2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Canterbury
  5. Inland Canterbury
  6. Castle Hill Basin
  7. Castle Hill Kura Tawhiti
  8. Dark Castle

Dark Castle

(59 routes)

The area of boulders to the north of Rambandit Valley.
Recently the area has not been very popular due to being closed.
The routes do not get much traffic and could be slightly greasy, and brushing is not encouraged.
The best climbs to orient yourself on are Rambandit (Rb)

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

The Dark Castle is CLOSED, mainly because it has been part of Castle Hill Station, and overlooks the house. Nothing has changed.
Climbs on the West side of the Rambandit Valley are okay but all other areas of Dark Castle and the Lime Quarry scarp are currently still closed.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Jesus Chrysler 25
1.02
 1bolts
Left of SAYS
Dave Fearnley 1988
Smile as You Sin 25
1.02
 1bolts
The wall to the left of Rt
Pete Smale 1988
Rambandit 21
3
 wire representing trad 2
The handcrack on the north side of the boulder. Generally soloed as the crux is at the bottom
John Allen 1979
You Light up My Liver 19
0
 1bolts
Located in the Rambandit Boulder. Bridge the gully to the pock.
Bryan Moore 1989
Pete Eats Dust 27
0
 1bolts
Nick Sutter 1992
MB Mental Block 24
2.01
 2bolts
Found on the Rh edge of the south side of the Rambandit boulder.
John Allen 1980
Mean Mr Peanut 22
1.02
 1bolts
Found at the upper end of the Rambandit Valley. Climb the rounded arete.
Dave McLeod 1988
Space Race 19
1.02
 1bolts
Use same star as AB. Move L-wards to the pocks and up past the bolt.
Simon Middlemass 1989
Anna Bollocks 19
1.02
 1bolts
Start R of MMP. Carry out short pock crank.
Dave Fearnley 1988
HW Hoodwink 19 ,6 ,23 ,20
1.02
 8bolts 2
Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190m1No
 Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.
260mNo
 Traverse L-wards along the shelf.
3230m4No
 Ascend wall and bridge onwards.
4200m3No
 Traverse R-wards, then exit straight up.
Dave Fearnley, Sue French, Matt Evrard 1988
Wings of Desire 26
0
The bolted line L of MfG
Dave Fearnley
Made from Girders 26
0
 5bolts
On the south face directly facing Rambandit. Climb the arete
Murray Hamilton 1990
Irn Bru 26
2.01
 4bolts
The face to the R of MFG
Murray Hamilton 1990
Headful of Steam 24
2.01
 3bolts
Found at the Lh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Ascend the wall and then puulover into a big scoop.
Dave Fearnley 1988
Sewerslide 19
0
 3bolts
Found at on the Rh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Climb the arete.
Dave McLeod 1988
Pinstripe Clone 18
0
 3bolts
Starts R of Sewerslide. Climb up and R-wards following bolts to ramp.
Merv English 1989
The Lovin' Handful 24
1.02
 3bolts
Starts 10m R of Sewerslide. Climb the arete via the layback crack.
John McCallum
Ewe 2 17
0
 2bolts
Found on the large separate block. Start at the NE corner and go L-wards to gain the slab.
Nigel Perry 1989.
White, No Sugar 22
0
 2bolts
Uphill side of the Ewe2 boulder. R-ward trending line.
Ton Snelder 1990
Big Chimney 16
0
 3bolts wire representing trad
AT the end of the valley. Climb the chimney crack.
John Allen 1978
The Tower 22
1.02
 1bolts wire representing trad
Startb at the top of Big Chimney. Clip the bolt then gain some pockets, go straight up or L-wards across the groove to the edge.
John McCallum 1987
Atomizer 27
1.02
On the Lh-side and near the entrance of Double Dick Canyon.
Peter Taw 1991
Magic Kiwi 22
0
R of Atomizer. Climb overhung corner, then travers R-wards to pedastal and onwards up the arete
Merv English 1990
Baby Bunnies 16
0
 3bolts
A short wall and slabby groove on the approach to EE
Merv English 1990
EE Endangered Earth 23
1.02
 5bolts
Approach via the rock path, to starting bolt. Climb the wall to the flared groove then out L-wards onto the slab. Shares the same finish as the Big Chimney.
Merv English
Wendy's Rasin Loaf 16
0
 1bolts
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the Lh-edge.
Merv English 1988
Cutex Cutie 16
0
 1bolts
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Goes up the middle
Merv English 1988
Super Slipper 18
0
 1bolts
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the south side.
Merv English
New Ninja 15
0
 2bolts
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb up the L-wards to pocks and carry on upwards.
Merv English 1988
Manicure 19
1.02
 2bolts
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. The middle route.
Sue English 1988
Breakfast in Bed 21
0
 2bolts
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb the Rh Arete.
Merv English 1988
AP Angel of Pain 31
0
 3bolts
The mono/fingery overhung wall
Eric Talmadge 1991
I.R.A 19
0
 wire representing trad
On the main scarp, uphill from the Big Chimney. Climb the orange Y crack, with your chioce of exit
John Allen 1978
Mal a l'Aise 21
2.01
 3bolts 3
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). The thin slabbish wall to the left of a cave. First bolt used to live under a rock at base of climb and was inserted into the hole on ascent.
Robin Hood 1987
Tears of a Clown 16
2.01
 3bolts
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Go up through the boulder cave to the Left of MA through srub onto the lslab above MA to belayer bolts. Climb L-wards then up the arete, and finishing on the slab.
Robin Hood 1987
Lycra Lounge Lizards 18
0
 4bolts
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Using the same belayer bolts as ToaC. Climb straight up then move R-wards over a small roof.
Robin Hood 1987
Ernie Falls in Love with Doris 20
0
 1bolts
Found on a boulder opposite MA. Climb the Rh-side of the ledge.
Dave McLeod 1989
Love in the Void 21
0
 3bolts
Climb the yellow wall 40m R of MA
Robin Hood 1988
Bruce the Christian 13
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the chimney to the R of LiaV
Robin Hood 1985
White Wince 22
1.02
 wire representing trad
The Lh- slanting diagonal crack, to the R of BtC
John Allen 1980
The Rainbow 20
0
 3bolts wire representing trad
Downhil from WW. Climb the crack through the overhanging groove
Chris Mansell 1989
Ernie Drops his Pie 24
1.02
 wire representing trad
On the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Very technical.
Dave Fearnley 1988
Sea of Nipples 19
1.02
 2bolts
On the north side of the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Climb the short slab.
Robin Hood 1987
Better Bodies 21
0
 2bolts
Up the gully opposite SoN and R of the chimney.Climb the pocked wall.
Merv English 1988
Total Fitness 16
0
 2bolts
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Climb the paralell side feature.
Dave McLeod 1989
Spitting Buttock 16
0
 wire representing trad
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. An esoteric chimney.
Mark Charlton 1988
Spoondectomy 24
0
 1bolts
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Start up the chimney then head L-wards past the bolt and upm the face.
Matt Evrard 1988
Easy Listening 23
0
 wire representing trad
On the NW side of the valley opposite WW. Climb the steep fist crack.
John Allen 1980
Legal Aid 23
0
 wire representing trad
The route is in a gully, close to and to the L of EL. Climb the undercling/fist-crack.
John Allen 1980
Tranquility of Solitude 13
0
 3bolts
Faces the reserve, L of EL, Ascend the easy slab.
Claire Healing 1988
Banana Chimney 10
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the yellow chmney that is formed by a blade of rock.
Dave McLeod 1988
Dark Matter 23
1.02
 3bolts
At the NW end of the Dark Castle. Climb the grey corner.
John McCallum 1989
Edge of Darkness 22
1.02
 3bolts wire representing trad
Cliomb the arete to L of DM
Tony Ward-Holmes
Gulf Crisis 24 A1
0
 5bolts
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The east facing wall (towards the road)
Tim Wethy 1990
Razzamatazz 25
2.01
 6bolts
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The groove on the north side.
Peter Taw 1990
Energy Crisis 23
0
 4bolts wire representing trad
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. Rh-side of the north face, climb the crack then move R-wards around the arete, finishing up RA.
Peter Taw 1990
Radial Action 22
2.01
 3bolts
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Climb the curve and go letf to the arete at the top.
Peter Taw 1990
Torso 20
1.02
 3bolts
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Start at scoop and go L-wards or jump start, then upwards and R-wards.
Peter Taw 1990
Sssnap! 17
1.02
 wire representing trad
Just R of the tower. Layback up the big rock waffer.
Tim Wethy 1989

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