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South West Ridge, Middle Pk

First ascent
Barry Smith, Jim Wilson, John Harrison, David Stone, Tom Bates, Maurice Sheehan, March 1959
Located on

From Veil Bivouac, head up Veil Stream and follow the Clover Glacier to gain the ridge at the prominent col between the Middle Peak and Helmet Peak. An easier route may be to climb direct to Orb Col from the junction of Veil Stream and the Havelock River, and then sidle Helmet Peak on its north side. Depending on conditions, either choose a route from the small glacier west of the peak or follow the north-west side of the South West Ridge on generally good rock.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2