 go left and up a short slab and back right onto a short buttress.
3240m8Yes
 The third pitch takes the steep wall to the top, eight bolts.
Wayo Carson, Dave Brash, Murray Judge '95
H10 Hang Ten 24 32m
2.01
6bolts wire representing trad
Abseil to the Tsunami belay and clinb directly up to the triple roof, some wild moves through the overhangs.
Wayo Carson '97
Pl Pipeline 23 32m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Abseil to the belay, layback up the crack as high as possible, clip the bolt and reach for the holds. Step to the left to start the top section.
Murray Judge '97

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