Place info

Dark Castle

(59 routes)

The area of boulders to the north of Rambandit Valley.
Recently the area has not been very popular due to being closed.
The routes do not get much traffic and could be slightly greasy, and brushing is not encouraged.
The best climbs to orient yourself on are Rambandit (Rb)

Type: 
Wall

The area of boulders to the north of Rambandit Valley.
Recently the area has not been very popular due to being closed.
The routes do not get much traffic and could be slightly greasy, and brushing is not encouraged.
The best climbs to orient yourself on are Rambandit (Rb)

Access: 

The Dark Castle is CLOSED, mainly because it has been part of Castle Hill Station, and overlooks the house. Nothing has changed.
Climbs on the West side of the Rambandit Valley are okay but all other areas of Dark Castle and the Lime Quarry scarp are currently still closed.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
25
1.02
1X bolts
  Left of SAYS

Dave Fearnley 1988

25
1.02
1X bolts
  The wall to the left of Rt

Pete Smale 1988

21
3
Natural gear required
2
  The handcrack on the north side of the boulder. Generally soloed as the crux is at the bottom

John Allen 1979

19
0
1X bolts
  Located in the Rambandit Boulder. Bridge the gully to the pock.

Bryan Moore 1989

27
0
1X bolts
 

Nick Sutter 1992

MB
24
2.01
2X bolts
  Found on the Rh edge of the south side of the Rambandit boulder.

John Allen 1980

22
1.02
1X bolts
  Found at the upper end of the Rambandit Valley. Climb the rounded arete.

Dave McLeod 1988

19
1.02
1X bolts
  Use same star as AB. Move L-wards to the pocks and up past the bolt.

Simon Middlemass 1989

19
1.02
1X bolts
  Start R of MMP. Carry out short pock crank.

Dave Fearnley 1988

HW
19 ,6 ,23 ,20
1.02
8X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
 
  1. Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.
  2. Traverse L-wards along the shelf.
  3. Ascend wall and bridge onwards.
  4. Traverse R-wards, then exit straight up.

Dave Fearnley, Sue French, Matt Evrard 1988

26
0
  The bolted line L of MfG

Dave Fearnley

26
0
5X bolts
  On the south face directly facing Rambandit. Climb the arete

Murray Hamilton 1990

26
2.01
4X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  The face to the R of MFG

Murray Hamilton 1990

24
2.01
3X bolts
  Found at the Lh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Ascend the wall and then puulover into a big scoop.

Dave Fearnley 1988

19
0
3X bolts
  Found at on the Rh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Climb the arete.

Dave McLeod 1988

18
0
3X bolts
  Starts R of Sewerslide. Climb up and R-wards following bolts to ramp.

Merv English 1989

24
1.02
3X bolts
  Starts 10m R of Sewerslide. Climb the arete via the layback crack.

John McCallum

17
0
2X bolts
  Found on the large separate block. Start at the NE corner and go L-wards to gain the slab.

Nigel Perry 1989. Simon Middlemass Direct finish.Karen McNeil, Direct start.

22
0
2X bolts
  Uphill side of the Ewe2 boulder. R-ward trending line.

Ton Snelder 1990

16
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
  AT the end of the valley. Climb the chimney crack.

John Allen 1978

22
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Startb at the top of Big Chimney. Clip the bolt then gain some pockets, go straight up or L-wards across the groove to the edge.

John McCallum 1987

27
1.02
  On the Lh-side and near the entrance of Double Dick Canyon.

Peter Taw 1991

22
0
  R of Atomizer. Climb overhung corner, then travers R-wards to pedastal and onwards up the arete

Merv English 1990

16
0
3X bolts
  A short wall and slabby groove on the approach to EE

Merv English 1990

EE
23
1.02
5X bolts
  Approach via the rock path, to starting bolt. Climb the wall to the flared groove then out L-wards onto the slab. Shares the same finish as the Big Chimney.

Merv English

16
0
1X bolts
  Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the Lh-edge.

Merv English 1988

16
0
1X bolts
  Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Goes up the middle

Merv English 1988

18
0
1X bolts
  Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the south side.

Merv English

15
0
2X bolts
  Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb up the L-wards to pocks and carry on upwards.

Merv English 1988

19
1.02
2X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. The middle route.

Sue English 1988

21
0
2X bolts
  Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb the Rh Arete.

Merv English 1988

AP
31
0
3X bolts
  The mono/fingery overhung wall

Eric Talmadge 1991

19
0
Natural gear required
  On the main scarp, uphill from the Big Chimney. Climb the orange Y crack, with your chioce of exit

John Allen 1978

21
2.01
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). The thin slabbish wall to the left of a cave. First bolt used to live under a rock at base of climb and was inserted into the hole on ascent.

Robin Hood 1987

16
2.01
3X bolts
  Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Go up through the boulder cave to the Left of MA through srub onto the lslab above MA to belayer bolts. Climb L-wards then up the arete, and finishing on the slab.

Robin Hood 1987

18
0
4X bolts
  Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Using the same belayer bolts as ToaC. Climb straight up then move R-wards over a small roof.

Robin Hood 1987

20
0
1X bolts
  Found on a boulder opposite MA. Climb the Rh-side of the ledge.

Dave McLeod 1989

21
0
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Climb the yellow wall 40m R of MA

Robin Hood 1988

13
0
Natural gear required
  Climb the chimney to the R of LiaV

Robin Hood 1985

22
1.02
Natural gear required
  The Lh- slanting diagonal crack, to the R of BtC

John Allen 1980

20
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  Downhil from WW. Climb the crack through the overhanging groove

Chris Mansell 1989

24
1.02
Natural gear required
  On the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Very technical.

Dave Fearnley 1988

19
1.02
2X bolts
  On the north side of the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Climb the short slab.

Robin Hood 1987

21
0
2X bolts
  Up the gully opposite SoN and R of the chimney.Climb the pocked wall.

Merv English 1988

16
0
2X bolts
  Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Climb the paralell side feature.

Dave McLeod 1989

16
0
Natural gear required
  Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. An esoteric chimney.

Mark Charlton 1988

24
0
1X bolts
  Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Start up the chimney then head L-wards past the bolt and upm the face.

Matt Evrard 1988

23
0
Natural gear required
  On the NW side of the valley opposite WW. Climb the steep fist crack.

John Allen 1980

23
0
Natural gear required
  The route is in a gully, close to and to the L of EL. Climb the undercling/fist-crack.

John Allen 1980

13
0
3X bolts
  Faces the reserve, L of EL, Ascend the easy slab.

Claire Healing 1988

10
0
Natural gear required
  Climb the yellow chmney that is formed by a blade of rock.

Dave McLeod 1988

23
1.02
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  At the NW end of the Dark Castle. Climb the grey corner.

John McCallum 1989

22
1.02
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  Cliomb the arete to L of DM

Tony Ward-Holmes

24 A1
0
5X bolts
  Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The east facing wall (towards the road)

Tim Wethy 1990

25
2.01
6X bolts
  Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The groove on the north side.

Peter Taw 1990

23
0
4X bolts
Natural gear required
  Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. Rh-side of the north face, climb the crack then move R-wards around the arete, finishing up RA.

Peter Taw 1990

22
2.01
3X bolts
  Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Climb the curve and go letf to the arete at the top.

Peter Taw 1990

20
1.02
3X bolts
  Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Start at scoop and go L-wards or jump start, then upwards and R-wards.

Peter Taw 1990

17
1.02
Natural gear required
  Just R of the tower. Layback up the big rock waffer.

Tim Wethy 1989

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