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Spittle Hill

Type
Sector
Part of
Castle Hill Kura Tawhiti

Boulders of all sizes litter the hillside south of Woolly Valley. There are a few excellent climbing routes here, but also quite a few more that are of marginal quality at best. Most bolts are simply coach bolts hammered into the soft limestone – please treat them with extreme caution. For bouldering information visit http://castlehillbasin.co.nz

Approach

Follow the main access track from the carpark and Spittle Hill is on your left. Woolly Valley separates Spittle Hill from the Quantum Field. The Cyclops Boulder is a good place to orient yourself. It is a big diamond-shaped boulder with a huge pocket in the centre, near the valley floor.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Cyclops Slab, 16 16 8m 1
2.01
  • P1
  • 16
  • 8m
  • 1

The Cyclops Boulder is a good place to orient yourself. It's the large boulder with huge pockets in the middle of Woolly Valley. A hard rockover to start then easy up the middle of the slab.

U UUsurper, 21 21 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 2

Thin left-leaning crack on a white slab.
 Fire of My Loins, 23 23 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 2

The nondescript arete.
TR TRTales from the Riverbank, 16 16 5
3
  • P1
  • 16
  • 5

Climb up huge pocks.
 Dark Side of the Moon, 16 16 2
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 2

Start as for Tales from the Riverbank. Move rightwards onto the wall, over the corner and onto the shelf.
 Lily of the Valley, 24 24 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 24
  • 2

Prominent rib down and to the right of Tales from the Riverbank.
 Married with Children, 18 18 2
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 2

Left of Frozen Dinners. Guess what? It's a slab.
FD FDFrozen Dinners, 22 22 3
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

A slab route on the right-hand side of a large free-standing boulder north-east of Only Dogs Eat Meat.
 Agony, 29 29
1.02
  • P1
  • 29

A blank-looking wall with the mother of all rockovers.
 Honey I Shrunk the Holds, 27 27 3
0
  • P1
  • 27
  • 3

Go rightwards along the ledge to the big jug, then move left and upwards on monos
 For Your Thighs Only, 16 16 2
2.01

Starts up the pocketed face , and shares finish with jumped up country boy

  • P1
  • 16
  • 2
  • Trad

Climb up steep pockets to the scoop, and then onto a slab finishing past a horizontal break.
JC JCJumped Up Country Boy, 17 17 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 14
  • 6

Start on the right of the wall, trend leftwards crossing For Your Thighs Only

  • P2
  • 17
  • 3

Trend rightwards after leaving the ledge.
NP NPNoxious Fish Plot, 21 21 2
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 2
  • Trad

A small round arete to the left of Manufactured. Traverse in from the left, past the bolt (and the crux) to the thread runner, before finishing past another bolt.
 Manufactured, 22 22 2
0

This route no longer exists , holes filled , bolts pulled out in 2018

  • P1
  • 22
  • 2

Left of Only Dogs Eat Meat.
 Only Dogs Eat Meat, 24 24 2
0
  • P1
  • 24
  • 2

To the left of Death Trap.
DT DTDeath Trap, 19 19
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

The crack behind and above Tales from the Riverbank.
 Thrifty Belgians, 22 22 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 22
  • 2

Turn subterranean grottoes into mushroom farms. Climb the pocketed arete. You'll notice a distinct cap and a small shrub at the top.
 Sculpting Time, 20 20 2
2.01
  • P1
  • 20
  • 2

On the opposite side of the TB boulder. Scamble to a ledge, then start climbing.
 General Saint, 25 25 1
0
  • P1
  • 25
  • 1

Opposite MB.
 Miss Bojangles, 23 23 2
2.01
  • P1
  • 23
  • 2

Uphill from YA. Start by rocking up on a small slab, and climbing a line of pockets finishing through a small overhang.
GC GCGroove Chicken, 22 22 1
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • 1

The rounded groove.
 Wedding Bells, 19 19 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 2

Climb the steepening slab, with an exciting clip on the 1st bolt.
 Yet Another, 18 18 1
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 1

Found opposite from WB. Bouldery start to finish on pocks.
 Das capital, 16 16 13m 505
2.01

In gully on left side of capitalism boulder. Starts up outside of chimney and finishes at capital chains , 5 hangers , good climbing ,good beginners lead route

  • P1
  • 16
  • 13m
  • 505
Cm CmPost Capitalism, 27 27 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 27
  • 4

One very difficult high step/press out should see you go all the way to the top of the wall. Glue-in ring bolts. Supercedes Capitalism (23, Paul Tattersall, 1987), which stopped at the third bolt.

 New dawn fades, 20 20 11m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 11m
  • 5

On the west side of capitalism boulder finishing at half height.
TA TATectonic Awarness, 21 21 1
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 1

A pinnacle
 Fat Transplant, 19 19 1
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 1

Just down from TA. Slab route.
 Surf Nazis Must Die, 18 18 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 2

Next boulder down from FT. Climb the wall with the big pock feature.
 Wanderlust, 18 18 17m 9
2.01
  • P1
  • 18
  • 17m
  • 9

Starts at hitch hiking horrors and moves traversing left for about 14 metres , 9 bolts plus top anchors , stainless hangers , best 18 at castle hill

HH HHHitchhiking Horrors, 19 19 2
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 2

25m down from ToTR, to yellow/grey pocked wall. Follow the S shaped crack, exiting R-wards to top.
 FS Slab, 18 18 2
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 2
  • Trad

Slab to the L of Hp. Start on L, traveres R-wards into groove, over the flake sharing the finish with Hump.
Hp HpHump, 18 18 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

Small arete. Gain the ledge, then step L-wards along the flake.
 Douglas McDougal, 20 20 2
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 2

On the yellow wall above Hump but below the roof. Move delicatley past the 2nd bolt, then L-wards to climb the crack to finish.
Br BrBullroarer, 23 23 3
0
  • P1
  • 23
  • 3

Faces Woolly Valley. Start on big pockets then move R-wards up the slab, to set youself up for the final lunge at the top.
LT LTL'Air du Temps, 26 26 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 6

Found on the back of the perfume bottle. Dyno up the north arete, then move L-wards upp the slab, the through the bulge and finishing up the groove.

  • P2
  • 26

Rather modified large pocket
OO OOThat Obscure Object of Desire., 18 18 2
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 2

On the Craigiburn side of the perfume bottle. Start up the slabs on the Rh-side.
 Baby Boom, 21 21
0
  • P1
  • 21

Behind the perfume bottle. Smear on to the arete, cross the wall onto the groove.
 The Face, 24 24 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 3

Short edgy face down and right of That Obscure Object of Desire. Named for the 1980s magazine.

 Leftie, 13 13 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 13
  • 3

Start on Lh-side, climb through the bulge, finishing on a slab.
 Poncho, 13 13 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 13
  • 3

The route to the R of Lefty
SY SYSickly Rebel Yellow, 23 23 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 2

Corner that features a groove.
Bt BtBlots, 24 24 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 3

To the R of SRY. Climb through the middle of the large white wall.
 Country Touch, 20 20 3
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

10m R of Bt
WT WTStrike me down lord Baden Powell, 18 18 3
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 3

Behind AP, on the same boulder.
AP APAllah Protects, 23 23 2
2.01
  • P1
  • 23
  • 2

Found at the head of Woolly Valley, ascends the obvious yellow wall. Grovel out of the groove and ascend the yellow wall, to finish below the roof.
 Last one to the tops a hetrosexual, 20 20 14m 40
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 2

Hard start, then a nice slab to finish.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 14m
  • 40

Finishes at top of boulder

 Time to Pack, 18 18 2
1.02

Has 4 bolts , has had 4 first ascents .....Rodney's was the 4 th

  • P1
  • 18
  • 2

Line of pockets. Faces the farm.

Images

Comments
This place appears in
Rock Deluxe South, 2014
Buy this guidebook
UUID
 
6bf383b2-84fe-4247-9e6b-249691db5a90