The Pyramid

(7 routes)

East of Christian Principals Crag is another couple of crag that have recently had ascents done on them. Standing at Pinnacles Hut, the crag is the prominent pyramid shape crag to the left of C P Crag. Grid Ref 798 310 Methven Map
Getting There


  • Go to the Point on the track where the Pinnacles Hut is first seen. Grid ref 799 317.

  • Climb on to the rocky knob uphill from the track.

  • Drop off knob downhill across grass to upper LH side where grass meets the scrub. Look for a cairn and go through scrub (semi-cut track) to dry creek bed.

  • Go between two big boulders  and venture up LH creek bed (true right).

  • To avoid the bluff/ waterfall leave the creek bed on the LH side once above traverse back right into the creek bed.

  • When the creek goes left, go straight uphill onto terrace.

  • Go right into next creek under small waterfall.

There is a few flat sleeping ledges, the “Babbling Brook Biv”
Look left to old rope and use it to navigate left under pyramid 798 310. Base of Crag.
There are also Routes on the right hand crag: Babbling Brook Right. The climbs require a reasonable selection of trad gear but also have bolts where the trad gear runs thin. Enjoy!
Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
150m
Walk time: 
3.5hrs
Lat/Lon: 
-43.616784150000, 171.385431290000
NZMS260: 
K36 799317
Topo50: 
BX20 699 701
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
G&S Greg & Sharon’s Climb 17 45m
0
Red face, tending right, straight up to belay anchor at 1st pitch of SD & TWF. Trad gear.
Greg Low, Sharon Niel
WF The Weta File 21 ,17 ,19 105m
1.02
From same ledge start as SD up wall past bolts to roof. Through roof, up crack to same Rap stn as SD.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12150m5Yes
 From same ledge start as SD up wall past bolts to roof. Through roof, up crack to same Rap stn as SD.
21730mYes
 Left Hand Option. Left up obvious crack back right to rap stn.
31925m2Yes
 Direct Option Up past two bolts and onto crack straight to rap stn.
Grant Piper, Kevin Barrett 02/09
SD Stunt Double 18 ,21 ,15 86m
1.02
Start at bolt go up LH corner right at break and up arête to ledge. (As for Eco Terrorist). Rap anchors on right. Traverse left along ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11840m2Yes
 Start at bolt go up LH corner right at break and up arête to ledge. (As for Eco Terrorist). Rap anchors on right. Traverse left along ledge.
22121m5Yes
 Wall past 3 bolts to LH bolt @ overhang. Through overhang (bolt) to RH corner, and up slabs past bolt to rap station.
31525mNo
 Up right to RH corner, to small roof, go left to rap station.
Grant Piper, Greg Low, 03/09
ET Eco Terrorist 18 ,19 ,18 140m
2.01
1
Start at bolt go up LH corner right at break and up arête to ledge. Rap anchors on right.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11840m1Yes
 Start at bolt go up LH corner right at break and up arête to ledge. Rap anchors on right.
21950m5Yes
 Straight up wall under roof to RH corner past bolts. Once under roof traverse left and then up slab to single bolt belay + trad back up
31850mYes
 RH corner until corner runs out and then up head wall to top of crag. Recommend abseiling down “Tall Order”
Kevin Barrett Grant Piper 11/08
TO Tall Order 17 ,18 ,18 ,17 130m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
Up middle of RH slab thin vertical crack at 2/3rds height and up to rap stn.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11740mYes
 Up middle of RH slab thin vertical crack at 2/3rds height and up to rap stn.
21830m3Yes
 On to block up right follow bolts up walls and ledges past bolts, at top ledge move right to rap stn.
31830m2Yes
 Up right then back left up obvious RH corner systems onto slab and rap stn.
41730mYes
 Up to RH crack on head wall and climb to summit.
Kevin Barrett, Grant Piper, November 2008
DoS Dirty Old Slab 17 45m
0
Start up rough looking slab left of arete. Climb up slabs to trad anchor 30 meters right of bolt anchor for Tall Order.
Greg Low & Grant Piper 28/2/11
MR Mercury Rising 18 ,15 70m
0
6bolts wire representing trad
Start at 3rd pitch of Tall Order. Clip 1st bolt, then ascend R-wards across slabs into the corner. Climb the corner system the move L-wards onto a small ledge, then climb the headwall past 2 bolts, then using a series of cracks for pro to the double bolt belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11840m6Yes
 Start at 3rd pitch of Tall Order. Clip 1st bolt, then ascend R-wards across slabs into the corner. Climb the corner system the move L-wards onto a small ledge, then climb the headwall past 2 bolts, then using a series of cracks for pro to the double bolt belay.
21530mYes
 Cruise/ scramble to the top of the pyrimad to pick up the Abseil descent down. Tall Order
Grant Piper, Kevin Barratt, Mattias Kerkman 2012

Comments

A few notes from a recent visit... Babbling Brook Biv has space for a small 2-person tent and sleeping places for maybe about 3 more people. There was water when we were there (late Feb). The climbing on the Pyramid is "adventure" climbing, so expect a bit of route finding, lose rock and to climb through some scrub. It is possible to abseil off with just one rope. A standard rack is suffice.

grubbie's picture

A bit more scrub has bee cut, the access has been improved.