Dark Castle

(53 routes)

The high limestone towers on the north of Rambandit Valley have some excellent long routes although they are now almost never climbed. Careful washing would be needed on almost all the routes before climbing would again be possible.

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

This is a special part of Kura Tawhiti Reserve that has predator fencing – please shut the gates! Avoid climbing any of the routes that overlook the farm house.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Mean Mr Peanut 22
1.02
1bolts
Found at the upper end of the Rambandit Valley. Climb the rounded arete.
Dave McLeod 1988
Space Race 19
1.02
1bolts
Use same star as AB. Move L-wards to the pocks and up past the bolt.
Simon Middlemass 1989
Anna Bollocks 19
1.02
1bolts
Start R of MMP. Carry out short pock crank.
Dave Fearnley 1988
HW Hoodwink 19 ,6 ,23 ,20
1.02
8bolts 2
Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190m1No
 

Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.

260mNo
 

Traverse L-wards along the shelf.

3230m4No
 

Ascend wall and bridge onwards.

4200m3No
 

Traverse R-wards, then exit straight up.

Dave Fearnley, Sue French, Matt Evrard 1988
Wings of Desire 26
1.02
A technical route that still remains unrepeated
Dave Fearnley
Made from Girders 26
1.02
5bolts
An old Dave Fearnley project.On the south face directly facing Rambandit. Climb the arete.
Murray Hamilton 1990
Irn Bru 26
2.01
4bolts
A good summer pocket pull
Murray Hamilton 1990
Headful of Steam 24
2.01
3bolts
Found at the Lh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Ascend the wall and then puulover into a big scoop.
Dave Fearnley 1988
Sewerslide 19
0
3bolts
Found at on the Rh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Climb the arete.
Dave McLeod 1988
Pinstripe Clone 18
0
3bolts
Starts R of Sewerslide. Climb up and R-wards following bolts to ramp.
Merv English 1989
The Lovin' Handful 24
1.02
3bolts
Starts 10m R of Sewerslide. Climb the arete via the layback crack.
John McCallum
Ewe 2 17
0
2bolts
Found on the large separate block. Start at the NE corner and go L-wards to gain the slab.
Nigel Perry 1989.
White, No Sugar 22
0
2bolts
Uphill side of the Ewe2 boulder. R-ward trending line.
Ton Snelder 1990
Big Chimney 16
0
3bolts wire representing trad
AT the end of the valley. Climb the chimney crack.
John Allen 1978
The Tower 22
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Startb at the top of Big Chimney. Clip the bolt then gain some pockets, go straight up or L-wards across the groove to the edge.
John McCallum 1987
Atomizer 27
1.02
1
On the Lh-side and near the entrance of Double Dick Canyon.
Peter Taw 1991
Magic Kiwi 22
0
R of Atomizer. Climb overhung corner, then travers R-wards to pedastal and onwards up the arete
Merv English 1990
Baby Bunnies 16
0
3bolts
A short wall and slabby groove on the approach to EE
Merv English 1990
EE Endangered Earth 23
1.02
5bolts
Approach via the rock path, to starting bolt. Climb the wall to the flared groove then out L-wards onto the slab. Shares the same finish as the Big Chimney.
Merv English
Wendy's Rasin Loaf 16
0
1bolts
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the Lh-edge.
Merv English 1988
Cutex Cutie 16
0
1bolts
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Goes up the middle
Merv English 1988
Super Slipper 18
0
1bolts
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the south side.
Merv English
New Ninja 15
0
2bolts
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb up the L-wards to pocks and carry on upwards.
Merv English 1988
Manicure 19
1.02
2bolts
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. The middle route.
Sue English 1988
Breakfast in Bed 21
0
2bolts
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb the Rh Arete.
Merv English 1988
AP Angel of Pain 31
0
3bolts
The mono/fingery overhung wall
Eric Talmadge 1991

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Boulder Rambandit Boulder (6 routes)
Crag Beyond Dark Castle (21 routes)

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UUID: 
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