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The Hourglass Has Turned

Natural pro required
First ascent
Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff, March 2016

Sustained climbing, spaced protection, immaculate rock.
P1 - 50m (16) Start on right hand edge of overhangs. Up vegetated terrain to
rib and onto face above. Traverse left to belay in second groove. Excavation
of protection was required on this pitch.
P2 - 45m (16) up groove to shallow right corner. Belayed below roof.
P3 - 10m (10) Traversed left, belayed in the 'Hourglass Right' groove.
P4 - 50m (19) Traverse right then straight up through roof. Heading right up
shallow cracks which are fused and rounded higher up.
P5 - 20m (19) Right hand side of shallow recessed corner
P6 - 25m (17) Bridging up twin cracks then step right to corner and up to
large ledge.
P7 - 30m (18) The sneaky groove through the roof. Traverse left along ledge
to an awkward belay on wall above.
P8 - 50m (17) Traversing right following cracks, through a small corner
chimney then up onto large ledge. Belay in top left corner
P9 - 30m (15) Traverse right then up right leaning crack to scree slope.
Walked off by traversing right.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 300m
  • Trad