|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start just right of gully, climb up then move right onto face and up. Face is sound, few runners. Up easy ground tending a little left to belay bolts on main ledge.
From belay on ledge move right to belay bolts on face. Route climbs straight up from face belay. A bolt on the face is passed on its left. Up and right to gain the left- facing corner where cracks take runners. Up and right round corner, up to belay bolts beneath overhang.
Climb overhang past 2B. Continue up left- facing corner (1B near top). Then up and tending right towards big left- facing corner. 1B in this corner marks the point to traverse right around onto face. Then up to belay bolts.
Sustained. 11B. Straight up to 1st bolt. Above 1st bolt is a cam placement, then move left up to 2nd bolt. left and up to the 3rd bolt, then straight up face passing bolts. There are two wire placements at obvious points where bolts are spaced. At top of pitch move left to belay bolts. Use nut pick to remove wires.
Climb easy face straight up to belay bolts on top.
Three moderate pitches to reach a stunning full rope-length on the smooth diamond-shaped slab, with just one jug at about two-thirds height. Then a short final pitch to reach abseil bolts. Take plenty of quickdraws.
15 ,16 ,20 ,24 ,10
Bill McLeod, David Newstead, 1992